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Even with the walk behind smaller battery powered mowers, they are a major sacrifice for most people causing them to severely modify their long-term mowing behavior. There is simply no way the current batteries on the market will last as long as a gasoline engine will last. I'll keep in...

Even with the walk behind smaller battery powered mowers, they are a major sacrifice for most people causing them to severely modify their long-term mowing behavior. There is simply no way the current batteries on the market will last as long as a gasoline engine will last. I'll keep in...

Well you've got a cable that when you push your top lever down and then go to pull it up will be under tension so if that still feels normal then it's likely your belt or the pulley in The idler assembly underneath. Just take the plastic cover off from underneath but try to soak the bolts well...

Spending all that money for a Briggs & Stratton OEM head that puts you right back to where you started from with a head that is -barely adequate to do the job is not what I call the correct way. Lol It may be an okay way and it could even be correct by briggs standards or others but it...

I completely agree with you. I have no problem with people refusing to work on pulsar mowers or the other off brands. There is also a trend going around by some of these companies that don't have real dealers and don't network to get stuff done or they will tell the customer to get it fixed...

There are several different types of items out there where filters are not readily available or stuff that's so old where filters are no longer available and you just have to make your own. Every time I run across a good piece of foam rubber that looks acceptable to me that's over 3/4 of an inch...

Your assumption is correct that it really doesn't take that long to seat everything in or the rings and such but the bigger risk is leaving the metal shavings and contaminants and all the grit in there for too long. I'm happy some engine manufacturers still tell people to do this the proper way...

I would wait till it was dry enough to ride my zero turn or whatever mower I was using up along fairly close to the middle discharging grass one way, basically cutting half of the ditch then I would come back the other way blowing the grass the other way and then I'd probably have to blow a...

But you took the topic away from where the question was asked and took it into tractor trailers, and automobile engines of the diesel variety. Some of the things you said that are absolute fact like diesels almost always outlive their gasoline counterparts, wow true, that is because these diesel...

I find the whole oil discussion to be a real waste of time and fairly comical went involves lawn mower engines. People running around arguing over and over about which one is best and a lot of people have a lot of bad information but wholeheartedly believe it. I am certain I am guilty of some of...

Good luck finding oil with those levels of zinc. Maybe 1000-1200 or even 1400 if you get lucky but where are you going to find virgin oil out of the bottle with 1500-1800 ppm zinc?

Cool, upon jumping to the latest I see you found the straw and they're holding the valve open and everything is good to go now. Congratulations. It's a shame you had to take the head off but oh well it still will be a good machine for you.

I haven't read the whole thread but of course the first thing you do is to remove the spark plug and look inside to see if the piston is going up and down.. I haven't seen any of these engines with any internal catastrophic failures but it's always possible. If the piston is going up and down...

I have found the best way to find a leak is to take the tire off and submerge it into a body of water. When I had my pool, I would often do this even though it looked kind of funny. Regardless, I don't worry about finding the leaks now. I just use some of the green slime the thick stuff in the...

I haven't read this entire thread but it sounds like you're talking about the evap hose that the wonderful EPA mandated a few years ago which is just a waste of time and money but anyways it goes from the top of the tank and finagles its way to the carburetor and there is a small port on the...

All you ever need to do to find the right parts for your mower or give the right information is to take a picture of the white sticker which is usually underneath or right to the rear of the seat. The two most important things on that are the model number and the serial number. Now for engine...

You will likely still see the original cross hatch in the engine and they probably won't be any scores at all but if you see a few vertical ones as long as there's not five or six around the bore and as long as they're just fairly small and you can't really catch your fingernail in them too much...

You've covered a couple of things and it is usually fuel but here's the best diagnostic procedure I have found. When tomorrow comes in with a no start condition, the first thing you should do is physically look at the safety bail engine stop cable to make sure it is actually pulling when you...

Most of the ones that were going to have the major failure have already self-destructed and are out of circulation that's probably why you haven't seen them. These things kind of go in cycles. It also has to do with the region they're in which affects people's mowing habits and the season. I...

When you say it runs okay or fine with two fingers over the carburetor hole, does it rev up and go to normal full speed of around 3,400 RPMs or do you have to keep the RPMs much lower even with your fingers to get it to run? If it will go up to its normal operating speed above 32 to 3400 when...

This is what I first thought of and recommended in my first post, I didn't read all of the entries.. You should be able to order from eBay or Amazon and if they say the brand name is Briggs & Stratton and they show a picture of the package then hopefully it will be a brand name OEM when it comes...

I don't know why this would really be a concern or it could be prevented by making sure you buy the Briggs & Stratton brand part number that comes back to that engine. I wouldn't buy an aftermarket push rod for these. When they come out of a sealed Briggs & Stratton package with the correct part...

I always clean up the heads and they block service very well with a scraper and some Scotch Brite pad sometimes and then I always tighten in the Briggs recommended tightening order in two or three steps and I always use an accurate inch pound torque wrench and tighten to the current Briggs &...

I'm just glad you got it fixed. I have certainly seen Stihl ignition coils that had a timing issue. In fact there was a TSB or something on this a number of years ago. They would run but they were hard to start and they certainly wouldn't run well with stuttering and stammering and what felt...

This isn't a guessing game game show. If you've already fixed it and know what the problem was then tell the whole story up front. Many of us don't have time or enjoy the carrot game. We come here to help people fix problems they can't figure out or two tell them what they're doing wrong or what...

I have a feeling we don't have all the information or if we would have been there as a fly in the wall watching we would have spotted something that we would have been concerned about or said you shouldn't do. Sure, sometimes weird things happen without any good reason but when you've worked on...

I haven't read every post in this thread but I can tell you that it is highly, highly, highly and I mean again highly unlikely for a valve to drop on one of these engines unless somebody has been monkeying around in the valve cover and with stuff they shouldn't be messing with. I saw in a...

That's what happens when they run to fast. Grenaded governor. NEVER adjust a governor with engine running or try to adjust or increase speed by loosening and moving gov position. ALWAYS do static governor adjustment ( throttle plate all the way as far open as it gets and gov shaft all the way...

You're right. The beam types are easy to keep calibrated and are the most likely to be and stay accurate. I used to use them to check and calibrate the clickers. You don't have to unload the adjustment each time and you can drop them and not worry about them being off of the needle is on zero...

Sure there is. We blast these cheaply made, underpowered, short run time crappy battery mowers and more and more people who try them have buyer's remorse and decide they want a gas mower. THIS is what many people want to happen. They don't want battery to "be the future". People will do lots of...

Yes, I've done it before on the tailgate of a customer's pickup truck in their driveway and from the time we rolled the lawn mower out of his garage, took the engine off, popped the bottom sump off, cleaned everything out, cleaned off all the old gasket stuck to both sides, replace the camshaft...

The order for the diagnosis got all messed up here. Throwing Parts at it like replacing the fuel pump thinking it's going to fix the problem hardly ever does so you should never replace a part until you're absolutely certain or really close to certain that is bad. Should have done more research...

Glad that worked for you but I refuse to deal with equipment manufacturers because normally it's just a waste of time. Even if the companies do technically have the information -somewhere- the likelihood of speaking to a person who can find that information is very small. So, in my experience...

I'm not fact-checking anything!! It's not our responsibility. This is why I make all my suggestions with certain keywords that let me off the hook. Saying things like "depending on the mounting design, you may be able to...." Allows me to make a suggestion and reference what I have done many...

Deleting that and not post any further comments or help would make you the one that can dish it out but can't take it. You have given a lot of great information on this forum but we are not required to conduct ourselves the way you want us to or by whatever standards you want to have. It was...

Absolutely! I just wrote another big one about this because it brushed me the wrong way too. It is not your responsibility to research or even bother considering what model number it is if you don't know exactly how that engine looks off the top of your head before you give advice or recommend...

What he should have said was IF there's room to drill through and put a nut on top. Lol This would have eliminated the problem of him being wrong. -I wish- there weren't so many people on social media and in forums that are just chomping at the bit to pull the "GOTCHA" to tell someone...

Because we don't put an overpriced plug into an engine that is not giving us any higher quality for that price. In fact it gives us extra aggravation due to the non standard size. I refuse to use them - just because I can.

I've been using dcpr6e ngk stock number 3481 since these engines came out.

Yes but I wouldn't have a Kohler plug in my engine even if it is an XT series engine because they use the wrong size hex head! Lol That was an absolute arrogant, jerk move on their end.

Use whichever one you like. Frankly, heat range makes little to no difference on these engines. You will notice that Honda takes the same 140 and 160 engine and some come with a BPR6Es and others come with a bpr5es which is one heat range hotter. I think I looked up one time and found that one...

Some of those things you say can be true in certain situations but it feels like a lot of Doom and gloom. Lol Also, there is no need for a "really good" fuel stabilizer like startron which is more expensive. Plain old traditional red Sta-bil is what I've been using commercially for almost 14...

You were told wrong. Lol While it may have been someone's personal opinion that it was a waste of time to use sta-bil in ethanol fuel or their point was you'd be better off to get ethanol free fuel and I don't know whether or not they're wanting you to put sta-bil in that or not but the fact is...

Put the comp tester back into the toolbox. It's just not needed. I have fixed 1000s of mower engines and have never screwed one into one. Well, not at the first time when I realized they are not like cars. The only tester you need is your finger If it blows it out nicely, it has enough...

First of all, messing with the governor and adjusting its static adjustment is one of the LAST things you ever do to one of these small engines if it's having a running problem, surging or hunting. Pretty much all of these surging issues are not the governor but rather the carburetor is slightly...

New doesn't mean right... Especially with eBay and even more so amazon carbs. I NEVER recommend replacing carbs as opposed to cleaning it the old ones or fixing them because sometimes the new ones don't run correctly and you are almost always installing a worse quality carb than you are taking...

If it goes back to running but surging and hunting for a proper speed, take you a shot cloth or a microfiber towel and fold it into fourths and lay it for it restricts the intake hole under the air filter. This should reaching up the mixture a little bit or you can also try moving your lever to...

That is a very odd situation if it's that inconsistent. I have never seen one of these that wants the camshaft lobe slipped, that would ever run anywhere near properly or even continue to spend enough to call it running after this happened. It's pretty much like when one gets a bent push rod or...

True but if you adjust the end so it doesn't have so much slack before it actually starts to open the choke and if you lubricate the bottom near the spring area and make sure it's not rubbing against on either side as it moves, they become quite consistent with their opening and closing.

We call that the compression release bump or the ACR bump. The camshaft has an automatic compression release built on to it very close to the intake lifter lobe. At low RPMs it kicks a small little finger out which protrudes out past the base circle of the camshaft in the spot where it's...