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Heeelp! Tried to adjust external governor/lever position - Internal governor position seems to have changed/slipped. Won't return to original position. Engine goes straight to very high rpm. What to do??

So how to get 3600 rpm? Governor holding it at 3000 rpm

My friend has a Ferris 400S Series Zero Turn Mower. Fitted with a new (now 13 hrs) B&S 25 HP, Model 44T977, engine. He feels that it does not seem to have the power/cut speed of the original 23 HP engine. I have checked the engine speed: No Load is 3060 rpm Cutter deck engaged but not cutting...

Sorry if this has been mentioned, earlier (several pages would not open for me). Torque is a measure of the ability to do work - GYM 123 put it very well. Combustion chamber capacity (cc or cu") is but one component of the engines' ability to deliver torque. Most of the old B&S yellow...

Sorry no - Forum image upload to restrictive

TobyU "The beam types are easy to keep calibrated and are the most likely to be and stay accurate. I used to use them to check and calibrate the clickers." Thanks for that - I have a beam type that I hardly ever use - next time I need to calibrate, will try your KISS! :devilish: StarTech...

Up until CV 19, I was doing a good trade in reconditioned ride on mowers, pumps, brush cutters, generators and compressors (most given to me as non goers). All of a sudden couldn't sell one, even at a price that just covered parts.

As a temporary measure , you could try bypassing the fuel pump and see if the engine runs on gravity feed only (might have to fill the fuel tank). If engine runs well, then the carb flooding problem is elsewhere.

Felt sorry for him - discounted by 50% (won't get rich any time soon) :devilish:

Not just extras $$ on tools also weird fastener (nuts/bolts/screws) sizes in Imperial. Check out aviator grade fasteners - keep your exposure short - too long and you will definitely go insane. Even those who use it all the time need to refer to charts & gauges to know for sure what fastener...

In my humble opinion, all Imperial measurements are the Devils Work - organically derived over hundreds of years. Illogical & confusing. Why anyone wants to stick with it is beyond my comprehension. GO METRIC!!!!

I have just replaced the stinking mess (oil) that came out if a Tuff Torq K46 V with full synthetic, Penrite HPR 10, 10W-50 motor oil. No word from the customer at this time but hope it will give the, 30+ year old , mower a few more operating hours.

Slomo - Product name? Web page ? Your experience ?

I have one, expensive, hopefully accurate, torque wrench. Several chepos and two of the digital adapter style. When I have a torque job, I "calibrate" the wrench I am going to use, against the expensive one and go to work. Note: The digital adapters do not "click/break" but do have a rising...

"Sorry, "synthetic" is an advertising gimmick to charge a higher price. All oils are a majority of base oil products with additives." You are only partly correct. Try reading this article - https://www.caranddriver.com/research/a32879214/synthetic-oil/

Took me well over an hour, with compressed air wand, to clean the crud from this mower. Even then there was more cleaning, after I got the transaxle out. My own equipment (I have 5 ride-ons, two push mowers, several chainsaws & brushcutters and fire pumps) are thouroughly cleaned with...

I would if it was my mower BUT here is a short list of what needs doing ; Extensive corrosion and paint loss Transaxle cooling fan broken Drive belt needs replacing Left cutter deck spindle bearings worn out Left front wheel bearings worn out Tyres don’t hold pressure Engine in need of a major...

Thanks Craftsman but no. The list of defects on this ride-on would cost the owner thousands, for me to repair. Different story If I owned/was given the old girl, then my labour is not factored in. Got her going this afternoon - seemed to move forward/back okay - don't know what the story...

Have removed transaxle (Tuff Torq K46 V) from mower & drained some really black horrible oil from it. Cooling fan down to 2 blades - won't be doing much to keep the system cool. The whole thing covered in compacted chaff/mud mixture - more heat retention. Surprisingly, the magnet had only a...

"The owners manual says 20w50 motor oil, but I have found a Lucas 20w50 that is meant for transaxels." Please elaborate - in what way is the Lucas oil any diffrent to what he manual is recommending?

Thanks you for your informative replies - This mower has not been well maintained. The owner wants a quick/cheap fix. I have suggested replacing the oil - he has agreed. Will any 20-W 50 full synthetic engine oil do the job or should I be looking at something more specific?

John Deere Sabre with Kholer 17.5 hp engine. This mower must be at least 30 years old. Owner says he purchased it, about 30 years ago, second hand, from a mower repair shop and that they put a brand new engine in it at that time. The mower initially starts runs well and appears to be fully...

I fit fuel shut off taps to all my equipment - makes changing filters so much less messy and prevents that occasional carburettor flooding, that can end up with a crankcase full of fuel/oil mix.

FYI - This Forum is read/contributed too, by people in other countries, where E petrol blends are not mandatory, so not even 10 year old equipment has been converted, let alone 40+years.

Brand & Model: Toro Wheel Horse 17 hp No idea how old, plastic bonnet model - my guess, somewhere between 10-15 years. Used for mowing a large block/garden. This mower was gifted to me with dud engine. Was going to use it for parts BUT Just happened to have a 17 hp Vanguard from another mower on...

Do the Forum members think there is any benefit in changing the hydrodrive/transmission oil on a Toro Wheel Horse 17 hp? (FYI mower performs very well but in the past I have had a hydraulic transmission fail & have always wondered if a timely oil change might have extended its working life)...

Do the Forum members think there is any benefit in changing the hydrodrive/transmission oil on a Toro Wheel Horse 17 hp? (FYI mower performs very well but in the past I have had a hydraulic transmission fail & have always wondered if a timely oil change might have extended its working life)...

Use a filter funnel - holds back the trash & any free water, from entering your tank, in the first instance. Use a "plastic" fuel can with a good top seal - no rust, ever!.

Why do you use "stabilizer" - its only beneficial when you intend to store the machine/fuel for an extended period.

What has inside/outside got to do with atmospheric water vapour entering an unsealed fuel tank/container - as a general rule the only common way to reduce water vapour (humidity) in a room/shed is by using an air conditioner.

Agreed! - I look forward to our next joust with great anticipation.

Peva, Not you being "hopeful/jingoistic" - the promoters of the system. I thought again on comparing a full fuel tank of car v mower - its likly to be the ratio of surface area to volume, available for evaporation, rather than just volume. The modern car having the addition of some control...

Oaky - all sound a bit hopeful/jingoistic to me. I don't disagree. I get the principal just not the practicalities. Question effectiveness to effectiveness -especially if following practise not observed. The fuel companies advice to me, regarding fuel going off/stail, is fill to 75 % or better...

Peva, Basic physics can not be avoided - the fuel tank must be subject to pressure equalisation, as the fuel level drops/atmospheric/diurnal changes occur - otherwise it will either collapse or attempt to expand (subject to construction limitations). Atmospheric air and with it water vapour is...

Peva, "But for me, it explained in particular why lawnmowers and other smaller engine devices don't tolerate aged ethanol fuel, whereas old ethanol fuel doesn't seem to bother running/starting quality of car" Free water in fuel is rare, if sourced from a reputable supplier with a high...

I do not use ethanol blended fuel. The above statement is a personal choice, not a support of all the BS about E blend fuels. ## Modern engined will & do run just fine on E fuel - fact! Most if not all engine makers have switched over to ethanol tolerant fuel system materials. ## Older engined...

That's an appalling opinion. What has age got to do with it? Mower works well but I would like it to look straight. It's a plastic bonnet, so most likly under 10 years old - I also have a metal bonnet Wheel Horse (thats nice a straight) that also works very well and far better built than...

I was taught that most engine oils are engineered to operate efficiently between 90-110 degrees Centigrade. Also its good for the oil to go over 100C, for a sustained period (say 15-30 mins), so as to drive off volatile contaminants eg water, fuel, by products of combustion. On engines fitted...

Thanks ILENGINE Twist seems to be between seat and front axle but hard to be sure, without a complete dismantle. Could be in body or in frame or both. Have no idea of how someone could do this but did come from a very hilly/steep property and owner seems to have been somewhat rough on the poor...

Where of all the experts gone, long time in replying???????? :devilish:

I rescued a 17 hp Toro Wheel Horse. Got everything to work very well but has an annoying (doesn't effect mowing performance, deck adjusted to compensate) twisted look when viewed from the front. So far haven't found where the twist actually is - assume chassis. Thoughts & suggestions on a fix...

Some older engines fuel metering & supply systems will be damaged by ethanol in the fuel.- - do not use ethanol blends. Many modern engines will run just fine on ethanol blends (see owners manual for recommendations). Long Term Storage (in excess of 2 months) If there is any danger of fuel...

This is the Service manual ; https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/20_690_01_EN.pdf It certainly sounds like a fuel supply problem - can you remove the fuel hose connection to the bottom of the tank. The tank may have a coarse filter or non either way it could be...

I would add, to the above, idler spring tension, may be too loose. Blade impacts and even engine stop/start from high rpm (eg in work, lift bum of seat, engine dies, bum back down, engine suddenly kicks back into life)

I am a retired agricultural scientist/farmer - Water filling of tyres as ballast is an old fashioned cheap trick, that should not be used on modern tractors. Modern tractors are: Designed with well researched weight distribution Require a certain degree of wheel slip to protect gears and...

I fit ALL my ride ones with a manual fuel shut off. Saves all those concerns about overflow into crankcase and avoids fuel spills when cleaning float bows/removing carb.

Star Tech - Cant see how the adapters would be a significant help - may speed refilling (a little) but how to judge that transmission full? Likely to end up with a spill/big mess. Anyhow wasn't a big problem - Not like I will be doing this on a frequent basis and the system I was working on...

Job done! & mower returned to service. Even though its a Hydro-Gear transmission, it was cheaper to purchase Ferris/B&S OM fan. New 25HP engine, full service front to back - so far going very well. Transmission a real pain in the rear to refill - took best part of two days to percolate in. As...

B & S 25 hp Pro Commercial - comes with an oil cooler. Cooled from air blast, coming from cowling. Fitted one two weeks ago.

No mulching kit is worth the money - with the exception of people who mow their lawn, at very short/frequent interval, mower mulching kits/systems, are a marketing con.