Recent content by Rivets

Try this site. https://www.weingartz.com/assembly-diagram/troy-bilt-parts-lookup/model-13027-14hp-hydro-suburban-tractor-s-n-130270100101-wiring-diagram/4390-511777-573364

Post your model number from under the seat, and we can give it a try. Better yet take a picture of the ID tag which ensures we have the correct number.

If the third number you posted 6910201 is the engine code number, you have a unit which is approximately 53 years old. At that age there is a definite possibility that all the baffles in the muffler are gone. Changing the muffler will be a crap shoot, as to if it will reduce the noise. At the...

Reported both guys

I guess I’m with you and have also been doing it wrong all these years. I’m going to sell $5000 of my tools because all you need is about $250 in tools. Drop my liability insurance, as I’ll only fix small easy stuff and won’t worry about an idiot who sees a way to sue me. Upgrade my computer...

Did you check to see that the drive idler arm is moving free keeping constant tension on the drive belt? Second did you check to make sure the variable speed pulley was moving up & down freely when you had both belts off? Both of these could be your problem, along with a bad pulley on the...

Look at one of the valve covers and you’ll find the model, type and code numbers. With them we will be able to tell you what engine you have.

Did you replace both belts. Experience has told me they both need to be replaced at the same time.

Check the idler arm and pulleys for proper movement.

When was the last time you changed the drive belts? Sounds to me like the belt may be worn. If it has been more than 3 years I would start by changing it. While your are under the unit check the idler pulleys, as if their bearings are worn they could also be causing your problem.

Thanks TX for that number, never see it before. Even when I was working the only way I could get through to Kawasaki was go through the distributor. As we’ve seen before always more than one way to skin a cat.

Can’t get a parts manual/diagram until we can find your engine. That’s why I recommend contacting Kawasaki directing. I understand that it is for the Power Sports group, but I have called them and when I explain my problem with courtesy and understanding, plus get a good service rep, I’ve been...

I have not been able to find any information on the engine with the tag number you posted. Looking at other Kawasaki FR691 engines I have to agree that the carb number he posted MAY be the carb for your engine. Before I would make any purchases for that engine I would contact Kawasaki at this...

If it has good spark, I suspect fuel blockage. I would disconnect the fuel line before the fuel filter and see if you can get a full quart to run out without stopping. If it continues to flow I would replace the filter and retest. If it will not run properly, I would be looking at cleaning...

I don’t think the coil moved, just think the marks you see are caused by garbage getting caught between the flywheel and coil. What would I do with it would depend on my relationship with the customer. Good friend and repeat customer, blow off the unit, check air gap and clean carb. If it...

I also am unable to locate that engine. Can you do two things for us. Take a picture of the ID tag on the engine and the ID tag on the Hustler.

No I’m not saying that. I’m saying they have helped me in the past when I couldn’t locate parts or manuals I needed. I have not worked with them for over 10 years, but asking them if they can help you is something I’ve learned from 50+ years of working on small engine equipment. By the way...

I think this might be the manual for your unit which might help in the future. It contains a parts breakdown for your unit. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/915905/Jacobsen-Lawn-Queen-21.html?page=7#manual. In the past I have found Jacobsen to be extremely helpful when trying to find NLA...

Both coils going out at the same time is highly suspicious. I’m wondering how they were checked and tested. Hopefully someone is not just throwing parts at it to see what sticks.

Don’t go biting the hand that’s trying to help you!!! Because of your misspelling (manor) I also took it for a motor starter. Have worked on one of those in 30+ years and cannot remember how they came apart. If I remember anything about these old mules they are not that difficult to repair...

Yes, the controls are very touchy. Trick I’ve learned when getting used to Z-turns, grab the handles so your thumbs are touching. This allows you to feel what each control is doing and shortens the learning curve. Also allows you to look forward instead of down as you learn to control the...

Reported

No, what you did was set the valve clearance properly. That procedure had very little to do with ACR. As Star stated, when you rotate the flywheel you should see a little intake valve movement as you approach TDC. If you see movement your ARC is probably working properly.

Don’t understand the last post???? Why do you need a cam kit?

Yes. Move the piston, up on the compression stroke, until you get to TDC. Continue moving the piston forward, NOT BACKWARDS, until the piston drops 1/4”. Now you set the valve clearance. I do one valve at a time. When I complete one valve I rotate the piston through four complete cycles and...

Reported

Can you provide us a pic showing how you have attached the cable to the engine? Depending on the setup it’s hard for us to give directions without guessing.

You need spark, fuel and compression to get the engine to run. Next time it happens remove the plug and see if it is wet. Dry means you’re not getting fuel. Then check for spark. An inline spark tester is best used for this, so you can check for spark under compression. As it runs cold I...

When you post the engine numbers as requested, also tell us if who have spark when you try hot restarting.

Google search. Jordan Mailata and Jesse Williams. Both Aussie rugby players who made the NFL

Parts 10-16 in the owners manual I posted. I’m not Santa Claus who knows which parts are good and bad, to tell you if they can be fabricated until we know what’s wrong. You’ll need to open it up.

If you have narrowed it down to those two, only one way to go, Bad Boy, but there are better ones out there than those two. Do a search on this forum, as this subject has been debated many times.

OK, but I’ve never seen a broken chain.

Looks like we have those that enjoy sports and those who don’t. I played high school football and volleyball, plus college basketball, too short and slow in high school for the coach, and enjoy watching games whenever I can. If you were really involved at a younger age, or had children and...

How difficult is it to repair? Depends On your mechanical ability. On a scale of 1-10, I would say a 5. Is this common? No, but with the age could easily happen. Broken chain? I doubt it, more than likely a problem with the shifter, as the tines are drive by the chain. I wouldn’t buy any...

Glad you told us you found the problem . Most guys never respond back, thank you.

Four weeks ago my neighbor asked me to get his 2006 Snow Pup with an R-Tech running. After cleaning and rebuilding the carb multiple times I told him the carb was so bad I couldn’t get it to run properly. Replacement carb was not available and he could run it, but it will run rough. He asked...

Might have a box of band aids, I’ve always needed at least 1, many sharp parts

Simple answer NO, unless you think three rolls of paper towels and large pan of parts cleaner are special.

Stick to one thread!!! Posting in two threads will get very confusing.

I probably rebuilt between 25-50 of those trannies over the past 50 years and they are not that difficult if you have the patience and room to lay all the parts out as you are taking it apart. If you reread this thread you will get a few pointers as what to look for and be careful of...

From my experience I would never buy parts listed on Amazon or Fleabay. You have a 50% chance of receiving parts which have been rejected by someone and the seller is selling them cheap to get a quick buck. I know some on this forum say I’m nuts (they may be right) but because I warranty my...

Did you check the condition of the negative cable and the negative cable to chassis ground connection? This ground connection needs to be very clean or you will not be able to get good current flow. If it is good, I would be checking valve clearancestors.

As you stated the illustration shows a bearing, but the parts list doesn’t. I know on many of the older Tecumseh engines which were used on snowblowers did use a ball bearing, but because I no longer have access to the paper parts drawings (yes I’m that old) I can’t tell you if your engine...

Most Tecumseh engines which had a bearing on the crankshaft used Tecumseh part number 31793

Manual I posted contains the procedure for testing the charging system.

As stated, rod knocks don’t come and go. Have you checked the blade for looseness? I would remove the blade and clean everything up good. Reinstall the blade, making sure it is tight and test run. Also, make sure that all engine to deck mounting bolts are tight.

I’m thinking that may be an error, which is why I suggest you contact your local dealer. They can contact Simplicity and find out if you can get the door.

The part you are looking for seems to only come as part of the mulch kit. Here is a site which covers the kit for your unit. I suggest you contact your Simplicity dealer and see if he can get you one without buying the full kit...

You have hydraulic lifters, no clearance. This service manual may help you. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Command-CV11-CV12.5-CV13-CV14-CV15-CV16-CV460-CV465-CV490-CV495.pdf

If you down load the owners manual it shows how to remove and install the deck. I’ve done it by myself many times, but it is always easier with an assistant. We don’t know you so it is had to tell you if you can do it yourself. As I’m north of 70 years old it is now harder to get up and down...

Please post the units model number so we can identify exactly which deck you have.

Please post the engine model and spec numbers. With them we can find out if you have solid tappers or hydraulic lifters. If you have hydraulic lifters there will be no clearance.

A SKILLED technician can get RPMS and TORGUE pretty close using the ears and touch. That said when you are charging for your services you want to use the appropriate tools to get even closer. We don’t want it coming back because we were only close. As I always told my students, “Never time to...

A VibraTach is not placed on the crank, but can be placed anywhere on the engine.

Never heard of that brand, but from what you posted I would agree that you have a carb problem. Recommend you remove the carb and give it a good cleaning. Remember that with these f brand units parts may be hard to come by, so be careful you don’t damage any parts when disassembling it.

I’ve never checked stator resistance, but this manual may help you. https://www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_replacement.pdf

I just have been doing it for many years and learned how to do it. Having the right size pan helps a lot. If you think about what you are doing you can do it too.

Don’t comment unless you have done it wrong. The only time gas leaks out is if you have a full gas tank. Smart guys know to tip the unit with the carb up so no gas leaks out. Been doing this for years and the only time I get a mess is when I do it without my brain engaged.

Before you set your labor rate you should consider your expenses, as well as your expectations. 1. What are your electrical expenses for a day? Let’s say $20.00 2. What are your heating/cooling expenses for a day? Let’s say $20.00 3. What are you supply expenses for a day? Let’s say $5.00...

Reported

Reported

There is no oil drain plug. Oil is either removed using a suction pump or I just tip the mower on its site and drain into a 2” baking pan I stole from my better half.

Sorry, but I don’t torque sump bolts. I just make sure I use a new gasket and double check to make sure that are tight. Even if you are removing the sump, I would make sure I’ve got most of the corrosion off the crankshaft for easy removal.

Tecumseh part #27897, should run about $5.00. Before you remove the old seal make sure that the crankshaft is sand shiny and smooth. When installing new seal wrap the shaft with Clingwrap to prevent cutting it while you slide it in place.

Try removing the main jet and make sure the orifices in both the nozzle and jet are completely open. Run a piece of tag wire through each hole. I use my micro number drills but most individuals do not have them. DO NOTUSE TORCH TIP CLEANERS!!! You will find this jet in the pick up tube...

I use a lawn sweeper every year after dethatching the lawn and it work great as a cleanup. The thing that you must remember is that the longer the cut grass is, the better job a sweeper will do. If you are cutting and sweeping every week, you may not achieve the results you want as the...

There are no individual parts available for that carb. What exactly is wrong.

Please post the model and serial numbers for the engine and unit you are working on. To answer your question we must know the year of the engine.

That engine uses a ball bearing, so I would recommend changing the crankshaft seal only. Being 20+ years old it has probably dried out and cracked. I call those engine “MULES” because if you treat them right with a sugar cube ever so often, they will serve you for a long time.