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Thanks for all the replies. I found the section in the manual related to adjustments for the governor, idle, choke, etc. I'll tackle it this coming week.

Thanks for the lead Freddie21.

Thanks for the replies folks. Rivets, I’ll look for section 3 and read it closely. If phone apps are inadequate, can you recommend something else. Affordability is a requirement because this will likely be one of those tools used only one time.

I have a Kawasaki FH580V on my Scag Freedom Z. Recently replaced the governor shaft seal along with several other items (nothing with the carb). Starts up and seems to run fine while cool. After mowing a while the engine speeds up "considerably" when I disengage the blades. Even when the...

I recently performed significant work on my 17 year old mower (significant for me). Replaced: starter, breather plate and gasket, upper crankshaft seal, governer shaft seal, clutch, both transaxle filters, refilled with 20-50w oil, fuel filter, engine filter and 10-30w oil. I completed the...

Problem solved - I submitted an online Ox Clutch form asking about the d-spacer. A reply explained that my type of clutch (old and new) does not require the spacer because of its design. A link to an instructional video was provided that explains this. I suggested that their printed...

Why should I return the new clutch when it appears to be exactly like the old one? That's why I'm thinking the repair shop left off the D-Spacer when they replaced the lower shaft seal. The bolt has a lock washer and 1/4" thick spacer/washer that seats against the pulley bearing. When torqued...

After receiving the replacement Ox Clutch (03112-0038) the included installation instructions raise an issue. After reviewing the installation instructions, it appears that my Scag SFZ52 with 19 HP Kawasaki seems to match what Ox Clutch calls "short Crankshaft." The new clutch matches the old...

The Ox Clutch replacement is available on Ebay for $162.95 with free shipping. I guess I'll go for that one. Too bad it has to come all the way from Eugene, OR. My grass and weeds in south Louisiana won't wait so I'll put the old one back on in the meantime. Thanks folks.

I'm baaack... The old clutch came off without any problem. It's an Ogura ma-gt-dx11cu. I see online prices from $300+ to $100+. Of course the lower prices are on Ebay. I've not had any problems (yet) ordering through Ebay, but ... If allowable on this forum, can anyone suggest a source...

Thanks again txmowman.

I've received the correct seal and removed all of the pieces and parts connected to the shaft. Marked the alignment of the shaft arm relative to the shaft arm. Cleaned the shaft thoroughly. None of the videos I've watched say anything about draining the engine oil. Is draining necessary?

Thanks for the heads-up txmowman.

Thanks guys. Hopefully this will be the last leak fix…at least for a little while.

After replacing the upper shaft seal and breather plate and gasket I thoroughly cleaned the oily mess. After mowing a couple of hours I can see a new oily mess from what appears to be a leak at the governor shaft seal. After watching a couple of YouTube videos it doesn't appear to be a...

Overnight the reservoir level dropped about one inch. Obviously this wasn’t going to work so I decided to apply the 3 P rule for stuck bolts - penetrating oil, patience and prayer. Success! Worked for both plugs. Still took a while to complete the fill. My pond almost completely dried up last...

Bearing failure has been my fear. My next fear is attempting to remove this thing. Is the bearing replaceable? I see that new clutches are rather expensive.

Thanks StarTech. This model has only one reservoir, but certainly your suggested process applies. Lots of rain in my area for the next several days, so I have plenty of time for this slow process.

I've removed the two filters and drained all fluid from both sides. Installed new filters. I'm unable to remove either top port plug. I've applied penetrating oil a couple of times and will allow it to (hopefully) work overnight. These plugs require 1/4" hex key, not a socket wrench. I...

Hammermech - thanks for your reply. Because I've seen on various forums that individuals have different understandings for "engaged" and "disengaged" I'm saying powered vs not powered. Belt off Powered - blades turning if belt was on - no noise, pulley turning Not powered - blades stopped if...

A couple of years ago advice from this forum helped me set the air gap on my Ogura clutch on my Freedom Z. Everything seemed fine until recently when I started hearing a loud "scraping" sound seemingly coming from the clutch when the blades are disengaged. No unusual sound when engaged. I...

Thanks StarTech

I found some bolt torque specs for this engine on the web, but not specifically for the breather cover. Can someone provide me with that torque? Thanks

Thanks for the replies folks. I'll proceed with the expectation to begin looking for a new mower.

This topic came up after I started a thread about my starter on this engine. Seemed like a new thread is in order: One or more significant oil leaks have existed for sometime causing quite a mess on the entire upper engine (mostly hidden by the engine cover). Txmowman pointed to the breather...

I had tried a few smacks of the force screw as suggested by StarTech, so after his reenforcing suggestion, I tried a few more and it popped loose. Wow, what a mess underneath. Now to get it cleaned up and to see if I can find the breather cover and see if that's the main cause for this mess...

Not sure what you mean by "pry bar to bias up.."

This is what I've tried. I'll seek another style.

I attached a two jaw puller as suggested. Several doses of PB Blaster. Tightened down and left over night. Doesn't appear to be moving at all. I tried heating the flywheel some with a heat gun. No help. Any other suggestions besides continuing to apply PB Blaster and waiting?

I'm off to see if one available to borrow from O'Reilly's has enough "wingspan" to reach around the 8+" flywheel and if the grab ends will fit into the indentations. Thanks again txmowman.

Any tips as to how I should attempt to remove the flywheel from my Kawasaki FH580v? As you can see in the photo it is held on by bolt, not by nut and there are no holes to attach a wheel puller. I've watched several videos, but none seem to apply to this engine. I'm trying to access the...

Thanks for your suggestions txmowman. The rubber friction washer shows signs of significant wear where it fits the gear spines. Even after thorough cleaning there is no friction between the rubber washer and the metal "washer/collar" below it. That washer will rise when I turn it CW (looking...

Thanks for the quick reply. I've since removed the starter and somewhat cleaned around the areas you noted. I want to avoid possibly making the matter worse, so I haven't used any kind of cleaner. Do you have a recommendation? The metal drive nut rises only 1/4 to 3/8" when I apply voltage...

I have a Scag mower with a FH580V Kawasaki engine. It appears that the gear on the starter shaft has come loose from the shaft. When energized the starter gear rises to engage the flywheel. The starter shaft spins at a high speed, but the gear doesn't move. Is this a DIY repairable situation...

The battery on my Scag Freedom Z isn't charging. It has a Kawasaki FH580V. My initial diagnosis a few days ago indicated the rectifier was bad. The AC voltage from the stator was over 24V (and still is). I read only battery voltage between the rectifier terminal going to the battery, not 14...

Thanks for the quick reply. I didn’t think there would be a problem, but your reassurance is appreciated.

I recently ordered a set of three blades from Amazon for my Scag Freedom Z 52". The new blades are the same length as authentic Scag blades and appear to be the same thickness and weight. However, in the attached photo you'll see that the cutting edges are somewhat longer and the "notches" are...

Thanks gentlemen for the detailed instructions.

I recently had to replace the main drive belt (between engine and the two drive axles). Having never changed this belt, I first thought I'd need to remove the main pulley/clutch assembly. I soon realized that wasn't necessary, but I "discovered" what I thought were loose nuts on the clutch...

Thanks StarTech. Just what I was looking for.

Can anyone direct me to an online electrical schematic for my 14 year old Freedom Z with 19 HP Kawasaki? I'm hoping to find a real schematic, not just the diagram included in the owner's manual. A schematic will show the inner "workings" of each electrical component (e.g. contacts, coils etc.)...

The mower is 12 years old with 1200 hours. I took the mower to a repair shop due to a leaking seal on the left transaxle. Also the left steering control arm had recently started rapidly returning to neutral in a very quick almost jerky movement. This arm now requires very little force to move...

I had a local repair shop pick up the mower. They said it's not uncommon for a start to appear to operate OK when on the bench, but "bog down" under load (as I suspected). They replaced the starter, and adjusted the valves while they had it. Now it starts faster than ever and runs great...

As stated above, I attached cables directly from good battery to starter. The starter barely turns the engine.

I tried the suggestions above without any change. I've removed the starter and connected directly to a good auto battery using heavy jumper cables. The starter seems to run fine with no load. Using a strobe app I downloaded to my iPhone it appears that the starter is spinning at around 1200...

I have a Scag Freedom Z with a Kawasaki FH580V-AW00 that is 14 years old with less than 700 hours. I've changed the oil and filter regularly and run only non-ethanol 87 octane. Never had any problems until now. Recently it wouldn't start and seemed the cranking speed was slower than in the...