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System is likely overloaded. Demand times are heavy mid-day too late evening it seems.

The shields are there to keep clutter and buildup out of the components. Aside from that, they protect idiots from getting caught up in the moving components. Your previous mower likely had them removed, because belt safety guards have been mandatory since at least the late 50's "Palaver"...

The original factory filter is in the tank line connector portion; they did not originally have an inline filter as I recall. They were a crafty hidden small pencil tip filter design. The other possibility is the filler cap small air vent hole is plugged with dust/dirt.

Check out e-replacement parts or Jack's small engine online. You will need the numbers off of the engine label on the air shroud. These engines were used on many different mowers, https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=LTX+1040&mid=352DDF1DF394084A22BE352DDF1DF394084A22BE&FORM=VIRE

I only recommend non ethanol if you can get it in your area. Otherwise, use a mid-grade fuel from Shell or Exxon because it lasts longer if the machine sits. Avoid cheap budget fuel.

They are 20A but use a good quality fuse from a parts store. "White label" cheap bulk fuses are not reliable. If you keep blowing a fuse when hot that is an early sign of the PTO clutch failing. The most common problem that "pops" a fuse is jump starting off of a vehicle battery. The inrush of...

Ebay is your friend. Locate the product ID number label so you have the numbers handy, then check Ebay for a manual or a CD copy with all the service and repair data for your machine. Beware: Online E-manuals are often incomplete or just plain wrong for the model applications. Go with the...

New rider mowers cost more than a used car these days, parts are hardly available after 5 years, but customers keep buying "new" for the feel of it more than the reality of the "throw away" trend they have created. Push and self-propelled mowers are having catastrophic failures after only one...

It would help to know exactly what machine this engine is on. Right off the bat, I can say there is likely a globule of water slurry hanging around in the bottom of the fuel tank. That stuff collects over years and just slumbers around in the bottom of fuel tanks. The fuel tank is not easy to...

What makes you think this is a JD tiller? MTD or AYP made most of the tiller chassis as I recall. JD only made larger ones for AG tractor use.

They look normal for one season around my area because of regular droughts and lots of sand in the area.

Hello Backfired, Remove the air cleaner parts and check the choke plate for sticking partially closed. I dealt with that problem on my own CV-20 last week. The cross bolt for the choke activation lever was stiff and had dirt buildup preventing the lever from operation properly. The pivot bolt...

With this kind of issue, the first thing I verify is that the spark plug is genuine and correct for the application. Copycat/fake spark plug are a common issue these days. The next possibility is a possible flywheel key being partially sheared because the mower hit something, but not hard...

Hi Star Tech, When it comes to customers, I refer to what can only be described as the "drive thru syndrome". People often want cheap and quick, or what they consider should be free under warranty. Small engine repair has been a steadily dying trade around my area. I quit taking drive up...

Hello All, One of the most frustrating fasteners to deal with can be an Allen head retainer screw. They are often recessed down deep into the holes of pulleys and control handles. Soaking overnight with "Panther Piss" helps but can often take days to creep into the rust and soften it. Much...

Another issue to consider when buying used plugs (resistor type), even slightly used is risky due to an unknown history or any rough handling. Plugs are rather tough, but if they are dropped on a concrete floor hard or multiple times, there is a high risk that the resistor pellet has been...

I have dealt with this in both small engine and automotive applications. Most modern spark plugs are made with a resistor pellet inside the porcelain segment. The resistor has to be correct for the spark plug to work correctly. One solution is to make sure you have genuine plugs or use...

Sounds like a search on Ebay for a good use engine might be a solution. Stay with a similar Kohler CV 12.5S spec 1211 engine. If you are not accustomed to readapting a different make of engine, this would not be a time to learn the hard way These engines were installed on many brands of...

Hello Brian, I don't use the pull the oil fill cover/ cap to determine a small engine has an issue with excess blowby. Why? because these small engines don't have very much crankcase area displacement like vehicle engines. Aside from that, if you had excess blowby, you would not be reading 150...

I am referring to the metal tins that surround the outer cylinder fins. Much of this depends on how dusty the condition is when moving. Around my area there is a lot of loose sand and dirt, but people mow at full throttle, and it looks like a small tornado.

I am referring to the metal tins that surround the outer cylinder fins. Much of this depends on how dusty the condition is when moving. Around my area there is a lot of loose sand and dirt, but people mow at full throttle, and it looks like a small tornado.

Sounds like you are motivated to get this thing back up a running good. Motivation will also require patience and attention to detail. A Briggs and Stratton printed manual would come in handy that covers this series engine. Ebay has them. This sounds like the priority is the fuel supply...

Go to the home tab at the top of the page, click on it and the drop down will show many 2 stroke brands and forums.

Excess carbon in the combustion chamber or the muffler was coked up with carbon deposits.

It sounds like you have a fuel issue. Start at the fuel tank and work your way from there. Debris will collect in the fuel nipple over year of use where the line connects. Next would be the fuel lines and inline filter. Aged fuel lines get rigid and will come apart internally. I recommend only...

I know you have removed the top shroud, but what about the cover tins over the cylinders to make sure they are not packed full of dirt and chaff? I've seen too many have a clean topside and the fins were packed solid. As I recall, B&S had a number of overheat issues with this design. Next...

There is no mysterious electrical problem lurking. Simple... Tell the owner to shut the fuel off and let it run itself until shut down. The way it sounds, he is set in thinking the key is the correct way, but it is not. It's not like a vehicle. Running the carburetor dry to shut it down will...

This is an older engine, I would guess around the early 80's or older. The model a type numbers are stamped in the top cover (flywheel shroud). Usually on the very back above the head, or on one side. Let's resolve one post, call it fixed then move on to the second one. Get rid of the...

What engine did you remove? Make, model? John Deere installed several different ones on the "D" series riders. Sounds like you went to a larger horsepower engine. They do have a bigger crankshaft typically. You need an engine with the same crankshaft dimensions as the original engine so...

First, I recommend you disconnect the spark plug, then lift the front and have a helper stand on the handle to keep it up. Inspect the blade for being badly bent on the outer end of one portion (it will be obvious if it is). If it is, not only is the blade bent, but the flywheel shear key will...

That is a bit overkill and 10W40 is actually too heavy for most climate conditions. I recommend you use what the manufacturer suggests. Most require 10W30 and change at regular intervals.

The start key has to be in the on position and it may take several times pulling on the starter rope for it to finally come to life. Being a 9000W unit, it will take quite a bit of effort to get enough starting RPM. Next option would be to remove the air cleaner and give it a short spray of...

Way too much sand in my area, I seldom sharpen blades. Most have the lift area sandblasted badly or they are starting to crack. Even if they could be sharpened, they would not be safe enough to keep using them. Ebay to the rescue for most of my blade needs unless the customer wants to pay big...

Hello Zue, You are falling victim to the times of a dying trade. I've been working small engine equipment since the 70's off and on but never relied on it as a primary means of survival. I only perform small engine equipment repairs as a "sideline" to minor automotive repair and diagnostics...

Remove the shrouds and clean the fins regularly. As I recall, B&S has a bulletin to do that for these engines. Aside from that, use the correct weight oil for the temperature conditions.

I recommend shutting it down using the fuel cut off valve. I've dealt with too many headaches with anti-backfire valves over the years. Modern fuels gum them up, especially if they sit for long periods in hot weather. (I'm in South Texas) Personally, I removed the pintle tip off of everyone...

CO is a quiet way to die in your sleep. Never take chances. I don't particularly like the CO devices because they are unreliable. (I call them an advertising gimmick and a false sense of safety.) I hope your 35ft line to the house is at least a 6ga. If not, you are dropping a lot of Amperage...

Sounds like fuel can trash blocking the tank nipple or the inner rubber of the fuel cap is coming apart and is now got bits of it in the tank. If you have to run it with the choke on, there is a fuel starvation issue.

Look at the depth of the threads in the cylinder heads to match up the appropriate spark plugs thread length. Some heads had a thicker design to allow for better heat dissipation and durability. All shroud and debris covers must be on the engine for proper cooling from the flywheel fan.

The strangest one I have had was a John Deere Z 225 zero turn that had a manual fuel shut off installed at the top of the saddle tank. I could mow with it about 15-20 minutes and then it would gradually starve for fuel. I did not notice the valve at first, but after watching close I discovered...

You would be better off searching Ebay for a used core engine, a 130000 was a 3-4HP flat head engine used on many machines. There is even a chance a local small engine shop has a couple of these laying around that are still useable. You would spend an incredible amount of money just to tool up...

That hose is simply and excess vapor hose and should not affect the running of the engine. You can plug it off and the engine should still run normally. I think you have more than just this minor hose to worry with. Most likely the carburetor needs to be cleaned and the fuel replaced if it has...

Stabil does nothing for the Ethanol, it only keeps the gasoline portion from oxidizing. High contents of Ethanol will collect moisture and that will corrode aluminum carburetor badly. Moisture in the air collects like dew during frequent climate changes. How the equipment is stored or not...

Just use the correct premix or premium fuel or non-ethanol fuel with the regular Stihl oil. Synthetic is an advertising gimmick to make more money in this situation. It's not a daily driver car or the space shuttle. If it does have to sit for a long period, empty the fuel and run it out of fuel.

Keep it simple, use a rag and a blow nozzle to apply very low-pressure air to the crankcase oil fill. A leak will present itself. You will see it or hear it.

Don't mess with the governor. That is not an adjustment to be tinkered with. Did a tension spring come off down below the carburetor? Is the idle adjustment screw set too far out? Did you replace the intake seals to the heads and gaskets as needed? Is this an Amazon or Ebay copycat...

First thought is loosening the muffler and see if it will fire up. Bugs love to build nests inside these mufflers. For mufflers like this, I usually heat them red hot with a torch to burn out the carbon residue and any nests that build up over time. If air cannot get out, air cannot get in...

Hi Trout bum, Check out Ebay, there are always flywheels posted on there.

Hello Hammermechanicman, Yes, the magnet is needed to quickly "energize" the coil. The points then break the magnetic field so the energy collapses and fires the coil secondary to the plug.

Sounds to me the coil or the plug is failing when hot. Put the correct plug in it and see if it works like it should. If it fails again immediately check for no spark while it is hot. If no spark, the coil is suspect. On a side note, make sure you oil is clean and full. Last but not least is...