Search results

Not sure about your particular engine... but a rod or linkage (possibly associated with the throttle) should push the choke to the ON position, and the spring is usually there to insure that the choke butterfly returns to the OFF position when the linkage retracts. Failing all other efforts...

No experience with the Gravely. I'm sure it's a fine mower. Your Exmark (made by Toro) must be used because most of their larger mowers now come with their own engine... which (BTW) is getting rave reviews. The Exmarks are typically feature-rich in ways you only appreciate after long ownership...

Some ideas... You'll be changing either oil long before it's "worn out" simply to get rid of the water that gets trapped in the cases. Modern motor oils are doped with so many refinements that the difference gap is narrowing. Synthetic will have a slight edge at start-up. If your mower is a...

No fight here. If I restored older engines, I'd be using 10W40 or 15W40 diesel oil too. Maybe even 20W50 !! And you said most of your engines are used in 90° temps. They will be harder to pull start. But if given 15-30 seconds of idling to warm up they'll be fine. Cold viscosity is not a moot...

The cover (or cuttings under the cover) is probably turning the Choke to the ON position. Clear all the debris away around the carb. Obviously, the cover has to be in place to run the air-cooled engine.

Welcome Aboard !

By this I take it you get no response from the ignition switch, but the battery is charged and in good condition. If that is true, then your charging system is good. How else cound the battery test good, if it wasn't charged ? Start with checking the starter interlock switches on the seat...

You can get small rare earth magnets which you can epoxy into the well of your std nut driver. Or, you can look for the nut driver sets next to the replaceable screw driver bits. Lots of those have magnets in them. Link to DeWalt bit set

Most engine wear occurs in those first moments after starting, during what we call "warm-up". Multi-grades come into their own in water-cooled engines and air-cooled engines that have a tremendous oil supply. This is simply due to the slower or "extended" warm-up times in those engines. In...

Let's hear it for those magnetic nut drivers ! (y)

Toro/Exmark makes some of the best residential mowers available, in all categories. Exmark is to Toro, what Lexus is to Toyota. Exmark will be miles above anything from a "big box store" in reliability, ease of maintenance, parts availability, and noise. I posted a review HERE of my 44" Exmark...

Where is the battery Negative cable attached ? To the body of the mower or to the engine case ?

Black smoke is excessive fuel. Remove the top engine cowling and remove all the grass clippings from the top of the engine and in/around the carb actuating rods. Don't do this with water, high pressure air is highly preferred.

Try changing the fluids and filters on both sides.

Another satisfied customer ! :sneaky:

If it just started, then I advise a hydro unit fluid and filter change. If it's always been that way, then there are adjustments on the control levers.

Looks to be 0.030" standard. BE SURE and coat the threads with something before re-installing it. Never-Seize is best, but 2 drops of motor oil is WAY better than nothing. There is no external oil filter on the Dash. So it's important to change your oil regularly... while the engine is HOT ...

The different color denotes a radical difference in combustion between the sides. The issue with the stopping points to fuel and/or fuel delivery system issues which is causing the difference. Only 147 hours, but how many periods of storage or non-use longer than 8 weeks ?? And during that...

Need photos, model number, serial numbers, etc.

And the API service rating advanced to SH.... and is now at SN. But I believe that all oils rated SF/SG still have the zinc package. These are commonly labeled "for racing", "motorcycle" or some other title that precludes use in street vehicles with catalytic converters. This oil is rated SJ...

Without primary compression in the crankcase, the fluid never makes it to the combustion chamber. That's what the man is telling you.

Is "WOT" the same as "WFO" ?? These technical terms confuse me. :ROFLMAO:

1. Start with new fuel and a new air filter. That would explain the lack of difference between old and new carb. 2. Then the carb adjustments. There is a Hi and Lo adjustment screw. Hi is for full throttle (aka "WFO"). Three guesses what Lo is for.

The "seat switch" is usually under.... wait for it.... the Seat !! :ROFLMAO: What I suspect is that the switches are OK, but that the PO butchered the harness trying to by-pass the safeties. Probably not real pretty. Good luck.

>> Things have changed since you worked on V8's. The EPA got involved and redesigned the fuels AND the entire fuel delivery system (the carb, tank, breather, et al). >> 85% of the time it was the last action you took. Put the old air filter back on. If it runs great, then the new one is far...

Does the bottle have a circular seal indicating the API rating of the oil ? If it is what they say, then it should be rated for service SF or SG. Looks like this.

So what you're telling us is that "Tighten jets in carburetor" is now added to your Spring check list. :ROFLMAO: Congrats.

Another satisfied customer ! :cool:

Sounds like your issue is in the starter safety interlock system, and not the starter or engine. The seller definitely had to do some work to bypass the seat safety switch in order to get off and jump the starter. Now, you may have an additional switch failing. Start by testing all the switches...

Google is your friend.

Then install a manual fuel ON/OFF valve. Cost $6-$8 at most stores.

True.... Install all new fuel lines marked "SAE J30" because the alcohol attacks the older style "rubber". This also applies for the hose to the vacuum operated fuel pump, if present. The new EPA approved vent caps block easily.

News Flash: Zero turn mowers don't rut things by themselves. They need a little help from the driver.

What does the owner/operator's manual say they are ?

Let me guess... you installed some fuel you had sitting around in a can, OR you washed it off with a garden hose. Both look innocent enough, but the engine really doesn't like it.

Several ideas... How old is the fuel? Ethanol fuel can go "bad" in as short a time as 6-8 weeks. What happens is that the ethanol comes out of solution with the gasoline and all of a sudden the engine gets a couple of tablespoons of pure alcohol... which a low compression engine simply can't...

Apparently the engineers at Toro and Kohler think so.

The pump is vacuum operated. Ideas... Replace the hose that takes the vacuum from the engine to the pump with std automotive fuel hose rated SAE J30. Check that the pump output and input aren't reversed. Check the fuel lines for blockages or restrictions. Fuel line should be replaced every 5...

Your machine needs the additional richness of the choke. Therefore your machine is getting too much air, or not enough fuel by normal means. That could be 20 things.

Some ideas.... Your mower has a vacuum operated fuel pump. The diaphragm in these will give up. Some of the pumps allow diaphragm replacement, others you replace the whole unit. Check the fuel flow. Sometimes the EPA fuel tank breather system gets clogged. After several minutes of fuel to flow...

All valve stem seals I've ever seen were under the valve springs. Otherwise they'd need to be inside the intake or exhaust port and that wouldn't work. But not all engines use valve stem seals... because most engines don't pump enough oil into the rocker box to warrant them.

That's exactly what they're hoping !

While rolling or static ? Why don't you simply measure it ? Strap a lever of a known length onto the steering wheel and pull on the lever with a fish scale. And the measurement you need to operate the stock steering will be Torque, because the Force will vary with the length of the lever...

MTD riding mower, mid 90s, stops moving intermittently When I get to my mid-90's, I'll probably be moving fairly intermittently myself ! :ROFLMAO:

Good. That way I won't need to send you my rear view mirror dice or my cheery bomb mufflers !! :ROFLMAO:

Look for a bottle of StarTron at your hardware, boat store, small engine shop, Lowe's, Home Depot... any place that sells or services small engines. This stuff cleans AND stabilizes. Add about 1/2 oz to your main 5 gal fuel can. In that way it works its way into all your small engines. It's...