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I have tumbleweeds, and my lawn tractor blades look a ton worse than those after just 15 minutes !!!

For my LT1000 lawn tractor, a replacement mandrel is about the same price as an entire new spindle. I purchase such parts online, from Ebay retailers.

Good idea !

I wanted to paint my new patio cover, so didn't have time to try one of the local tire stores Sat. morning. I have a feeling it would've been $20 to $25 here though...

I needed a new lawn tractor tire (rear, 18x9.5-8 NHS), ordered one through Amazon; it arrived with clear tape holding on the shipping label, but so tight it deformed the tire. I had tried plenty of Slime, could not do a plug or patch as it appeared that the hole only went through to the inner...

Finally bit the bullet and ordered a replacement rear tire yesterday....where the leak showed externally did not go through, apparently air was working its way around to escape. Also yesterday I bought a non-pneumatic replacement tire for my wheelbarrow at Harbor Freight; the inner tube had...

Update: a few days ago - still no rain - I was finishing up the tumbleweeds mowing. The left lawn tractor spindle broke, but I had a spare here. But that caused the top pulley to grind through the left brake bar; since I didn't know that a shop 25 miles away would have such part, I just...

Have hardly mowed in the last 12 months, lack of rain. So mostly tumbleweeds.

Yesterday, went to mow some tumbleweeds with my 2005 LT1000 lawn tractor. 1. Found a tire was flat; added slime, pumped it up. 2. After 20 minutes of mowing, and moving to the front, my deck belt/blade engagement cable failed. Since I had a new spare one, I didn't try to use a hose clamp to...

Do neighbor a favor, cut the lawn for him !!!

The blade bolts on my 2005 LT1000 42 inch lawn tractor are right-hand thread, and fine thread as well, specially hardened bolts. I use a 1/2 ratchet and 6-sided 9/16" socket for these.

I don't know what a 30'' R110, but many mowers will break a sacrificial flywheel key when hitting an object to protect the engine.

My 2005 LT1000 doesn't have any gauges. What do you need the gauge for - to remind yourself constantly that the alternator is working???

I have 42" deck Craftsman LT1000 917.275371 from 2005. Yes, Sears model number stuff is pretty confusing. Yes, the owner's manual lists slightly-different length/different part numbers for its two belts. I use 95 x ½ inches Kevlar A93K for both the tractor belt and the mowing blades belt.

Thanks. I looked again at the (crummy) parts diagram on the PDF of the manual, and I see that now. I'll buy two of the brake springs. Brake springs 131335 (147 on diagram, ends are perpendicular) Idler spring 169022 (148 on diagram, ends are parallel, point in same direction)

I do have two springs installed currently, but think that the spring on the left side is actually a spring for the right side. I'll order correct left hand spring and a spare, as I'm far away from a local mower parts house. Thanks..

I have Sears LT1000 lawn tractor 917.275371 from 2005. Today while mowing the left deck spindle broke, no problem as I have replacements. However the left spring #131335 also broke. I had a used mower spring that seemed about the right size and strength (might be #10-15543), put that on with...

In the "field", I put on gloves and yank the idler pulley to free it, or to get the mowing belt back on the idler. Sure, the belts do wear. One does not need to remove the deck to replace a mowing belt like the owner's manual states. I can take off the spindle cover and replace the mowing...

When similar happens on my 2005 LT1000, it's typically because the idler pulley on the deck has gotten stuck so it won't put tension on the drive belt. Or has slipped off the right idler, I can typically get that going in 2 minutes "in the field".

I had an automotive battery that was less than a week out of warranty, parts place offered nothing. I went caddy-corner and bought a Walmart battery for $20 less than the parts store. Both were made by Johnson Controls, which has like 85% of USA battery market.

Yep, Mrs. Cusser, a few years ago. Cannot remember the occasion for champagne in summertime...

I had similar hard-to-crank issues after a few years with my LT1000 917.275371 purchased in 2005. I would keep the battery on a tender, adjusted the valves a few times, had battery checked for performance under load a few times. Anyway, while mowing one day the engine lost oil and seized...

Call number listed in the owner's manual, on telephone, the old fashioned way, might be a very simple "fix". Take back to store if no help there.

I have a Craftsman LT-1000 917.275371, purchased May 2005, with 31C7070230E1 engine. In 2013 that engine died and I replaced it with a 31P677 0912 G5 purchased online, pretty similar engine, slightly larger, and the new engine had an oil filter too. This was a straightforward swap, I'd say...

I'd say $25 is fair because you're going to need to do a bunch on that. About 2 years ago a bought a standard low-end mower brand-new for about $160, with warranty. Note that mine is pull start and not self-propelled.

Need to fix this. Ask me why.

Maybe the tensioner pulley arm is stuck. I have this happen periodically.

When my backyard lawn mower cord practically pulled my arm off my shoulder, it was caused by a sheared flywheel key. These keys are made to "sacrificially" break in case the blade hits a stump or something, to prevent major engine damage.

And does that carburetor solenoid click/operate when it gets that positive voltage?

Yes. If you do the other way, the reading will be in "negative volts" if you have voltage there, but it won't hurt anything. Read the instruction manual or look online, pretty much all operate the same.

Better thread titles: Craftsman R1000 Motor turns but won't start Craftsman R1000 Motor cranks but won't start Cranks = turns

Don't press in the priming button before restarting, when hot. If you are doing this, don't !

I'm near Prescott, Arizona and I have a lawn tractor and a pull cart, and 2 acres full of thorny things. So punctures are common on these, and on our bicycles. If a tube, can simply replace or repair the tube (like on a bicycle), not expensive. If tube, or if tubeless, try unscrewing the...

Measure the length of the old belt that had worked.

A bottle of wine oftentimes gets Mrs. Cusser to turn over !!!!

I was going to post the SAME !!!

I've purchased new spindle assemblies for my LT1000, not expensive and hen don't have to deal with separate mandrels. Sometimes I've pounded out mandrels to fit used ones in, but I stock replacements purchased online as I'm away from a big city...

Maybe a 42" deck will fit in place of the original 46" deck???? Did you investigate used decks on Ebay?

Bolts are right hand thread and face upwards, so by looking down at the ground you'd be pulling "clockwise". I also like the long pipe on the breaker bar idea with a 6-pointed socket; maybe get a helper with leather gloves to hold the socket onto the bolt head. My own 2005 LT1000 uses a 9/16"...

So my lawn tractor is starting fine - when the battery has enough juice. I know I need a new U1R battery, but with Arizona drought may not get weeds to mow for several months - so waiting for that. Walmart seems best price for U1R battery ($25), by a decent margin over O'Reilly and Autozone.

I'd look on Ebay, can immediately see the shipped price; yes there are several types of flywheel keys, so must match/find correct one. like this for #611004 key. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=flywheel+key++611004&_sacat=0 I used to have a Craftsman...

Drainzit #1438 would work as well, I just didn't feel like ordering/waiting. https://www.amazon.com/Drainzit-Oil-Changing-Aid-STAN1438/dp/B000PDN3HY

I bought a complete new engine for my LT1000 back in 2013, easy bolt in.

I changed the oil yesterday on the Briggs & Stratton 31P677 engine. The oil drain plug is located in a terrible location. Oil drain tubes are available commercially, like Drainzit, but I would've needed to order that, so had parts to make my own drain tube accessory. This tube will just be...

Well, was only 100F here yesterday, not the 117F Phoenix had....have to wear few clothes... I still think better instructions/labeling by Craftsman would've helped here.

OK, no rain so far this summer, so no new weeds. But I did try today to start up the lawn tractor, started right up, again, no need to spray in any starting fluid. So I'm convinced that the choke was stuck open, and I had freed that up, so now it chokes (closed) in the up position and then...

I had a bunch of issues with the original B&S engine in my 2005 LT1000. Then one day while mowing maybe 2012, all the oil leaked out and the engine seized. I bought a complete engine online, even had oil filter capability, and it bolted in easily. Cost was under $500 then, and I've been...

I went out and with lever in the top position, the engine started right up, hasn't done that in a couple of years. So I think that the butterfly was stuck in the open position, so engine hadn't been getting a richer mixture to start. But now the choke is operating properly, like it was...

Got it, took a better look with "fresh eyes". Cannot on this engine look straight down and see the choke butterfly itself. Yes, full up position of lever is choked by a steel rod pushing forward, with air amount being decreased so mixture is richer. Once one pulls down the lever to about 60%...

Looked and hooked up same as on the original engine: 1 lever, and just a single cable.