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Like Star mentioned, are those genuine Kohler parts? Kohler has been using the 24 584 36-S since 2003 and while they are physically larger than what they replace, I've never known of them not fitting. I assume they are hitting the intake manifold? Can't grind on that.

Sorry I'm no help on where to find a reamer and I know this wasn't your question but, the last time I priced a reamer it was cheaper for me to just buy a replacement part rather than to try and fix the failed one I had. Just my 2 cents. Now if your part is NLA or you think you'll need the reamer...

New parts have been known to be defective. If you believe the spark plug and coil are good, the flywheel is the only component left in producing spark.

You are correct. Y-ing into the breather hose will not work. One thing to remember is you're not looking for vacuum, you're looking for positive and negative pulses from the crankcase. If you drill the rocker cover, yes you will need to drill through the inner liner that holds the reed plate...

What's good? What are the numbers? If this engine has been properly maintained, 1500 hours is pretty much nothing. Properly taken care of, 2500-3000 hours is pretty common and 4000 is not unheard of. Sadly, very few take the kind of care it requires to get those kinds of hours.

I realize this thread is a week old but is it a wet oily foul or a dry foul?

Look closely at the holes for any sign of wear. Often the hole can tell you there used to be something in it. It may be as simple as the edges around one hole are slightly shiny where the other are not. Just a thought.

If you do find out it is a flat cam lobe and you are the original purchaser and you have a receipt showing the purchase date, I'd contact Kohler tech service and explain everything just like you did here. You can call them at 920-459-1579 or you can go to kohlerengines.com and leave them a...

Sometimes your choices are few and you have to move on but I'm disappointed we couldn't be much help to you on figuring this one out. I think you definitely ruled out carburetion.

The 24 012 26-S should be the camshaft. The oil pump # should be 24 393 53-S and like you mentioned it is discontinued. The only way to get an oil pump from Kohler now it to buy the complete closure plate assembly. Might check ebay for the pump. If I hadn't thrown them away I would have given...

This is why I was stumped when you loosened that restrictor screw and got no change better or worse. If you look at the attached drawing you'll see where the fuel flow path is from the bowl nut (yours might be adjustable I don't remember) up through the idle restrictor screw and then up to the...

I wouldn't bet my life on it but I believe the HM carb is different than the HH. I had forgotten about the nozzle on the HH but you're right. You were screwed if you removed that nozzle.

And you already answered this but I'm stumped as well so I'll ask if the cross hole and the end hole are for sure open?

Yes. It's a fixed restrictor screw. There is no adjustment. You just screw it in all the way for normal operation. It should bottom out in the hole and fuel should go through the restrictor hole cross drilled in the screw. When you loosen the screw, for test purposes only, that should let...

How far did you back it out? Maybe go a little bit more. Backing out that screw should richen things up.

Like Forest mentioned if you try to open that hole in the idle restrictor you normally only need to take out a tiny tiny bit. It's very easy to go too far. Cracking that screw loose with the engine running will let fuel go around that restrictor and let you know if enlarging that hole is...

With the engine running crack that screw loose just a bit and see if that helps anything.

Scrub, does your carb have a brass screw on the side?

Do you think it's something that we could hear if you posted a video?

Nothing to be sorry about. I just wanted to point it out because some find it frustrating when they take their time to try and help someone and the OP never posts back whether or not the issue was resolved.

There were a couple of exceptions but for the most part, Kohler CV Single cylinder engines used a 1”X3.16” crankshaft. The main difference was the threads were the bolt went in. Some were metric and some were SAE. The footprint would be the same. The other differences could be the charging...

Many of us have either done it come close to doing it but just FYI, you're responding to a 7 year old post.

Not sure where you might be on this at this point but the starter could seem to be good being tested with no load on it but could still fail under load. If the starter is fried you should be able to smell that. Sniff around the end of the starter where the cable from the solenoid connects...

In that 2 or so minutes that the engine won't restart, have you checked for spark in that time period?

The breather reed is where I was headed with my questions. I wouldn't enlarge the holes but make sure they are open. They are small for a reason.

Are you talking oil into the air filter area via the rubber breather tube?

Something I forgot to ask. Are you running the engine with the air filter off? If so, put the air filter hold down screw back in. Many of those older Briggs would run rich if you tried running them with that screw removed as it would let unwanted fuel come up through that open screw hole.

If I am understanding correctly then, yes. That spring needs to be attached to the diaphram as shown in the diagram below in for lack of a better term the U shaped area on two sides of the rod.

I just worked on my personal 1980 B&S 3.5 and used an aftermarket diaphram. It ran worse that it did before I worked on it. I got a genuine B&S diaphram and it now runs great. Yours may use a different diaphram as my carb is metal not plastic. Got the spring and cup on the carb side of the diaphram?

If you're not hearing the lifters clattering your oil pressure is probably okay. On the Command twins, lifter tick is usually the first sign of low oil pressure. You also won't see much oil running with the rocker covers off. There is no pressurized oil in the upper end. Are you torquing the...

Yeah unfortunately it's a fairly generic troubleshooting list. Everything they list doesn't always apply to your specific engine.

Take your voltmeter and simply attach the black lead to the negative terminal of the battery. Then take the red lead of your meter and touch it someplace on the case of the starter that is unpainted. Typically, I usually go to the drive end housing near the mounting bolts. Crank the engine and...

Yep, no ACR on any current production Kohler Twin Cylinder engine except in very specific applications. Before you go too far, are you able and willing to do one simple voltage test?

It almost acts like there is an exhaust restriction but let's start simple. Can you give us the part number you used to update the ignition coils? It should have been a kit with two MDI ignition models and a white wire pigtail for the kill.

Right now I wouldn't be concerned with the ignition modules (magnetos as you call them). Until you can get the engine to turn over there is no good way to test them. Once you get the engine to turn over, the way you would test them is to disconnect the white kill lead at each module, connect a...

The early TVXL840s had an issue with the port plugs popping out but once Tecumseh got that straightened out those were great engines with a lot of torque. They even made one with a Lawn Boy tapered crankshaft that came with a mounting adapter to fit the Lawn Boy deck. They looked pretty ugly on...

I may as well ask a question or two of RK and throw my opinion in. Before you took anything apart and started jumping wires, what exactly did the machine do when you turned the key to try and start the engine? Did it do absolutely nothing as if someone had removed the battery? I ask this...

Glad you got it figured out and thanks for coming back and letting us know. That's exactly why we were asking asking about your testing method. I don't know if you were using a tester that is something like the pic below but if so you're far from the first person to get fooled by it. It...

It is true that you may have ruined both of your ignition modules and it's also true that you may not have. If your CV20 still has the original 24 584 01-S modules they are probably toast or at best have been compromised. A module that should have lasted the life of the engine will at best have...

When you put it back together make sure the taper on the crankshaft and the taper inside the flywheel is clean and dry. Torque to 55 ft lbs. There will be those who say they do it all the time with no issues but my recommendation is never use an impact on a flywheel fastener to remove or...

Well, if the key is good then ignition timing should be good as long as the air gap on the ignition modules is correct. The only other timing is valve timing and that shouldn't change as long as you got the timing marks on the cam and crank aligned properly. There is a very slim chance the gear...

You had they flywheel off when you checked the key?

It could be an issue with getting good fuel flow through the valve but do you know for sure you're getting good fuel flow to the valve?

This may help. Kohler calls for changing the oil and oil filter every 300 hours according to the above info I snipped from their KT owner's manual. That's a fairly recent change. They used to state, change the oil every 100 hours and the oil filter every 200 hours. No matter how often you...

You may already have this info but in case you don't.....

Did you adjust the valves with the piston at TDC? If so were you on TDC compression or TDC exhaust?

Will it start right back up or does it need to sit a while before it will start again? I just noticed you started another thread on this same issue earlier in the week and from that description I may be thinking something different than you about stall. Does it just start running like it's...

Technical service and education. Which included training new Kohler technicians, answering technical calls and approving or unfortunately sometimes denying warranties.

Just curious here. Are you saying the Courage single is or was (it hasn't been built since 2018) built in China?

I would agree. At this point trying to rebuild this engine, if it indeed has failed as described, would not be the way to go. Your engine failed so my opinion really doesn’t help your issue, but I would have to strongly disagree with your mechanic’s assessment of the Kohler Courage Twin cylinder...