Recent content by Rivets

I still have rigid hones when I’m deglazing a cylinder but found it cheaper to send rebores out. I get about one total rebuild about once a year. Dealers around here call me, because they don’t want to tie up their young guys, who have very little experience with rebuilding. Win, win for...

I’ve always taught the ring end gap should be 120 degrees apart if you have a single oil ring and 180 degrees apart if you have a three piece oil ring. With a three piece oil ring, you position the oil scraper ring gaps 180 degrees apart, 90 degrees from the compression ring gaps. This way all...

The T2290 is not a commercial unit, just a good high end residential unit for customers with over 1.5 acres of cutting. I’m not saying that I recommend them to the average guy. The OP just asked for input on the T2290.

Take a look at section 9 page 4 of this old manual. May be of some help. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ycG8wd0s3Z2Q2X00/view?resourcekey=0-RR_vAYAb20QSKce3w_MYcw

Don’t know where you guys go for cutting and boring. The last one I sent out last October to be resized cost me $300. That was for two rebores .010” over, two heads resurfaced, and 2 crank journals cut .010 undersized. Been going to the same shop since the 80’s and only time I had a problem...

Just looked up the bearings and seals for a 2500 series tranny. I can find that 99% of the parts are still available through any shop which purchases Tecumseh parts.

Wish I lived close by to pick it up at that price.

If properly maintained it will outlast today’s el cheapo’s more than triple, especially in rough operating conditions. That’s why I said, “if you can swing the extra cost”. You’re buying a quality unit, not one you’ll replace before the Kubota gets broken in.

I would follow IL’s advice. The only time I consider to do a rebuild is when I can not get a replacement engine to repower a good piece of equipment.

In my opinion I always recommend the Kubota T series to anyone looking for a residential tractor if they can swing the extra money over the cheaper Big Box tractors. Quality of build and longevity of the mower will pay for itself in the long run. You’re looking at a fabricated deck, Kawasaki...

OP says he has a primer, so no choke. Before you replace coil see if you have spark when trying to start unit when hot. As Bert said telling us the model, type and code numbers would help your cause.

You have a mower which has a broken bolt and bad bearing after only 6 months use? If it were me I’d be talking to Lowe’s about warranty service. There is something else wrong for a bolt and bearing to fail in that length of time. You’re probably not going to get free parts to install...

Are you asking about a T series Kubota lawn tractor or a T2200 floor scraper powered by a Kubota engine? To my knowledge T2200 is not a Kubota model number.

If it is a 2021 model, the model number for the unit is 21199. This model uses Briggs engine model number 121S020130F1. I’m thinking you need the choke return spring, part number 799179.

The picture of the carb you posted, is That your actual carb or one that you think looks like your carb? The reason I ask is the brass screw you’ve circled, in my opinion, is not an idle adjusting screw, but an idle jet. Remove the screw and tell us if it comes to a point or has a hole in the...

Star you can’t have it both ways. You dont want to pay federal taxes, but you want the government to pay you? Why should I and millions of others who pay their taxes and social security give money to those who refuse to do so. We may not like the rules or laws, but we still must follow them...

Now you have started a new thread, because this is a totally different problem. This may not get you the help you are looking for. Three things I would be looking into. First is valve clearance. Second would be checking if the spark is still consistent and steady under load. Third, would be...

Only you are able to answer that question. I am not standing next to each unit to see how it looks or runs. Your best source to answer that question is your local Kubota guy, there again how much do you trust your local guy? Finally, hours on a unit mean very little in my opinion. How the...

If it came to me I would remove the carb, ultrasonic clean it and rebuild it.

This should help you out. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ycG8wd0s3Z2Q2X00

Buying used equipment is a crap shoot, many times you get other peoples problems. Sounds like both units need service work and depending on how far you want to go, you easily be to the $750-$1000 in added costs to your purchase price. That being said Kubota makes good units, but if I new they...

I would take it back to the dealer if it is still under warranty. Unit was not setup properly, cable too tight, belt not releasing, or wheel gears jamming. Any of these can cause the problem, especially if it is a steel deck.

You blame whom ever you like, but fuel increases aren‘t caused by one individual in the last year. Year ago we had 50% less drivers on the road due to the pandemic. We used less fuel so industry reduced production. Hurricane shut down refinery in the south, which is still down. All these...

Good catch on the smash plate geelee.

This video should answer all your questions.

Very little melting of the insulation, because I’m not heating the cable until I insert it into the lug. Because I’ve clean and fluxed both lug and cable, capillary action makes the cable solid and fuses it to the lug. Had a guy question my results so I showed him how I did it, then cut a...

I really doubt that I’ve had any registered effect on the environment over the last 50 years doing it this way. One badly tuned push mower, used one season, is probably worse for the environment than all the lugs I’ve soldered.

I use solid core solder used by plumbers. My dad was a pipe fitter and I started soldering copper pipe when I was 10. What I do is clean the inside of the lug with emery cloth, fill the lug with flux paste, heat the lug with a propane torch until it is liquid then stick the clean cable into...

Not as rare as you might think.

Seeing that you don’t supply us with the engine numbers I’m guessing here. Normally the diaphragm goes against the carb and the gasket against the tank. Saying yes to all questions tells me you want a fast solution and can’t take the time to provide us with a better picture of what is...

I don’t crimp at all. I’ve found that using the correct size lug and then clean, flux and solder the connections works best for me.

See if any of these sites have the info you need. https://www.agrisupply.com/images/art/040-041.pdf...

Personally I would use what ever the manual calls for. Not going to get into a contest about which is better.

Cable is on the outside. Remove air cleaner cover and look at the carb for dirt ingestion. See dirt walk away. If it starts and runs I would offer $30 and roll the dice. This is a quality unit.

These are the steps I use. 1. Loosen the drive cable on the handle and then unhook the drive cable from the traction bail. 2. Tip the mower on its side, carb up. 3. Remove the blade. 4. Remove the blade adapter, which will now allow the belt to be free. 5. You should now be able to tip...

If you registered the unit any Toro dealership can do warranty service on it, which is the route I recommend.

Remove the spark plug, tie back the blade brake handle, tip the mower on it’s side carb up. You should now be able to turn the blade very easily and be able to locate the problem. Watch the center to see if it is wobbling or turning concentric. If it’s turning concentric you got lucky and...

I know this service manual is not for your unit, but it should help you out. They all work about the same. https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/aa/aa2f51f7-2e14-44fc-b748-a0d061570e3e.pdf

Do a google search with this title, “how to install deck on a kubota tg1860”. You’ll find “OrangeTractorTalks” which will probably give you more info than you need.

Being that the ZD18 has not been built since 2006 I’ve got a few suggestions. Have you checked to see if the fuel filter is full when the problem occurs? When was the last time the fuel filters were changed? Have you ever changed the fuel lines? They may be collapsing, restricting fuel flow...

Here’s a service manual and parts breakdown for your engine. On the parts tree site you’ll need to add your 4 digit spec number to get the correct engine...

Not worth my time to “research“ a I’m starter than you contest. Going to look for threads where members need help.

You believe what you want, but a thinner fluid will splash differently than a thicker fluid. I don’t need to research anything to prove that. As stated, everyone will have to make their own decision.

First thing you need to check, is the float level set properly and is the float needle and seat working properly together to shut off the amount of fuel entering the carb.

Before trying to make any adjustments, first check the condition of the belt. I’ve found that most times a bad belt is th most common cause. More than three years old, I would consider replacing it. When you post back please include the model and serial numbers for your unit and I’ll see if a...

Rocket, you have to remember that everything you see or read on the internet is the absolute truth. That includes what Bert, you, bobistheoilguy, Taryl, myself and every other person who speaks what they feel is the truth based on their knowledge and why they are posting their information...

I’d vote on blown head gasket.

Please post the numbers stamped on the original carb.

Maybe this manual will help you out. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ybHphbUNTQUNNR2s/view?resourcekey=0-Pkm8cxbmR_4jPh46viFQtg

You are correct that those long bolts are normally use on most PTO systems, but this unit uses a simple stacked pulley, where I’ve seen shorter bolts with that heavy flat and lock washers used.

Now I’ve taken a closer look I believe you are correct. With that size washer and lock washer, plus his symptoms, I’m wondering if it might be a PTO bolt.

Show us a picture of what you are talking about. Will be easier for us to help you.

Remove the kill wire from the coil and retest. If you still have no spark, I would be replacing the coil.

I would be double checking everything on the deck. Blades, belt, spindles, pulleys and how clean the underside of the deck is. Is the deck shuddering or the deck? This will tell you where to start you search.

Underneath.

Looks to me like it is a metric bolt and painted white. This may be a clue where it would come from. Make sure you are looking at the top and underneath the unit.

I would start by removing the deck, jack up the rear end and with the transmission in gear turn the large pulley by hand see if the wheels turn faster and slower as you change gears. Check the belt tensioner, making sure in tightens the belt properly when releasing the clutch pedal. What is...

I normally place the jack under the transmission.

First thing to triple check, is the belt routed properly? Second, did you get the correct belt? Have someone what the engage belt with the engine off and your watching what is happening. Can’t find anything wrong, try installing the old belt and see if it makes a difference. If you need...

Float needle is not seating properly. Rebuild and clean carb with a new needle and seat.

This engine has a Nikki carb, superseded to part number 594593.

Look under the sheet metal on the handle Which holds the throttle and choke controls.

Another cause I’ve found for this problem is a worn belt.

Really sounds to me like a fuel delivery problem. If you are sure that everything a posted is good, then I would recheck valve clearance. If the valve clearance is good I would reclean the carb and install a rebuild kit. When you post back include all engine numbers.

Sounds like you have one of three possible causes for this lean running condition. 1. Main nozzle plugged. Did you remove the main nozzle and jet before you put it in the cleaner? Have seen many times they will not cleaner properly without removing. 2. Did you check that the float height...

I’ve been doing this for to many years and when it can’t be repaired I restock my “I think I should save this” cabinets and covered parts trays. (Everything is categorized and labeled, as at my age I‘ve forgotten more than I know) Not only a learning experience, but these used parts have...

Just a suggestion, but an opportunity for a learning experience. If you are purchasing a new starter, save the old one. Tear it down when you have time and see if you can find a problem and reassemble. Most common problem I’ve found is commutator is carboned up and brushes worn. Reassembly...

I’m pretty sure that this starter is going to be for a Toro engineered engine built by Loncin. If I’m correct there are NO replacement parts available for this starter, except for the starter drive. If the starter really spins, but the bendix doesn’t kick out, you may just have to replace the...

As you found out Lawn Boy doesn’t show the reed valve assembly separately. Here are some part numbers, hopefully you can tell which one you have when you do a search using these numbers.. 682046. 683383. 602538.

Have you checked to see if choke is fully opening?

From his post I’d say Prep-H

You reopen this 5 year old thread and make a comment like that. You think we are not thread brightest guys around, but proves you’re a whole lot dumber that 99% of the members on this forum. Please crawl back into the Port-a-potty you call home, because you seem like someone who has spent a...

You now need to figure out if it is a spark or fuel problem. When hot are both plugs firing? Have you tried starting when hot by spraying some carb cleaner directly into the carb air horn? I’m thinking you may have a bad coil. When you post back, include all engine numbers.

Personally I would for go a clamp on Amp accessories. Couldn’t tell you the last time I used one while doing small engine work, if ever.

Any of the Klein or Triplett brands will work fine for your needs. Do a google search and you will find them at Lowes, Menards, Tractor Supply, Home Depot stores.

You’ll find that wiring setup on 95% of units under $15,000. Good dealer should be able to do that repair under 30 minutes.

Please don’t take this wrong, but being that far off you’re either doing something wrong or you have a broken part somewhere. Please try again with an assistant and following the steps to the T. These decks are not the easiest to level, but remember patience is your friend.

Steps 5- 9 are the most critical. Most DIY guys can’t keep the chains tight without an assistant. When you have completed all the steps, what is the difference in deck height between the front and back?

Is this the manual and instructions you used to level the deck? I’m assuming that you made sure that you were on a level concrete surface, tires inflated properly and the blocks of wood you had were just under the anti-scalp brackets and not the deck. ...

That looks like factory wiring to me. I’m thinking that the purple wires were not properly installed into the connector.

This wiring diagram may help.

Post the model and serial numbers for the unit, as the wiring harness will be addressed as part of the unit, not engine.

That’s only used by the commercial guys who get paid by the job.

Two things. Reset the air gap at .010” and test for spark with the kill wire removed from the coil. If you have spark, reattach the kill wire and retest. If will get spark with no kill wire and no spark with kill wire attached, your kill wire is shorting to ground somewhere. If no spark...

Do a search using this in the forum search box, “Briggs 500 series engine”. You will find it under the magnifying glass in the upper right hand corner. This problem has been seen multiple times and you should be able to find a solution, without us rehashing it again. If you can’t solve the...

Go through the charging system checks in this manual and post back with your findings. https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/pub/SM_3269003_KT715_KT725_KT730_KT735_KT740_KT745_REVISED_7_15E.pdf

Just make sure that you tell him “You can repair everything but stupid, because the repair kit to fix stupid is not yet available and you have no idea where you can get one.”

Kohler part number is 1685319S for the Walbro carb for your engine.

And your questions is???

As the posts suggest, 1.5-4 hours. Depending on what they find after cleaning and testing the unit. Lower oil seals many times are blamed for blown head gaskets, as both can result in oil pooling under the engine.

I may be wrong, but that does not look like an OEM carb to me?? Kohler uses either Walbro or Keilin carbs and they normally have their names cast into the carb body. Did you purchase this carb off Evilbay or Amazon? If so, I’m guessing you have a Waldron knockoff.

Sorry, fingers are too big, my mistake.

I’ve always used a good multi purpose grease, never any thing special. We’re not talking about a lot of heat or wear, never had any failures I can attribute to the wrong lube.

After doing a little more research, it seems that the Sycamore mower was made by Falls Products Company at Genoa, Illinois. They also made mowers with several different brand names such as Falls and Roto-Clipper. From what I have been able to read, it seems the Sycamore brand was sold at K-Mart...

300707 and 294777 are two different engines, but they do take the same solenoid #807774 the engine was manufactured before 7-1-98. I did google that number and it is available, but don’t know if it is available outside the US.

Here’s a possible manual for your engine, no manual for the unit. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1yZHlwUk9CWlNwYVE/view?resourcekey=0-gmNg1Y_7I67OqGINles6Bw

Please post the type and code numbers for your engine. There are two different possible solenoids used on the engine.

I always remove the deck for cleaning. Give me a chance to inspect belts, pulleys, spindles, blades, etc. it also allows me to inspect the drive belts and tensioner, plus lubricate everything.

If you want help you are going to have to supply us with a lot more information. We are no psychic and need things like model and serial numbers for the unit, model and serial numbers for the engine and even a few pics would be helpful.

Try this. When cold remove one spark plug wire and trying starting, if it starts replace and repeat on the other side. If it will not start when open side is removed, the other side is bad. If both sides start repeat when engine is hot. Causes for one side going bad are many. Bad plug or...

I agree with Bert on this one. I use copper based on everything but stainless.

Here is a testing procedure I use to find non starting problems. Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1. * How well you understand basic electricity. 2. *What tools you have and know how to use. 3. *How well you follow directions. 4. *You don't...

I’m guessing the fuel solenoid is stuck in the closed position. I would shut off the fuel and remove the solenoid. To check apply 12 VDC positive lead to the wire and touch the negative lead to the body. If the plunger doesn’t move spray it with carb cleaner, work the plunger in and out by...

We don’t want any blood, this is any education site.

Sounds like you have a lean running condition under load. You have an adjustable carb on that engine, so before tearing into the carb I would open the high speed mixture screw about a 1/4 turn allowing more fuel to entire the cylinder under load, to see if anything changes. Also, check to see...

First I would check all the wires, looking for a cracked or scored wire shorting to ground, which is the most common cause of blown fuses. Make sure you remove the shroud, as critters love to build nests and chew on wires there. Finding all wires good use this manual to test all parts of the...

This is more entertaining than the Funny Picture thread.

No. Let me get this straight. To get more horsepower from an engine you need to add more fuel and run a hotter plug. That means if I use a colder plug and decrease the amount of fuel I put in a cyLinder, I may lose a little horsepower, but will save money. In the push mower and lawn tractor...

And everyone must remember that things you find while searching the internet are absolutely accurate, fact and true. Never doubt them. Why stop now, this is entertaining and I haven’t had this much fun since I retired from the classroom.

Simple reply. Do you truly believe that this guy is spouting facts, which apply to all products of a particular brand? I would have thought that a person as intelligent as you profess could find a better source to base your assumptions on. I can understand why you post assumptions based on...

Sirmowsalot your quote, “My post with respect to Champion plugs was a solution to a problem.” Is exactly right. You had a problem and found a solution. I have agreed with you that a bad plug could have been the cause of the problem, end of story. If you would have stopped right there this...