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Does it smoke when running ? Does it idle rough or run rough at all speeds ? Has anything been done to the machine prior to this ?

If it's a safety switch you wouldn't even get a click. it sounds like a bad ground connection or battery connection . Clean everything and try again.

Here is the parts diagram for the one I worked on , maybe it will shed some light, I also have the parts list for it if you need

Pull it off the machine , bring it to any Kubota dealer and they can show you a breakdown of all the internals and price replacement parts, you may find something on ebay as to a used gearbox - I'll be willing to bet a new replacement box would be costly .

No way is this a good Idea.

Going to need more information like model , year etc. If it's the one I'm thinking about , it can be rebuilt - I've done a couple of them - Parts have to come from Kubota - gears, bearings, seals a shaft if necessary. post a few pics as well .

Fixing it is doable but finding out why is more important ,this is a major failure that rarely happens

Jack it up and try the shifter and watch the drive belt / pullys to figure out where the problem is ,

All types of oil have a spec sheet , your owners manual will specify what your machine requires, There will be something compatible

I ran into this with the same engine, I think there is a design flaw on this model , mine threw the rod and busted the crankcase.

There are safety switches on each of the leavers you mentioned

Clean the carb

Better look at the fuel supply side , hoes etc. drop fuel supply into a fresh container of fuel and see what happens

check your belt

Look at the spec sheet on both, mainly the footprint / mounting bolts , shaft size etc.

what size is the largest one ? If it's under 2 inches in diameter , the O ring kit will probably have it

Not sure what size the o rings are but an O ring kit may have one you can replace it with , I've had to build o rings in the past with o ring stock and superglue when push comes to shove

Pull the motor and remove the seal, there should be a number on it for replacement , I'd get 2 so you'll have a spare

By the bottom are you referring to the crankshaft ? is the piston going up and down ? , Pull the spark plug and watch your piston to see if it's moving, it should roll very easy with no compression , you can put a rod through the plug hole and watch it move with the piston , if no movement you...

Will it roll 360 degrees in any direction ?

I worked on one and found the drive motors were missing some bolts, throwing belts and stuff, maybe look at your mounting hardware in that area

So it does not turn over ? or doesn't start ? two different problems for the help you need

Sounds like ignition switch issue, after the starter is engaged it should return to ON position and retain power to the ignition coils , they're not expensive to replace

Drain and change your oil first, if there's gas in the filter, there's gas in the sump too. Can only get in there from the carburator as far as I am aware. You should see higher than normal oil level when gas is present. Sometimes this happens when your machine is sitting over night or for a...

If the flywheel key is only slightly sheared , it aint starting

Not sure there is any air / fuel ration adjustment but I agree with Slomo assessment, be sure your air cleaner is clean also. Running rich will not give you blue smoke in my opinion, running rich will not run well at all and will be struggling to keep at idle too.

If you have a bent push rod , there's a reason , you need to pull the head and look at the piston.

Does it surge under load when cutting Grass or just running at idle

Does your Idler pully float or is it stuck in one position

I run them in with an Impact

Sounds like you're pretty handy with this type of work, Let us know what it ends up being

If it runs good with no load it's doubtful you have a fuel or carburator problem, You need to look at the linkage to the governor first , maybe a spring is missing or the linkage is off , when a load is put on the machine the governor should react and maintain the rpms. Make sure you have good...

I ran across a similar issue ended up changing both coils , turns out it had been running on only one coil for a while and when the only good coil failed , it gave the impression that both coils failed at the same time which would be a strange coincidence .

Maybe some trash or debris in the carb area and it cleared up , small gas engines can be fickle

If it will not start with starting fluid , it's not a fuel problem , better look elsewhere

Better look at your blades and see if there's anything wrapped up in there for it to shut your machine down.

Not sure thread size but it's a machine thread with an o ring if I remember correctly, when you unplug it , it returns back into the seat which shuts off fuel, it take voltage to retract the plunger and allow fuel to get into the carb bowl. It appears it works for start up but might be loosing...

The plunger stops it from backfiring when you kill the machine I think , I removed mine when trouble shooting the same problem and experienced this. Good way to test though

Might just be the solenoid if the power is constant and clicking continues

The Solenoid under the carb should have voltage when the key is turned on , this opens the fuel flow to the carb, sounds like the connection there is faulty, connect a separate 12 volt supply to the solenoid and start the machine, if it runs good then your wire from the key switch to the...

If it was your safety's it would not do anything when you try it, so If I understand you , your machine will start but then dies after running a bit , It sounds like a fuel problem, I had a similar issue and found the fuel supply side was sucking air from a bad hose connection , Drop your...

Lots of know how on this forum, you'll benefit

Has to be a way to get at it , Most only have 2 wire plug , see what yours is

I've removed the brake altogether on mine but that's just me

Ok well if I understand correctly , this engine will turn over as it is with a jumper cable hooked up, this tells me you have a starter problem not a safety switch issue, if a safety switch is holding you out from starting , the jumper wouldn't help. If you pulled the starter and it spins good...

The safety switches are either normally open or closed , you'll need an ohm meter to test , there are several , One on the seat , one on the brake and possibly the clutch pto. maybe a couple of others , How did it run last time you used it ?

Not sure these new carbs can be adjusted other than idle speed , Probably need to pull it and clean it good , might have some debris in the bowl or jets

I get replacement spindles from Amazon , not sure if they'll list your exact spindle but it will show dimensions and you can figure out if it will work from there, shaft size / length ,pully dimensions etc. Bolt pattern as well

I think they're lock nuts , neve torqued them but 80 sounds about right, I usually just use my impact and spin um up

Back side under the mower engine where the main drive belt is , look at it and put your meter on the wires that plug into the clutch, engage the clutch and watch your test light or meter, if it shows voltage and still does not turn the belt , it's probably bad,