Recent content by slomo

Agree, you can see mice chewing on wires here. Lucky the mower didn't burn to the ground.

I always check the oil prior to mowing in all machines. An easy 12 second task is all. I always use a fuel shutoff on every mower. Also replace or clean the needle and seat if needed. Only a few bucks.

Dirty carb and or fuel system. Possible blown head gasket.

Fuel getting into the oil. Excessive oil level. Two main ways one can hydro-lock an engine. Dump the oil. Refill with SAE 30 to the full mark and only the full mark. Engine on flat ground ect.... Pull the dipstick and smell for fuel. If you smell gas, repair the carb needle and seat. If this...

I see all kinds of sludge on the lower block area. Guess I'll take your word the fins are actually clean. (y) So now you have a coil issue? My first reply on page 1 was to check for spark slash load test the coil.

yes. Make it flat again.

You know and I know they are not a true fix for a needle and seat repair. Obviously when the needle sticks open, I won't get fuel in my oil.

It also needs a time test on it. Not an oral fixation quickie LOL. Something like 10-30 minutes would be nice.

Snapper to the rescue.

$3.21 at wally's china mart.

Maybe he forgot the Flex Seal when installing the gasket? LOL

Is there a fuel pump on this? If so do you have good fuel delivery AT the carbs? Air, fuel, spark and compression.

So assuming that key is 100% intact, I would say rule out the key and abnormal timing. Again I'm no Tecumseh expert like others on here. WHICH, after rereading this one, takes me back to the carbs. Running rich and popping, adding choke makes it worse......... I would Bertsmobile1 boil clean...

I'd start with 220, progress to 400 then 800 wet/dry paper. Let the PAPER DO ALL THE WORK. Use a spray bottle with soap and water. Keep rotating the paper as you clean up the area. This is aluminum, no need for aggressive grits here. Get a small piece of plate glass from a glass shop. They have...

Crack the fuel tank cap when it dies. Maybe your cap is not venting.

Really? No oil leaks attracting grass and dirt either, all over the block and fins? Even under the air directing pan that goes around the block? Behind your muffler or any other areas? This must be a brand new or hardly used mower. But wait, the included picture, the lower block is filthy...

Which could/would dislodge any grass and dirt in the tank allowing fuel to make it to the carb. Drop the fuel tank and carb bowl. Clean and or replace everything. Make sure the tank is spotless down in the bottom. If you need reading glasses to see in there like me, use them.

Take some wider pictures of the flywheel.

WD-40 is not a good penetrating lube. Get some PB Blaster next time. All of the retaining items removed? If so a little propane torch might loosen her up. Try some compressed air too. Heat the part and quench with PB Blaster. That might assist the PB getting into the part to loosen it up.

I agree it doesn't help you now. But some old timers would walk the yard prior to tearing up a mower. ;) Use this message in the future to help you out.

Got any pictures of what you are working on?

Can you buy too big of a zero turn? Yes.

1.Remove the kill wire off the ignition coil for testing only. Engine should run the fuel tank dry. 2.Check for bad pulley or PTO slash bearings. Something not allowing your belts to turn dogging down the engine. 3.Make sure the deck and blades are clear to spin. 4.Verify you have full battery...

If you have to make a vent hole, take a small paperclip. Use a propane torch to heat the tip. Shove the hot clip into the cap. Don't need a big hole. Course now your tank is vented. Fuel will deteriorate faster and possibly leak out of the cap. Best to get a new OEM cap.

Stop turning the cap when the cap stops turning. Gentle snug is all you need.

Why is that outer black ring loose in a couple spots? Recon the key looks good.

Hydrolocked means the cylinder is full of a liquid that the piston can't compress. Normal operation is air and fuel vapors/droplets.

Old timers would walk the yard prior to mowing. Removing items like that as to not do mower/blade/deck/house/people damage.

Is that the engine flywheel or a belt pulley? What am I looking at? Not a Tecumseeme pro.

And don't go all crazy with any grease or lubes. If you have to use some silicone spray and a gentle wipe off. Lube will catch grit and sand destroying parts.

Nice catch on the tin air ducting shields MParr. Spot on as usual sir.

Lower part of your block is FILTHY. Pull the engine cover and clean that mud pit out. Must be a Saturday Night mud bog special.

Have you ever, removed the top engine cover and looked at the block cooling fins for grass, oil, grit, mice and their nests and the like? Did you know that one scalping session can clog said fins and cause overheats? Did you know this is in your engine manual as a yearly item as in a MUST DO?

5 minutes is enough time to fully heat an air cooled engine. Try to keep your hand on the head. Usually when an engine dies say 5-30 minutes later, it's a lack of fuel delivery or a weak coil that when hot peters out creating weak spark. As in you need to load test the ignition coil. Take an...

Did you get your reading glasses on if required, and stare into the bottom of the tank? Or just look at the outside of the tank? Really look into the lowest part of the tank. EVERY tank on Earth will have some kind of trash in it. Unless you just rolled this off a dealer floor? I'm working on...

Noting but a visual test. Now you need a functional test on it. New doesn't mean new these days. As Bert is hitting on - Try removing the fuel cap. Possible tank over pressure condition after a few minutes of the fuel sloshing around. This tank cap might not be venting. Listen for a soda can...

Another satisfied customer. ;) (y)

Too much or not enough fuel. Possible vacuum leak/s. You ruled out weak spark right? Long shot is flywheel key off just a touch creating improper ignition timing.

Red circled area looks to be where it started. Looks to be the highest heat concentration.

Doesn't look too bad for a repair. Run one new wire at a time. Zip ties and E tape are your friends. Use the same gauge or heavier wire. Don't use crap butt connectors. Solder and heat shrink is preferred. Let us know how it comes out.

Those steel corrugated cables are very rough on wires. I would plastic loom and tape everything up well next time. Definitely run the wires away from throttle cables. Mowers create a lot of vibes into the machine and wiring.

To me, looks like some wires rubbing on that steel throttle/choke cable got shorted. See that bundle of wires with no insulation? At the bottom center of the picture? Look at the blue crayon area I circled up.

Something is drawing too much current. Well it's not the + cable right? Um, not advised to install a higher amp fuse, even for testing. Again you have excessive amp draw. All good is no further issues. I would disconnect items kinda like you are doing. One at a time reconnect and see when...

This one of those ultra fast deck removed mud bogger mowers?

Lack of fuel, carb needle sticking open or vacuum leaks. You just found a suspect cylinder. This is a little low, still should run. Valves not set proper? Blown head gaskets? This you said you put a new head on. Flywheel key just a touch off and about to shear? Flywheel torqued to proper...

How long did you test the carbs with press/vac? So it sounds like you've done it all. New carbs, tested old ones. Is the fuel tank spotless in the bottom? Does this engine have a fuel pump? Should have good fuel flow AT the carbs. Carb linkages out of whack? Meaning one cyl set to 3k and the...

Might not directly solve this one but a good practice no doubt.

If you get me a plane ticket I would come to your house and look at it with you. Best I can offer. Go back to the basics. Some good ol' air, fuel, spark and compression. Let us know of you have trouble with the first one.

You are correct. I don't have any spares laying around my house.

A purposely installed kill spring on the dead man's lever. Could shoot some white lithium grease inside the cable housing. Lube the sucka' up.

Is the block overheating? Load test the ignition coil. Fuel tank holding grass, grit and dirt?

Get one of these. Install it in your fuel line going to the carb. Shut the fuel off about a minute prior to you finishing mowing.

Not what you want to hear, at all. Just stating the obvious. Battery tools are in my opinion, disposable. As in cash in the trash. Most good gas yard tools have much longer lives to them. Case in point my Snapper push mowers. Early 1980's with original Briggs engines. Still runs like brand...

Dude probably ran pure motor honey to sell it off. You said the oil looked good as in possibly new. I would dump the oil and put some fresh SAE 30 in there. If you still have oil coming out of where it shouldn't, next would be a head gasket possibly. Did you leave the key on? I would flush...

Should have a clean your cooling fins super stick em' too.

Was this in your mower or engine manuals? Just asking as water tends to rust everything and corrodes electrical items. Use a leaf blower or compressed air. And clean the block and cooling fins while you are at it. I know for a fact this is in your engine manual as a yearly must do item.

Or replace the needle AND use a fuel shutoff valve.

On all mower engines that I can fit them, I install a fuel filter and a shutoff valve inline to the carb.

Sounds like a leaking carb needle/seat. I would pressure test both carbs. I would load test the ignition coils also. Confirm you have proper spark.

Another satisfied customer. (y)

Sounds like a worn starter solenoid to me. Contacts are dead slash dying. Could be many things. I see grounds were never checked. What ground???

Where was this taught at? Go one level thicker on oil to combat burning, LOL. Just hit me. This is typical American logic. Engine manufacturer says SAE 30W. We all think hey go to 20W50 LOL. :rolleyes:

You can get a 4 barrel Holley for some of these prices LOL.

Just agreeing with you is all. Clean those fins all day long.

Good point Ferd. Those darn........ ;)

Take a new engine. Mow with it ONE TIME. Dump the oil in direct sunlight. You will have a ton of metal flake in the oil catch pan. Up to you when to remove all that metal in the oil. Oil is cheap and since these don't hold much compared to a Diesel truck........

Get one of those crack dealer special needles and shoot some grease into them. Or do this.

Clean your block and cooling fins while you are at it. Bet that engine cover has never been off.

It's called the needle and seat. Works like a toilet. Dump the fuel tank, reverse blow with compressed air. Get that tank spotlessly clean as in brand new perfect. Probably grass and grit in the tank heading towards the carb. Install all new fuel lines and filter from tank to carb. Remove...

Umm, um, don't know how to approach this one. Okay, take the OEM Kroller carb and boil clean it. If you can't get it clean then buy an OEM Kroller carb for it.

It would have if you greased them sooner. And go clean you cooling fins while you are at it. LOL

If you want to remove rust just sand it down or wire wheel it. Once converted spray away. Could use Corroseal on other projects too Better to get a new cover no doubt.

Might use a good rust converter like Corroseal, primer and a little paint too. https://corroseal.com/

Ah okay, so I need to remove the engine cover and clean the block and fins? Probably a yearly item right? LOL

I couldn't hear you!!

What did you say?

Need some Turtle Wax on the deck.

Might clean the block cooling fins while you are at it. Remove the top engine cover and get to cleaning. This is a yearly item in your engine manual.

Choke plate is supposed to be fully open once the engine is warm. Something like 1-3 minutes.

I'm a Karen. No sense in chopping off a leg for a simple momentary contact closure switch right? An ER visit is an easy 5 grand just to say hi to a nurse. Simple switch is under 10 bucks. (y)

Take the battery back since it's new. Try another battery or jumper cables. Did you leave the key on over night?

Here you go.

Pictures would be nice here. And turn your phone sideways to get a wider shot.

If this is a CV15S, I just worked on one. If I could get a wider picture of the carb linkages, might be able to help. For the two linkages, one will push in at full throttle slash choke setting about an inch roughly, and only that much. That is your choke linkage. Other one should move in...

Oregon

bcliquidforce, I see you are new here. Welcome to the best mower forum on the internet. Far as Bertsmobile1 goes, that guy, in my opinion, is a walking genius. He is very straight up in your face but always correct. I have to admit, at first I was a little turned off buy him. I actually read...

This is why I preach on here to CLEAN YOUR COOLING FINS AND BLOCK AREAS. Also it's in your engine manual as a MUST, yearly, to-do item.

4 minutes sounds a little lengthy. Especially in our 95 degree weather we are having. Sounds like a partial pilot jet clog. I would boil clean the carb.

The one in the picture. You can also get it at your local swimming pool supply store, if you have one. All are 100% silicone so not to harm any o-rings like petroleum greases do. It's good for o-rings, fishing reels (silicone is anti-water slash moisture), long term gun storage, mower gaskets...

She's a leek-a' ma-ma she's a leek-a'. Steve Lav on YouTube.

Fuel on the deck is a leaking carb needle and seat. Open your oil dipstick and smell stick for fuel. If you smell gas IN YOUR OIL, change the oil a couple times AFTER YOU GET THE CARB fixed.

Most all new parts require testing. Valve stuck open or broke rod? Lifted valve seat possible. Lack of fuel reaching the plug. Or could be the carb solenoid if it has one. Not recommeded to idle down a splash lube engine. Hope yours has an oil pump. Great. Ever cleaned the block cooling fins...

Is she drinking oil on the job?

That valve guide is shot.

1.Dump the fuel tank. Make sure it is clean enough to eat out of it. 2.Replacing the fuel lines wouldn't hurt. 3.Temporarily - loosen the fuel cap making sure it vents the tank so fuel will flow to the carb. 4.Clean the carb, most likely needs a good Bertsmobile1 boiling super clean. Keep the...

Also load test the battery. As in a must do, place it under a proper load. Get it done free an your local auto parts store. As Bert said, check your grounds. Everyone, for some reason, ALWAYS checks the positive side of the circuits. Then totally ignores the grounds. Unless you have one of...

Why was this done? I'm out of this one. Not going to assist an individual that tampers with safety items on something that came maim or kill someone. Good luck with it.

Yes and WEAR EYE PROTECTION WHEN SPRAYING THAT EVIL CRAP. If you get that in your eyes, you will feel it LOL. Take a bread tie and remove the plastic cover. Use the small wire to rod out any jets or some fishing line. 20-30lb fishing line works great.

I lift push mowers on top of our city plastic garbage cans. Makes a perfect work bench for free. Perfect height too for carb work. Don't forget, cleaning the cooling fins on the block.

Carb is dirty as long as the fuel shut-off valve is open. Remove carb bowl and clean the little guy out. Needle might be stuck closed too.

No mention of clean cooling fins.

Restriction is inside the carb fuel inlet tube.

A 20 year old mower should be bought for pennies on the dollar.

If you can't find it, that sucka' is gone!

This is a yearly must on ALL mower engines. Look in your engine manual. It will say it in there. Most people don't know about cleaning the block and cooling fins. If you've ever cut high grass or scaleped a yard or two, this is a must do. Some baggers trickle grass into the top of the engine...

New fuel pump on the way. I've never seen an inlet restriction like this before on a carb. This mower has not been touched anything more than oil changes. Worse comes to worse, I'm drilling out that inlet restriction and bypassing the fuel pump. Tank is higher than the carb anyway. Full...

Either the block is over heating or an ignition coil or two are getting weak slash failing. Remove the top metal engine cover. Post pictures of the block here. Need to load test your ignition coils.

Pull the top metal engine cover off. Post pictures of your block and cooling fins here. Take shots ALL THE WAY around the block please.

If you loosen the gov arm nut on the shaft that sticks up out of the block, and move the gov arm the wrong way in regards to the throttle plate opening, you will have an engine that is at max revs ALL the time. Gov and linkage arm can be set backwards. Double check what you have done in...

Fuel filter is fairly fresh. Paper inside is still a proper brown color. Fuel from the tank pours out of the filter as fast as gravity allows. Still has the OEM Kroller carb. As I stated, this OEM carb has a tiny hole inside the carb inlet pipe. Size of a carb spray straw. Never seen one like...

Flatten, polish, sand or lap the carb mount area as best as you can. You can reuse the carb diaphragm. No guaranty it will not seal proper. Try it out. Another reason NOT to over torque carb screws and such on mowers. On paper gaskets and diaphragms, I put a thin layer of 100% silicon grease...

Post up a video of your trouble. Show exactly what you are seeing.

I've removed the carb solenoid. Just a small trickle of fuel comes out of the carb bowl bottom. Not gravity flow at all. This engine has a fuel pump. This pump seems dead. Filter looks good.

Sounds spot on as usual mate.

Slow the revs down. Engine is way over rev'ing. You need about half the revs that engine was singing with. Guessing the governor is set backwards or broken internally. You can set the gov backwards and it will do as your video shows.

Sure the cap is not the issue? See if the cap still has the gasket. Swap caps around if they fit. Strange this is on 2 mowers.......

As most are not.

Pull the carbs and "Bertsmobile1 boil clean" them. Sounds like either a vacuum leak or dirty carbs. Valve clearance check would be nice. Clean the cylinder cooling fins yearly. Pull the ignition coils and clean slash polish the mounting surfaces. Provides proper ground for coils. Load test...

Snapper Hi-Vac 21" fire breathing gas engine. Cordless, check. Suction, best on planet Earth. Your grand kids kids kids will be mowing with it.

I would pull the mufflers and clean all the carbon out of the entire exhaust side of the engine. Clean is clean is clean is to clean. Remove the window screen, EPA, US Forestry spark arrester and throw it in the trash. Unless you are trimming in a forest that is. Not really needed for a home...

Pliers are your friend. Solenoid is just above finger tight.

It was all turpentine back in the day LOL.

Fill the hole with JB Weld. Redrill at your size.

OEM Briggs is your best bet. Please explain this? I'm interested. What is the bounce test? And who named it this? LOL Start with a SPOTLESS fuel tank. Fuel tank cap that VENTS proper. Valve clearance in factory specs. Boil clean the OEM carb. Engine block cooling fins clean as you can get...

I would buy the same machine off facebook marketplace or craigslist for pennies on the dollar.

Amen to that.....

This is exactly the fuel pump I'm working on. Thank you Hammer!!

More like cutting the fuel lines off the engine. This one has set for 10 years LOL. New fuel lines on the way. Going to test the pump, pumping into a glass jar on the pump outlet. I know the fuel pump diaphragm is dead after sitting 10 years.

This is a different engine than the one I'm working on now.

Pull the red wire apart. You should have 12 volts on that red wire with the key ON. You will have to remove (unscrew) the solenoid from the carb to see this plunger we are speaking of. It shuts the fuel off to the main jet when you turn the key off.

Yup the ol' fuel pump.

P.S. Was thinking about drilling out that carb restriction on the inlet pipe. If you look down into it, you can see a small hole where the fuel travels through. About the size of a carb spray straw. Then hook the tank up for gravity flow. Basically by-passing that pump for more longevity.

Thanks for the verification Hammer. I knew one of you guys had seen this one before. I appreciate it everyone.

Crazy, the Stens is more money than the OEM Kohler fuel pump.

This was my next test. Check volume out of the pump. Figured the diaphragm was all messed up from sitting 10 years. Looks like a simple ford or chevy v-8 fuel pump. Same working principal anyway.

Fuel pump 12 559 02-S is around 35 bucks. Figured the pump is trashed up a bit from sitting 10 years.

Verified it retracts with key on.

Question is does this engine REQUIRE a fuel pump to run? As in the factory design? Gravity supply lacks volume into carb due to carb inlet restriction.

model CV15S 2005 or 2006 era spec 41590 serial 3005604141 38" Simplicity tractor style rider. Sitting for 10 years. Tank are carb are clean. Fires/runs only with starting fluid. This has a block mounted fuel pump I suspect is bad. Fuel is pumped into a hard line over top of the engine into...

Not familiar with that mower. Look for your mower manual online. https://www.manualslib.com/products/Snapper-Spp140kw-360203.html https://www.bobsmanuals.com/Home_Improvement/Lawn_and_Garden/Snapper/spp140kw/manual/download/...

That looks, to me, like an overseas model??. Some military member might of shipped it back here to the States??. But your dad got it is interesting. From all I've seen, in 1992, decks were steel. That tire tread is unique, deck and grass chute the same. Look at how the chute attaches to the...

Fuel delivery, dead cylinder, valves out of wack, weak ignition coil or plug and dirty carb. 15hp on a 48" deck sounds rather low in hp. My 33" Snapper RER has a 14.5hp Briggs.

Fuel delivery issue. Look at the main and the pilot if you have one. Something is clogged, engine starving for fuel. Describe your cleaning method entirely. Did you use a car type gauge or one for small engines? Remove the gas cap. See if it runs the tank dry. If so get a new cap or drill a...

Might be flooded. Remove the plug and pull the rope several times. times to clear out the cylinder. It's only a 140cc engine, as in small. Either normal compression or cylinder flooding? Put the original plug back in. You said it was fine. Maybe the new plug is suspect? Think on these you...

Higher octane combats engine knocking. End of message. If you have a 9.5:1, 11:1 or 12:1 engine, which negates ALL mower engines, THEN you will use higher octane. Has ZERO to do with cleaning anything, more HP, quicker starts, get the yard cut faster, valve deposits or anything else you might...

I would start with a clean fuel system. From the gas cap to the carb. Mower this old and OP found trash in the line. No doubt got passed onto the pilot and main jets ect.... Time for a "Bert-boil" carb cleaning. On the ignition, I would remove the coils. Sand slash polish the mounting areas to...

Higher octane is simply more resistant to detonation, which higher compression engines CAN have. Higher octane burns slower to resist knocking. Most mower engines are 8:1 or maybe 8.5:1 compression. As in low compression, use any fuel you can buy and dump in. 87 octane is plenty in these...

Briggs made a screen cup deal that went over the main jet fuel pickup tube. That was a huge step in the right direction. These carbs and tanks need to be spotless in order to run correctly. Can look inside the tank and think it's clean. Get some readers on and see another sloppy mess LOL...