Recent content by slomo

Remove all ignition parts. Remove all corrosion from them. Polish said parts to clean metal. Polish mounting surfaces on the engine block. Clean all mounting screws to bare metal. Reinstall parts and test for spark. Oil that thirst looking white wick that lubes the ignition points lobe.

Carb needle/seat not sealing proper. Like Scrubcadet10 was getting at, clean the tank, new fuel lines, filter and shut off valve would be nice. Once carb is fixed - Dump the oil. Mow. Dump the oil. Mow. Dump the oil. Mow as normal.

Don't waste time and money "rebuilding" these pumps. Get new OEM parts from a real mower shop. Not some Amazon/Ebay Chinese outlet.

Fuel tank cap vent bad possibly. Grass, dirt and bugs IN the tank. Choke not working proper. Plugged air filter. Spark plug burried with deposits. Clean some engine cooling fins when you are at it. See below that red text?

Hype

Leaking fuel pump shouldn't make a knocking sound. Water in the fuel tank, yes. Engine damage as in never cleaned the cooling fins, sure. 120 hours is a long time to not do any maintenance. Low or no oil can make it knock. Wrong oil type. Brick hard grass deposits under the deck hitting the...

And clean your engine cooling fins while you are at it. See that red text below?

Sounds like spindle/belt replacement time. Take pictures or even better a video and post/link here. More pics the better. Also need mower and possibly engine numbers to assist you further. Years, colors and attachments don't help us much, to help you.

Then your carb/throttle linkage is off. Either a cable is bent, bent up or non OEM or linkage stuff is way off. Finger works to max revs but not linkage. Look up your carb and linkages at your engine parts list. Somebody has been playing around in there.....

Plug on the right. Center section looks good. Main jet looks rich at outer ring. Guessing BPR4? Plug on left. Cold, looking pretty rough with deposits. BPR6?

Can get reach max revs like 3600 with your finger controlling the throttle plate?

A gauge that old, might need a new o-ring.

Plasma cutter and a TIG welder. Good to go.

If you are trying to bag or on leaf patrol, max revs is the ticket. Crank her up to 3600 and never look back.

Water in the fuel. Valves out of spec like txmowman said. Wrong oil type or level. I would dump the fuel tank, flush it out then blow out with compressed air both ways. How about some cooling fins? Got any mice apartments going on under the shroud?

I've never found the tractor style units to cut well either. Not a purpose built mower. Trying to be a one stop shop for farmers. Pull a cart, cut some grass super machine. Tires aired up proper? Use Oregon or OEM blades. After that, you are at the mercy of the deck design or lack of.

Fuel tank with trash inside. Dump and flush out the tank. Blow out both ways with compressed air. Fresh E-0 fuel when done cleaning.

Yup, lower revs saves fuel. Wouldn't worry about the oil temp drop. You actually want the oil nice and hot to burn off any moisture in the oil sump. Now if you get over 300F temps, let's talk again. Can thank the Democrats for the extra gallon and a half you use at 3600. Call Sleepy Joe and...

Don't use the mower until you get the carb fixed. Then dump the oil a couple times. Sounds like you have gas in the oil. Not a good mix.

Pull oil dipstick and smell for fuel.

Dirty carb and dirty fuel tank. Probable never cleaned the cylinder cooling fins either. Valve adjustment would be a smart move.

Not one thing I can recall. It's like the best car wax of the week. All new waxes and ceramics blah blah are always tested against the world standard Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell. GrandPa used it, Dad used it, I use it........

OP seems to have a good answer book. (y) 1.Used OEM carb leaking fuel, I get it. Remedy the needle and seat. 2.New "UNTESTED" Chinese carb, definitely understand slash expected it. All carbs should be pressure tested. 3.Going by the most likely cause is getting you nowhere. Story went from...

Couple more to the list. 1.Valve adjustment. Keeps her running and starting like new. 2.Clean block and cylinder cooling fins. Yearly must do. 3.Fuel stabilizer year round. If you drain for winter, hoses will dry up and crack. Then you must replace. Also never worry about how old the fuel is...

My man...... Keep those fins clean. A yearly item as a must do on ALL mowers. Tell your friends about some clean fins.

🍿

Check the choke. Check oil dipstick for a gas smell.

Air, fuel, compression and spark. Fuel tank with a partial clog. Ignition coil going bad.

A clean fuel system is a great starting point. What you describe, to me, is a clogged carb. Little choke limps you back to the garage. Engine is wanting more fuel. Carb needle might be sticking closed??. Float level too low. She is thirsty.

What could you do? Remove fuel line AT carb. See if you get good flow into a glass jar. If not investigate the fuel system. Most likely grass and dirt in fuel tank. Clean the cooling fins while you are at it.

Good to know sir.

You must have a can that lacks oil. Or wipe it down after spraying.

Never use any water or wonder cleaner of the month. Back pack blower is all for weekly cleaning. Paint brush for dusting. Winter project, Turtle Wax the deck. Keeps the paint looking new. Slather used engine oil to the under side of deck. No deck rot and keeps grass from sticking.

Attracts and holds dirt too.

Residential grade around here (Oklahoma). None of the lawn crews run them. SCAGS, Snapper Pros and Toro's preferred around here.

He already got it running.

As you stated, you can adjust the valves. Easy job really. Little off the end is all it takes.

Use compressed air to blow off any water that could be shorting ignition parts. Remove top engine shroud. Clean the cooling fins while you are in there. Yearly job in yours and every other engine manual out there. All was good until you gave her a bath right? There are 2 TDC strokes on a 4...

What was wrong with the old part?

Disconnect carb anti-backfire solenoid wires. Snip plunger off of this part. Never worry about this again. Install fuel shutoff valve inline to carb. Happy mowing from now on.

Are you sure the carb is getting to wide open throttle? Entire Kawi linkage conglomerate could be off. Seen it many times. Use your finger to manipulate the throttle plate. See if you can get more revs when it bogs down. Try changing spark plugs. Could have a random nut job in there doing...

Are the valves moving proper? Time to pull the valve cover and see. Push rods where they belong? There are 2 TDC strokes on a 4 stroke engine. Could of set valves wrong. Something is getting missed. Or some "new" part is not working proper.

What bone yards are you speaking about? Nothing around where I live. Would love a list of mower grave yards.

New oil pressure switch, regardless of brand, doesn't mean it works like a new switch. Yes overheats can thin some oil. Bet the top engine shroud has never been off. Valves never been looked at. Cooling fins neglected for sure. He didn't mean it like you wrote it down. Slow down, take a breath...

Something shorted.

All those "new" parts will require testing. Hope you are keeping your old parts. Most are probably good.

Pressure test carb. Specifically the needle and seat here. Carb needle should hold 7psi for 30+ minutes with a WET needle. Spray some PB Blaster on the needle first.

He meant pull the oil dipstick and SMELL it for gas.

Nice mower you got there. Thought 0-turns were the craze. Now we have flying mowers LOL.

Those are the ones I used to drool over back in the day. We had an old craftsman. All the lawn crews and such ran Snappers. Hope you are not getting rid of it to get a new Honda or other inferior mower. You will kick youself trust me. My dad got rid of his aluminum deck Toro SR for a new...

That is the Briggs engine series. Nothing to do with the Snapper mower. Just an FYI. Old gas. Dump and flush out the fuel tank. Probably wouldn't hurt to install new fuel line while you are there. Clean some cooling fins. Bet the upper shroud has never been off.

Measure the blade to be sure. Engine is a 1996 Briggs. Take care of it. Don't make them like that anymore. Could be a repower possibly. What is throwing me is the skinny left rear tire. Looks like proper right rear I think. Pictures are throwing me off. The 33" normally has wider meats on...

As stated by ILENGINE, 3 psi is perfect.

Solder the wires on for free. Not puppy dog surgery here guys. No need for special connectors. Just a lawn mower.... Better yet, snip the solenoid plunger and use a fuel shut off valve. Never mess with this again. Another free tech tip Friday.

As you found out, no cure. Probably needed this anyway. Typical American thinking. Book calls for vanilla. We scoup some strawberry. Correct for this engine. Park the stick on top of the tube threads when checking oil level. Oil fanatic here. Keep the oil exactly on the full mark. Not over...

"I hear nothing" (Sgt. Schultz).

No need to run at med or low revs. You lose cooling and oil lubrication doing that. Max revs ALL the time.

Enough said.

Fix it proper. Sounds like you can read a schematic. Get her working like new.

I was digging that adjustable mixture carb needle. Manual chokes..... Those were the days.

Fuel delivery, spark issue or handle safety switches.

When you clean slash inspect cooling fins, you must inspect all around each cylinder and block areas. Some blocks have spots behind mufflers and most have a pan shroud around said cylinder/s. Grass packs up under those sneaky pans. Don't just pull the upper shroud, see no grass and move on...