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More thoughts... Octane is for acceleration. Since most mowers run at a constant engine speed, a higher grade of fuel will mean very little. The only place more expensive fuel would help is with the fuel cleaners and conditioners found in major brands like Shell and Chevron in their premium...

Let me get this straight. The owner has a mower. The mower is partially disassembled. But the owner doesn't know anything about what the pieces are or who might have taken it apart. Here's what I've seen a thousand times... The owner is acting ignorant because of 1 of 2 things... He knows the...

The next thing you should look for is the engine model number. Since you started a new thread, we can't possibly remember what engine or mower you're talking about. You need to tell us again. Try some starting fluid or some other spray you know will start engines. See if it will sputter with...

From your photos it looks much more like the doubled over end of the spring broke off. The landing (besides having a screw in it) looks just fine.

Power take off Please turn over Protesters taking over Photos taken on-line Pass the olives Please tell others Pastrami, tomatoes & onions Police training officer Please think of others

An Some ideas... How old is the oldest fuel in the tank ? Did the mower sit over the winter with fuel in the tank ? Don't be too quick to call that stuff "fuel". Ethanol does NOT stay in solution with gasoline. It has to be agitated or shaken regularly. After a dozen weeks of storage your...

If you can't find the correct unit, then Amazon has a selection. It's probably a 2-wire alternator, so all you need to know is the output of the system. I would guess that most are well under 7A. So you buy one with 2 yellow wires rated at 10-15A and you'll be fine.

Another satisfied customer ! :giggle:

It only "looks" old school. These days, because of EPA compliance, the carbs are so leaned out and so closely matched to the engines that swapping major parts around is really a no-no. You can certainly try it, but I'd take a bunch of cylinder head temp readings before and after for comparison...

All seals need lubrication at installation. No LocTite or other type of sealant should be required. Follow the instructions in the workshop manual, not internet rumors.

Now that is taking "2-tone color" to a new level. :ROFLMAO:

The loose brake lever is probably not engaging the interlock switch properly. The interlock will not allow the PTO to be engaged with the p-brake lever in the "wrong" position (or a position the switch is indicating is wrong). Therefore the interlock cuts the engine off to protect you. Find...

No sir. If the battery circuit was broken at any place, then the entire electrical system would be dead. Which would not show up until the mower was turned OFF.

GREAT FIND !! Back in the mid-50's a neighbor had one of those. I always thought it was cool. But even his power cord had 3 or 4 patches !!! :ROFLMAO:

When you get it to the drive, see if you can jump it off with the truck battery. The shock may have damaged the battery, or shaken a battery terminal loose. Check all 4 battery cable terminals. The engine would have continued to run using the alternator until you turned it off.

Some ideas.... Your mower does have a vacuum operated fuel pump. The diaphragm in these will give up. Some of the pumps allow diaphragm replacement, others you replace the whole unit. Your root problem may be associated with stale ethanol fuel being left in the carb over the winter. A...

Sounds like starter safety interlock system is holding you up. Seat switch, parking brake switch, and control lever switches all need to tell the starter it's OK to begin. Either you forgot something simple (like applying the parking brake) or (this is a long shot) one of the switches got...

Several ideas... How old is the fuel? Ethanol fuel can go stale in as short a time as 6-8 weeks. What happens is that the ethanol comes out of solution with the gasoline and all of a sudden the engine gets a couple of tablespoons of pure alcohol... which a low compression engine simply can't...

Use a photo editor or Paint to "Crop" the parts of the photo away that aren't important. There is an excellent free program called GIMP that has all the features of PhotoShop, if you want to get that fancy. If you have a photo that doesn't have any portion to cut away, you can use the Scale...

The new Toro v-twins seem fairly bullet proof.

Swapping the carb is an invitation for trouble. At the very least you will VOID any warranty on the new engine. Engine HP is a result of intake port design, valve size, compression ratio, cam timing, ignition timing, and 10 other things. Very little of that is carb. The design and jetting of...

If the problem is debris in the float valve, then it most likely will NOT be a single, solitary piece. Remove the float bowl and you may find an entire collection of smaller particles that made it through the float valve... all collected in the bottom of the bowl. Wipe the bottom of the bowl...

On some mowers that adjustment is right at the base of the steering arms, just before they go into the cowling.

No, that would not completely test the device or the wiring going to the device. A test lamp only tells you voltage is present, and nothing about the available current. For instance, 10V at 1/50A will allow a test lamp to "work", but not much else. Certainly not a PTO. Lets say the PTO...

Gas, Fire, Compression. Those are the Big 3. You found one of those. Go find the other 2.

Fuses don't just "blow" because they crave attention or "give up". So the fuse is NOT the problem, but rather a symptom of the problem. Look at a schematic for the mower and see what that fuse controls. Probably several things connected to that fuse. If there are no obviously burned up items in...

Did you leave Ethanol gasoline in the carb over the winter ? If so, you'll need to rebuild your carb, paying special attention to the low speed fuel passages and jets. You and about 200 of your closest friends all did the same thing.

The condition of the blade and the RPM of the blade probably make the most difference in cut quality, as long as you are comparing equal setups between the 2 mowers. By that I mean, you weren't running the Honda in "mulch mode" while the Yard Machine was running "side chute" mode, where you ...

No, it's at least the 20 virus. :ROFLMAO:

Let me guess... You just took this mower out of storage. It has the fuel in it from last September. And/or you stored it with fuel in the carb. I'm with Darryl. The old, dirty air filter is making up for blocked low-speed jets... which have been clogged by Ethanol fuel during winter storage...

There's a lot of "back-story" missing here. And your location is not in your profile, so we can't even use our imagination to fill it in. >> Did you put this mower away for the winter with this issue, or has it just developed it when you rolled it out for the first mow of the season ?? >> If...

"Could be" lots of things. Let's not play "coulda, shoulda, woulda" until the owner bothers to get back with details.

"Runs, but without power" type problems are typically low float level and/or clogged low-speed passages. Or it could be you simply got a California model that's jetted leaner. All of these issues work against the engine getting that last 5% of fuel needed to "run strong". Spend 30 minutes...

The weight kit that comes around about Thanksgiving and hangs on until February is the one that always gets me.

"When EF Hutton speaks, people listen. But when Mother Nature calls, by God they respond in a hurry !!"

You cannot test a battery at home. Because of its chemical nature, a battery is rarely Good/ Bad like a light bulb or a fuse. They have about 20 states of relative Goodness/ Badness. What can be done with the battery takes some pro testing to determine. Hope this helps.

1. Your mower deck is probably smashed in at some point, allowing the blade to strike it. Lift it up and rotate the blade by hand. It should clear everything by ~3/8 inch. 2. Second guess is that the spindle bearings (if your unit incorporates such) are shot. Maybe the belt pulls the bearings...

Welcome. Lift has to be measured in VERY precise locations. I notice your numbers are almost exactly half those specified, which simply makes me wonder. And wonder. Then rocker arms often multiply the lift of the cam. I've replaced lots of camshafts, but never one worn to half. I'm not doubting...

If you have an Ohm Meter you can check the individual switches to be working correctly. (Do Not start the mower.) Find each switch and disconnect the 2 wires. Attach the meter to the switch. When the switch is actuated (for instance P-brake taken On-Off) there should be an abrupt ON-OFF reading...

Ideas... Blocked fuel tank breather. Air can't can't enter, thus fuel can't leave. Ignition coil heat sensitive. Ignition control unit heat sensitive. Valve lash too tight. - See if it starts up 15-30 seconds after loosening the gas cap. - Check for spark by laying the spark plug on the cyl...

Between the Seat, Parking Break, and Control Arms there is a highly defined sequence to run the mower. Check your owner's manual again. On my Exmark it is: 1. driver in seat, 2. crank engine, 3. p-break OFF, 4. control arms can come in. If I don't move my control arms all the way out when...

Starters only engage the flywheel during the "cranking process". Afterwards they disengage. So the starter pinion should NOT be touching the flywheel at all while stopped or running. That's normal.

Then trace why your ignition suddenly quit. Water in the kill button ?? Throttle in the wrong position ?? Broken wire ?? Ignitions don't suddenly quit. There's an 85% chance it's something you did while cleaning. I'm not scolding you... that's just the way it is, brother.

If you KNOW that spray can be used as "starter fluid", then OK. I have no such experience. Confirm your suspicions with the plug out and laying on the cyl head.

The plug will be wet with fuel after a short "attempt to crank" session, if the carb is acting correctly. When the plug is out and laid on the cyl head, you should be able to see a bright blue spark day or night.

The fuel tank is above the carb, so fuel flows by gravity from the tank to the carb. In the fuel line between the tank and carb you'll want a 1) fuel shut off valve, and 2) a fuel filter. If rust formed in the empty tank during long storage, then particles could travel to the carb. That trash...

Ravenman - Very difficult for a starter to be "temperature dependent", unless 15yo grease on the bearings has oxidized and gotten hard. That's much more of a classic motorcycle issue than lawn mower. A battery is much more likely to be temperature dependent. But it should be 100% at ~68F and...

The first place to look is always at the just completed work. Your first level of diagnosis is always these 3 things: Fire, Compression, and Fuel. The second level is the timing of those first 3 items. You wrote quite a bit (thank you), but missed all the needed details. Example: You replaced...

Agreed. Mower ignitions can play havoc with newer digital meters. Best to use an old analog meter.