Recent content by Rivets

It’s not even three full days, you low on patience, like we should jump for you? Do you have any ideas how many models Toro built using a Suzuki engine? If it is a two cycle engine try model 20581. If it is a four cycle engine try model 26622. The engine Is Suzuki, so try googling Toro...

I know it’s a lot of work to go get those numbers, so I’ll give you this clue as what to look for and then will be ignoring this thread, as you sound you know more than me. After you adjusted the valve clearance, did you relap the valves? 60 psi is low for those older engines, did you check it...

Sounds like privet spring has lost its tension, common as the unit ages. Two things you need to check. One, are the pivot arm assemblies being held tight against the mower deck. They are held in place by an E-clip and I have found that as the unit ages the groove that the clip goes into...

Sounds like you have a timing problem. According to the manual I has a solid state ignition module and the air gap should be.030”. This manual may be of some help...

Please post the type and code numbers. Need to figure out it you have a pulsa-jet or vacu-jet carb.

If you post the model and serial numbers of the mower we might be able to help you.

You haven’t look everywhere. Look under the sheet metal cover on the handle. Should find the model number and serial number. Suzuki engine, not difficult to clean, get a rebuild kit first, might not be available in your area.

If my memory is any good I believe that the old Tecumseh flat heads the flywheel did not have to be replaced when converting to solid state ignition.

Donb, if the engine started smoking and liquid coming out of the muffler, this is a symptom of a rich running condition. No need to replace the carb, just a need to give it a little TLC, a good cleaning and rebuilding. Don’t waste your money on a clone carb for a thirty year old engine. You...

Have not seen any post like that. Have you checked out the Nova II Module?

Did you look at the parts manual I enclosed?

The engine in the video was posted in 2015, i used the info which was posted Saturday. Another reason why I hate it when people hyjack threads and on top of that don’t post model and serial numbers. We both could be right and we both could be wrong.

Sorry I can’t help you, as I’ve got no way of knowing the seat or kit you are talking about. Maybe there’s a Gravely tech on this forum.

Here’s where I got my info. https://www.toro.com/en-GB/parts/partdetails/?id=40406

If you have the part number for the kit, google that number for a parts and installation manual, which should answer your questions. If that doesn’t work, go to your dealer and post your questions to them.

Tip the unit on it’s nose and remove the bottom panel. This will allow you to see what parts a moving and those that are not. My guess is that your drive wheel is extremely worn and no longer making contact with the drive disc. This manual may be of some help...

The Toro model 74633 Timecutter uses a Kohler engine, not Kawasaki, but the solution is the same. Replace the bendix drive.

In my time on this forum and others I’ve found that if you are a service tech you need to have very tight skin. Too many times DYI guys come here and because they had a similar problem once, and fixed it, that is the best solution. They fail to read the entire thread and try to come off as “I...

Leaf vacuum’s and chippers use a tapered shaft, while mowers use a straight shaft. You’ll have to find an engine off a vacuum or chipper.

First of all, are you sure you posted the correct model number. I can find NO Lawn Boy model 10865, but due find a model 10685. Very tough for us to give you an estimate or ball park number, as we don’t know what’s wrong either. From your description I would say the drive belt is probably...

We are going to need a picture of that washer and a better description of what you all disassembled, what you where doing when the washer appeared. Without this we are at a loss as to what to advise you.

Post the mowers model and serial numbers so we can identify which engine you have. Also, post a picture of the washer, so we can tell whether it came from the engine, carb or mower.

Star, just to let you know those are the same number which were posted in the OP’s other thread. Have no idea why he is posting duplicate threads, unless he needs to hear things multiple times before he understands what to do.

You want more than a few good tradesmen in your area, do your part. Every time you find a good one, become their biggest advocate. If we keep bad mouthing the tradesmen, it will only get worse, as the next generation will hear you and not want to enter the trades. Aren’t we starting to see...

Bkeller, you make some valuable points, but you missed one key one. Every professional is deeply invested in themselves in their chosen occupation. It may be thousands of dollars in education, thousands of dollars in capital equipment, thousands of dollars in tools, etc. Take a look in the...

Now you’ve started a second thread with the same problem. Your symptoms indicate the float needle is not seating properly. Solution is the same, clean and rebuild the carb or replace the carb. Now we can add change the oil and filter to your list.

Sounds like a bad drive belt. When was the last time you changed it?

I may be totally wrong, but is the belt guide by the stack pulley mounted in the proper location? I normally see the belt going straight back to the deck pulley. Just a thought.

Going to show my age, but to answer your question, yes Tecumseh can be converted to solid state ignition. Back in the late 70’s and early 80’s I did a few using a Nova ignition kit. I just goggle it and supposedly there is still and updated kit available. Do a google search for “Electronic...

Duh, I‘m out of this thread as you know more than me. I’ve tried to help you combine different systems, but you don’t understand my posts, so I’m done trying to explain a possible solution. Good Luck in your search.

That size and type of tire is high on my list of difficult ones to replace. Because of the stiff side walls and small size means you will be fighting, cussing and end up going to the shop in the end. Decision is up to you.

Talk about a loaded question??? Lot of variables. Engine bland and size, unit brand and size, OEM or aftermarket parts, urban or rural location, part of the country, charge by job or hour, experience of the mechanic, etc. Best I can tell you is our hourly rate. $75.00 for the brands we...

Gotcha, I just blank out and never check old numbers when I see a superseded number. Thank you.

Scrub, can you tell me where the two of us came up with different part numbers. I used partstree also. 2008 and 2009 use the same carb. https://www.partstree.com/models/2100-31am2p5b711-troy-bilt-squall-21-snow-thrower-2008/engine-assembly-2/

First of all get a new repair shop. Either the one you went to either has no idea of what they are doing or have never worked on any MTD equipment. Personally I think both are true, with an emphasis on the first one. From the numbers you supplied you have a 2009 Troy-Bilt Squall 21" Snow...

The hanger you have is part of Lawn Boy bagger kit 89817. The bag for that kit is 89816, which is upgraded to a three hole mount.

The carb might be Kawasaki part number 15003-S005, if your model number is TK036-AG24. Just a guess.

Ok, I think I’ve got this figured out. The bagger in the MyTractor forum is not the OEM side bagging used on a 10525 model, but one adapted from an different model. The side bagging system for a 10525 should be kit number 89817, which uses bag number 89816. From your postings I’m assuming...

Experience has taught me that using a Chinese clone carb very seldom works, especially on two cycle equipment. That is the reason I always replace with OEM.

Could your model number be 51987? The serial number you provided does not show up in the data base I have, but does show in the 51987. That unit has a carb part number of 308480001. The model 51988 was first produced in 2015, while the model 51987 was produced in 2013.

Post a picture of your old bag.

Check out a Toro timecutter ss4225, specs say 73.1”

First mistake, you are assuming all operating systems are the same. Wrong!!!??? NEVER assume anything. From experience I have found that making any assumptions when troubleshooting will get me into trouble and delay progress. Things must be tested and tested again, before knowing if it is...

That’s the number I listed in post #2. Just type the number into your search engine and you should find a picture and source.

A few things come to mind as I read your post. 1. OEM carb Toro part number 308480002, can be found for less than $30.00 2. Have you checked to make sure the intake gaskets are in excellent condition and tight? If not they may not seal as the engine warms up and expands causing an air leak...

Type in your model and serial numbers on this website and you will find which bagging system was used on your unit. https://www.shoplawnboy.com/Comergent/en/US/adirect/Toro?cmd=ToroOnlineModelLookupSearch&search=model&OP=filter

Try part numbers 89800 or 89801. Only three bags which came with that model number, depending on serial number.

Do you have engine numbers? Would make it a lot easier to identify the carb.

Try Lawn Boy #89816.

You coming back with something worth while, or you just acting like a feral tomcat? Do click on it, we won’t miss you.

Sounds like a blown head gasket to me. If you are going to attempt this yourself I would take the time to do both, as you will have most parts disassembled to do one. If you post all engine numbers and a couple of pictures of the engine, I’ll see if I can find a service manual for you.

When you post back include ALL engine numbers.

Briggs part number 794360 https://www.partstree.com/models/44s977-0045-g1-briggs-stratton-vertical-engine

You asked for help, now you criticize short answers??? You’ve had 3 very experienced service technicians give you answers as to where to look, but have not listened to them, because they don’t explain in depth how to do what you want. You just think that someone who’s trying to make money off...

I’ve read through the posts and like Bert said, stop over thinking the problem. You’ve been watching to many different videos and from my experience most aren’t worth the time it took to make them. Starting with a blown head gasket would have been the first and cheapest place to start with the...

Remove the spark plugs and try to rotate the engine by hand. If you can’t rotate by hand you have an internal problem. If you can rotate by hand, by the starter again. If it will not rotate with starter, check your battery voltage, should be 12.2-13.6 DCV

What do the blades look like? I’ll bet they’re shot.

Dont see anything wrong with that breather, back to what I said earlier, blown head gasket. You can purchase the gasket individually, no need to purchase a kit.

From the pics you posted and your description, I would be checking for a blown head gasket.

Maybe these two manuals will help you out. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FH451V-FH480V-FH500V-FH531V-FH541V-FH580V-FH601V-FH641V-FH661V-FH680V-FH680V-FH721V-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL--99924-2078-01.pdf...

Model number please.

Is the model number TY21SM? If not please post the model number. Have you checked to see if the drive gear pin, by the rear wheels, is in and not broken?

If the float is level, you then have a partially plugged jet in the carb. This would lead me to cleaning the carb again and checking all openings you can find and spraying through them with carb cleaner. Also double check that intake manifold for other cracks or leaking manifold to block...

First thing you need to do is to check all electrical connections, making sure they are clean and tight. Don’t forget the ground to chassis connection. Second you need to have the battery load tested to find out if it is really good. Your local auto parts store normally does this for free...

First thing I would be testing the key switch, not replacing it. What you are looking for is continuity between the G (ground) terminal and the M (magneto) terminal, with the key in the OFF position. Second thing I would check is continuity between the connector of coil kill and the key...

First thing to do is what Scrub said, check the float level, I’m willing to bet from your description that you will find that the float is lower on the side opposite of the pin, creating a lean starting and running condition.

This service manual may be of some help. https://isavetractors.com/content/BRIGGS%20%26%20STRATTON%20Repairman%27s%20Handbook%20engines%201919-1981%20CE8069.pdf

Please provide us with the model and serial numbers for both the unit and engine so we have some idea of what unit you are talking about. Due to COVID all service techs on this forum have lost their ESP abilities and we really hates wasting time guessing at possible solutions.