Recent content by Rivets

Grinding valve stems to adjust valve clearance by a DIY can take 15-30 minutes, if he has the patience to do it slowly. Get them to the low end of the tolerance (.004” intake .009” exhaust) and then reinstall with springs. I grind a little, then push down hard with my thumb and measure...

If you removed the crankshaft and the camshaft, you probably dropped the lifters. When you reinstalled them you may have switched them around, changing the valve clearance. No matter what you do you will have to remove the valves and reset the valve clearances. Many DIY mechanics try to just...

Ok, I tried. Since you have no more to tell us, I’ll just take a couple of guesses, maybe I’ll get lucky. My first guess wrong belt. Toro part number 114433, or did you use an aftermarket belt. Did the problem show up suddenly or over slowly get worse. Second, pulleys worn. You don‘t say...

Go to this website, you can be a service manual for your tranny which may help. If not post back with everything you have tried. https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=2672

Look next to the spark plug wire, you’ll find the engine numbers stamped into the metal shroud. Post those number, there will be a model type and code. We will then be able to help you out.

Could be the flywheel key, but I’m guessing you may have broken the connecting rod. Remove the spark plug and insert a wooden pencil or dowel into the spark plug hole as far as you can. Slowly turn the flywheel by hand and watch the pencil. If it moves I’m wrong, but if it doesn’t move...

If this guy is running a business, he was just looking at you like a fool. I would spread the word after you get it fixed, because he has probably done this to others. He’s either a crook or at best an extremely poor DYI. Like Scrub said we need more info. Along with the engine numbers...

Congratulations, I guess I got lucky on this one. Sorry I didn’t catch my mistake earlier, would have saved you a lot of time.

I’ve reread this thread and I think I’ve found your problem. You stated the the engine is not stock, which is probably the problem. Who ever installed the engine has not attached the control cables properly. The problem I have is that I’m not standing there to solve the screwup, and it will be...

Stop, your first picture shows what’s wrong. The upper cable, I’m assuming the throttle control cable, should NOT be attached to the governor arm. I’m try to locate a good picture as to where to attach it. I or some else will have a pic. Is the top cable your throttle control cable and the...

Can you take some pictures of all the linkages, so we can see if you’re missing any springs and have it hooked up correctly. Resize you pics to medium or small to post.

RPM change when you put a load on the engine is an indication that the governor is working, if the RPMs drop when the load is applied and then come back quickly. Thinking your engine is running to fast and trying to adjust the RPMs by ear is very tricky and I don’t recommend doing it this way...

Sorry, to tell you the truth I’ve never had one apart, but I would probably glue it together as they are normally a non repairable part.

Remove the fuel line from the pump to the carb, at the carb. Have an assistant try starting the engine while you hold the line in a glass bottle or jar. Pump about 3-5 oz. into the container. If you have no fuel, your problem is in the fuel delivery system. If you have fuel, problem is in...

Sorry, but reading your post I’ve got more questions than answers. Remember we are not standing next to you, so you must paint us a better picture of what is happening. Once we can see what is happening, we should be able to help you out. First, can you measure your RPMs? “Seems to me to be...

Takes some pictures of everything, so we have a clue as to what you have. I can look up the tractor, but the possibilities are out of sight.

Two things I check first. First, what is the battery voltage? Second, if the battery voltage is 11 VDC or better, I remove, clean and reinstall battery all 4 cable connections. I’m assuming you have set the parking brake and the PTO is OFF. If no goof results you can try going through this...

To us old farts caps are difficult to read and sound like you are shouting at us. Worse yet is all caps and bold, those I ignore.

51 volts is way out of line. Are you sure that your regulator is grounded. Many techs run a separate ground wire to make sure. Going through the tests in this manual...

Your stator voltage seems low to me. What are your engine numbers so I can verify.

Have you looked at the valves themselves. Sounds to me like you may have an intake valve which is either slightly bent or a valve guide which has carbon buildup. Either case would cause the valve to stick as soon as they get warm.

As soon as you sent the mower down either the belt starts to slip or in your case the piñon and bevel gears are to worn to stay engaged. One other case may be that you don’t have the traction cable adjusted properly. Shows you how to do this is your owners manual. I do know what you have...

Here is a copy of the manual which shows the belt routing and spring locations. Hope this helps. http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/manuals/769-02708a.pdf

Same with cylinder appearance. Always taught my students that the spark plug will tell you a lot about what is happening ing the cylinder.

I used to work on those units years ago. These two sites might have what you are looking for, but no guarantees. I understand your frustration, hope you get lucky. http://www.partsfortechs.com/asapcart/ https://www.ppe-pressure-washer-parts.com/search?searchwords=0G3231&search_607939471=

Think about this. I have one spark plug that is light brown after running for 25 hrs. I have another plug that is black after running for 25 hrs. Which engine would you say is running properly?

Don’t you just love electrical troubleshooting. Sorry, just kidding. The first thing I would check is the key switch, Remember there are different switch, which look the same, but won’t work. Give us the model and serial numbers of the unit and we can give you part numbers.

This is a Landscaping company out of Florida, who must have a lot of time on their hands, if they have time to do multiple testing and reviews like this. Wouldn’t put much credence in it.

Have someone watch the PTO clutch when you turn the PTO switch on. If the clutch starts spinning, it is good and you probably have a belt or belt routing issue. If you post back include the model and serial numbers of the unit so we can see what you are talking about. Do you have the owners...

Not a problem, just didn’t want someone else to think it was rear wheel. Just would like to see how the OP will install screws in those tire. Will probably look like the studded snow tires we used to have in Wisconsin in the fifties. Dug in but really tore up the roads.

Should tell you in the owners manual. Look under the muffler for release levers.

Totally agree with Bert, but will add one thing. Cross that Toro dealer off your list, he makes us look bad, and his techs are plug and play.

Type in 20X8X8 turf tire in google and you’ll find plenty.

I’m betting you are missing the last number in the model number you posted. Probably a 1 or 2. With the full number go to Sears Parts Direct and enter your new model number, should be able to find the parts you need.

More than likely you have a bent valve stem. This would mean replacing the valve, cutting the valve seat, grinding the valve stem to set clearance, lapping the valve and then assembling everything with a new head gasket.

Tom this Toro is a rear wheel drive mower.

You have a 15 year old engine, on a $1.98 mower. I’m will to bet you have a sticking valve and possibly a mouse nest under the shroud. This nest would cause your engine to over heat, which could easily be the cause of your problem. Ask yourself, How much $$$ do I want to spend. If you remove...

When you install the new battery make sure you check to see if the charging system is working properly. Might be the reason battery is bad.

1/4” past TDC makes sure your settings are not affected by the compression release.

You can do what you want, but that drive is not off a quad for knobby tires. If those tires don’t spin on grass, knobbies won’t either. It’s either the gears or the belt tension is not adjusted properly. You don’t have to believe me, but I did one like that this past summer.

First check your drive gear and wheel gear. They need to be in good condition. This manual may also help. https://www.toro.com/getpub/22446

I’m thinking you have the two small wires on the solenoid hooked up backwards. Check out this manual. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FD440V-FD501V-FD590V-FD611V-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL.pdf

I set the clearance slightly larger so when I do the final tightening they end up where I want them. + or - .001” will work fine.

Depending on how old the engine is, it could be the clip which was pressed on a casting fin, to keep the wires from contacting moving parts. As IL stated, numbers and a picture would help us help you.

That is a good part number. You should be able to order that part from any good Toro dealer. Can I ask why you are replacing the entire spindle assembly, which is very expensive. Normally just rebuild them.

Definitely need to have it serviced by your dealer. At 29 hrs. this is far from normal and you may have multiple problems. Even after you get it back I would keep a very close eye on it.

If you have a GX345, John Deere part #BM20781 should fit. You will have to order through a John Deere dealer so take you units model and serial numbers with you to double check. If they agree and it doesn’t work, you will have some recourse when returning it.

Should have no play in the spindle shafts. Did you purchase this new? If so I suggest you have it serviced under warranty. Can you provide us with the model and serial numbers so we can see the deck.

I do agree with Scrub and Bert, not your best bet buying cheap aftermarket parts. Just didn’t know how low you were thinking when you balked at Jack’s prices. Have found the OEM part available at HomeDepot for $67.00.

Have you check the spark when hot starting. Might have a coil going bad.

No special tools needed to swap out the cam. Your hardest part will be getting the pulley off the crankshaft. I’ve found that cam for less than $45.00. This manual may help if you decide to tackle the job. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ybEN0LWo3azl6OUU

Count the number of links on both chains. This will tell you if they are the same. If the new chain is shorter, a good repair shop should be able to add the needed links, but remember, chain do stretch, wear, over time.

I agree with Bert, may be the dealer, not the mower. Have you tried contacting Honda directly with your problem. In the passed I found their customer service department to be extremely helpful.

Please provide us with the model and serial numbers of the engine so we can see what you have. Plus go through this troubleshooting procedure, if you are able, and provide us with the results. That way we will have ha better idea as how to proceed. Electrical* problems can be very easy or...

In your video it shows you are trying to start the engine in the choke open position, not closed. Is there a reason for this? Kohler engines start best in the choke closed and throttle at 3/4 position.

As gotomow stated, next step is to remove the belt cover and check the timing belt and pulleys. If they are all in good condition then check the drive belt and pulley. To do this, put handle in the vertical position, tip the mower on its side, carb up, and inspect.

Fully closed.

Wouldn’t be the first time I’ve seen a new carb that needed to be rebuilt. Did you replace the gasket where you replaced it? Look in the carb, do you see fuel squirting up when you push the primer bulb?

Right casting marks, nothing to worry about.

Didn’t look at the enclosed instructions did you? Briggs even includes pictures. Sorry I had to ask.

Rings go against the carb body, you should not see them

Time to clean and rebuild the carb. The float seat has swelled causing hard starting. If it is a Tecumseh engine you will need to buy a kit 631021B and replace the needle and seat. Here is the procedure I use. Needle and seat replacement. Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl...

Blown head gasket.

Coil air gap should be .010”. Most DYI use a business card to set, which does work. Push the throttle control all the way to choke the engine, the front butterfly should be closed. Pull back the control to high speed and that butterfly should open. Let me know what happens.

Ok, second stupid question. How fresh is you gas and have you checked for water in the gas? Crack open the bolt on the bottom of the carb and drain about 5 oz into a clean glass jar. Cover and shake vigorously. Any bubbles or foam indicates water in the gas.

I think in this case registered means licensed.

If oil is in the carb, the only way it can get in there is through the breather tube. Try two things for me please. First, unhook the breather tube from the carb and run the engine. If the engine runs clearly, you will probably find oil being blow out the breather tube. If this happens, you...

When you changed the gasket, how did the valves look? Any oil residue on the intake valve? If no, what did you torque the head bolts to?

If the oil level is correct, I will lose the bet. There are there ways for oil to enter the cylinder. One, past the rings, which I doubt given what you post. Two, through the carb, which is not happening if I lose the bet. Three, head gasket failure, possible if not installed or torqued...

Reported this guy.

Check the oil level, I’m willing to bet that you will find that it is overfilled and smells like gas. If I’m correct your problem is that the float needle in the carb is not seating properly, allowing fuel to flow through the carb into the crankcase. Time to clean and rebuild the carb.

These engine are known for blowing head gaskets. If it were in my shop I would order a head gasket kit #794152 and replace the head gasket. First remove the valve cover and plug. Turn the engine over by hand and look to see if the valves are operating correctly. If they are remove the head...

Your part number comes back to a Peerless transaxle #9000-003. I found one one EBay for $100. What is wrong with yours, I have repaired them in the past. Most parts are still available.

Please provide us with the model and serial numbers, so we can see what you are dealing with.

Before you open it up, please provide us the all the engine numbers, so we can see what you are dealing with.

Stupid question, is it possible that the coil is mounted upside down? Most Briggs engines have the kill wire termial on the bottom. You did state you replaced the coil. May be wrong, it happened once before I think.

First thing you should check is your oil level. May be overfilled by fuel diluting the oil, give it the smell test. If no indication of this problem, I would then suspect a head gasket failure.

I was born when Truman was president, so I’m willing to bet my eyes are older than most on this forum. I would agree that sometimes caps might be easier to read, but the majority appreciate lower case. It does make a difference which font is used.

Is this the tool you are looking for? https://picclick.com/E-z-Coil-Spring-Recoil-Winder-Tool-Small-Engine-280742865257.html

This manual might help. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B6NaqjIxWV1ybEN0LWo3azl6OUU

The old CC were built by Cub, but what you purchased is probably a Yardmachine, painted yellow built by MTD.

The only way any current from a battery can reach the coil in a magneto ignition system would be through a shorted ignition switch and then it would be nearly impossible. They are two different circuits, plus the secondary circuit in the coil is connected to a ground and the spark plug. The...

Can you take a few pictures of all the linkage, include the governor linkage. To me it sounds like something is either loose or connected wrong.

It has long been recommended that for the best cut you should never cut more than 1/3 of the height you want to maintain. So if you want to maintain a 3” lawn you should cut before the grass reaches 4.5”. This really depends on a couple of other factors. Heavy, manicured lawns need to be cut...

Those units have blades which are timed and they may be hitting each other if the belt came loose and the belt jumped. Tip the mower on it’s side, carb up, and check to see if the blades come close to each other. They should form a T, 90 degrees off if correct.

Did those high lift blades come with the tractor or the bagging unit? Can you post the part number on the blade, so we can check if they are actually high lift blades? Also please post the model and serial numbers for both the tractor and the bagging unit. It’s not that we don’t believe what...

Before blaming the coil I would make sure that the choke is fully closing when you put the choke control in the closed position. Not uncommon for the cable to move, not allowing the choke to close fully.

The float needle seat may look good, but may have swelled from the old fuel sitting in the carb. This will result in a lean mixture, which is why I always replace it when I clean carbs.

My guess is that you will have to clean the carb again. If you did not do so, I would replace the float needle and seat, plus set the float level properly.

Not much you can power with those stators. Hand warmer and a light is about all it could handle.

First thing You need to do is to remove the engine shroud and check to see if the cylinder fins are clear of debris. If everything is clean and clear post a couple of pics of the damage you are talking about.

This is a Brute tractor built for Walmart by MTD, not Brute lawn mower built by Briggs. You are only going to save yourself a few bucks if you are able to disassemble the spindle and replace only the bad parts. Might just need a new shaft or bearings.

The only thing I see is that the valve seats definitely need to be recut, which will mean you will have to grind the valve faces and lap them in. The pitting you see is only rough casting, which is normal in that area.

Tools for both units are the same. Sean, you are correct, the only difference is the type of handle. I like the curved handle, as I feel it gives the user better control of the unit, especially when extended.

Yogurt, I’ve told you not to assume, before you make a reply. Yes you can install larger tires on that unit, but it will cause far more problems Than it would be worth. Tires will rub against both the deck and hydraulic lines, it you could even get them mounted.

Did some more thinking and also check the voltage at the battery with the key in the start position. If less than 10VDC you may have a bad battery.

If you had 12+ VDC in step 2 and only 6 VDC in step four, I would suspect a bad solenoid which I would replace.