Recent content by Richie F

You're correct Star Tech time for better eyeballs. Lol.

The wiring diagram in the parts break down is 5 pin. Why did you buy a 7 pin switch ? Or do you mean the original switch is a 7 pin ? https://www.partstree.com/models/425000x8a-murray-42-lawn-tractor-2003/electrical-system-1/

I think enough about talking about this. Good luck with the repair, one way or another. Over and out.

Always nice to get a freebie.

Bert He's just deglazing a cylinder bore. Doesn't care about the physics of it. The more he knows, the more confused he will become. "NASA, we have a lawnmower engine to fix".

Good luck with your repair.

No! Use mineral spirits or kerosine. The hone you are getting is just fine. The square corners will round a little as it breaks in. Stop thinking about it and do the job. I've been rebuilding cars/ trucks/snowmobiles/engines/trannys/rears for 50 years. Don't overthink the wheel.

Here's one explaining the system. Also if you're going to do this repair, clean the outside of the pump first before disassembly. Clean is the key to this job.

I would think it has an oil filter. I so, cut it open and squeeze the element out. What do you see the the pleats of the filter. Here's a video on rebuilding a pump. Use it as a guild.

At quick pace to 10 seconds is about right. Look up a youtube on honing basics of cylinder bore. It's really not hard at all.

If the shaft is still OK, yes all that would be needed is the bushing and plug. I would change the roller bearing on the other end of the shaft also. Could you post a picture or two of the problem also ?

Look at where the forward/reverse lever (3) hooks to the rod (29) underneath. That rod goes to the transaxle Make sure it's pulling and pushing the link on the trans the same distance. Look for anything that looks to be an adjustment for that rod also. The parts breakdown of your machine doesn't...

Yes. Go slow to get the feel of it. Only let half of the stone come out of the bore each way.

I'm going to guess this is a OHV engine. If it is all you do is loosen/remove rocker arms and remove push rods. No need to remove valve springs.

Could the pump have lost oil and its low now ? And I agree with Star Tech. The area must be clean when working on a hydraulic pump. Dirt and hydraulics don't mix. Have rebuilt parts on Cat machines and know that.

I know this is a shot in the dark, but always thought it should be dot to dot. (Crank and cam).

Don't know what number pump you have but a quick search does show pump rebuild kits for Hustler. Seals and gaskets no hard parts.

Thanks for the info on that.

Did this happen overnight or did it come on slowly ? Have you checked the drive belt ? You have a rear that is prone to have forward gear problems. Here's a picture of it.

With the piston out, ball hone. When ball honing keep the cylinder wet with mineral spirits. When done wash the cylinder with warm soapy water and rinse then dry. Then with clean paper towels use automatic trans oil to wipe the cylinder down. You will see a black film when doing this. That is...

I believe the compression release is for the exhaust valve, not the intake.

Pink power ? Was this after gas has dried up ? If so it could be the dye that is put in different grades of gas. Jelly is cause by eithenol in the gas blend. It absorbs moisture and makes the jelly when gas dries up in carb float bowls or gas tanks.

Man if you going to fit an oversized piston/ring with a rigid hone you better have a machine to do it. That means the cylinder wall has taper in it and you have to get it out for it to be true again. Sunnen makes a machine to do it. It's called wet honing. Again, it's a lawnmower engine. Not NASA.

Please don't do drugs when you work. That's a safety issue. ?

Hone the cylinder again and get standard piston rings. A ball hone will do just fine. You don't need a rigid hone that was shown above. This isn't a 3 second top fuel engine.

Being it's 20 years old I would think most of a wiring in these types ride ons would be the same.

First off this should be a different thread. HOW did you know it was the fuel additives in the gas that caused the problems ? Additives don't make gas jell. What does a 700R4 have to do with this ? A 200R4 and the 700R4 are both metric. Read this and let's move on...

That is impossible. All engines are honed from the factory. That's how the rings seat into the cylinder bore. If you have no cross hatch, your engine has wear. Using oil, using more gas to run, harder to start, fouling spark plugs and oil smoke (which is blue in color not white).

I had many Chevy's using the pleated filters along with repairing GM cars in my life. If that filter got clogged you had dirty gas, a really bad tank or cheap $1 store filters that would collapse.

Never opened a red or white pancake filter. What are the micron specs for both ? The pleated filter shown above I have used many times on carbureted VW engines with no problems. Can't see a problem with a carbed lawnmower engine. Had to laugh at the Briggs 691035 filter. The element looks...

How is the lifting door rod lock in the up position ? Thanks.

Valve head seat face must always be square to the valve seat in the head. Don't care what the angle of the valve is in relation to combustion head. Could the valve seat come loose in the head and it "looks like" the valve is bent ? You're pictures to me show nothing of the problem.

If the carb is faulty, it's warranty. If you caused the carb fault, it's not. From what I see the carb is no mystery. Pull the float bowl and report back.

My first thought is it's running hot. I see the engine is air cooled. Is this a machine you just picked up ?

OK I'll have to say "Move on", like cut the lawn.

Or my signature. :) If the area is square cut from corner to corner. Remember this formula ? https://www.carpentry-pro-framer.com/pythagorean-theorem.html#:~:text=Here%20is%20the%20formula%20for,to%20find%20the%20missing%20side.

Silver dollar patches is what it sounds like. I rake the dead grass out and then use a lawn fungus control. Use what you like and treat that spot(s). Also use that product at the start of growing season. Water in and let the surrounding grass fill in the bad area. It will take time. Use a...

How is that possible when this product is a thin liquid ?

Do a starter draw test at the starter. By pass all the rest in the system.

I have a 12 hp single cylinder Briggs on my 1988 MTD Yardman ride on. Engine runs good but there was oil smoke when shutting it off. As a test bought the product Engine Restorer (small bottle). Changed the oil and put 2 oz in it. (1 qt. crankcase). Mowed the lawn two times and still saw some...

Are you saying you used a tool like this ?

How did you measure starter draw ? The value is 110-140 amps by your testing. What was the voltage when you did this ? Amps go up, voltage goes down on a draw test. Can't find a spec for it but it sounds high for a lawnmower engine.

I found this manual. I see the spring (#96). It gives a general idea of where it goes. https://westcoastenergy.web.fc2.com/atco-admiral-16-service-manual.html

Take the bolt out, with whatever you have and go to a hardware store. A lot of them have a board you can test the bolt into. If it fits 3/8 x 24 it's standard. Doesn't work ? Try it on the metric board. The socket head means nothing. Bolt diameter and tread is what counts.

I have an 83 Monte Carlo that I install a TPI engine in. Once a year a start it (have a battery tender on it) Regular gas in the tank. Starts and charges with no problems. Never put anything in the tank (aka Heet) or anything else.

This is confusing. A 3/8 x 24 bolt uses a 9/16 socket on it. How did you know the tread of the bolt ? 5/8 socket will fit sloppy on a 3/8 bolt. If you know it's 3/8 x 24 it's not metric.

But how did they correct it ?

Did you check to see if the gas cap vents ? Try running it without the cap on.

First off sounds like a "week" battery. Unseen solenoid is more than likely the starter solenoid. Has anybody checked the charging system of your machine ? If that isn't working your battery will never get charged.

Just as a possibility. If the exhaust had a leak and you shut the engine off, the engine can suck in colder air to make the muffler 'pop".

If the clutch is on a straight shaft, prying on the back of it and hitting the mounting bolt for it should help shock it off.

Or bent. Lol.

I don't know it this helps. If your clutch looks like this in the video it should slide off. If not, prying down on the PTO and hitting the bolt that holds it on might do the trick.

Would have liked to see before and after pictures.

Why not ? If you know where the bend is and see what a new one looks like, do it. The question is. How did it bend to begin with ? Rod diameter to small or something else.

Boy that was really dumb of me to write this. You learn from your mistakes. Next time I'll look into a machine other than looking at a picture of it. "Stupid is, what stupid does".

You have a zero turn mower. The front wheels are casters. They can move anywhere. There is no toe adjustment. Read the manual that came with it. Why do I think this is a joke and I got sucked in ?

Call Scag ask for their help.

Take both lines off of the carb. Put your finger over one of the carb ports. Prime the carb. Is your finger sucked in or pushed out ? If it is sucked in, that's the hose to the filter in the tank. If not, that's the return. Also the vent cap could be bad. If the tank gets pressure in it you will...

First off I don't own a machine like this and never worked on one. You would have to see, the best you can, how this linkage works from the back to the front first. If you see a link point, disconnect it and see if your problem area moves better.

Try taking the spring off of it first. Then spray lubricant on the pivot bolt moving the arm back and forth. If not, lube the pivot area and use the rod at the back of the machine to move it.

So the best way out is to buy the carb. Looking at the video, even though he has the carb for auto choke he would still need the part for the muffler, air filter housing for a primer bulb and cut the fan shroud for the air vain to work.

Two things I see that don't relate to the blower housing problem. I don't see the auto choke lever on the muffler The small spring is mounted on the coil, it should hook just to the left of it on the tin shield. Look at time mark 6:11 of the video. Also look at time mark 25:27. Look how this...

I would disconnect the negative cable at the battery. Don't know anything about this machine, but is has an ECM with memory, that I can tell. In cars of today you can clear memory codes by doing the same thing. Try it and see what happens.

If you can clear the code see if it comes back.

Any product that has Dimension in it or Barricade works very good as a pre emergent for crabgrass. Here's one from Lesco

Since it's a air cooled my first thought is rings. Did you save the 93 gas and see if water was in it ? Why do you need a starter now ? Is it locked up or is the battery weak ? Did you test for compression ? 10W30 or 15W40 is fine. Read up on oils. No you didn't damage the cylinder wall with the...

The white barbed fitting looks to be for a fuel shut off valve from fuel tank to carb. Could be wrong. Or a fuel return hose from carb to fuel tank.

Water in the oil is a problem, period. Brand new ? Follow Rivets advice. But don't change the oil and don't use the machine. Let the dealer take an oil sample.

Front left side of what ? What line screws in tight ? Can't find a vacuum diagram for this machine. If I could it would help.

Thought about this. What vacuum line that screws in tight ? Where on the machine is it ? The vacuum line at the carb area might go to the intake manifold.

Better pictures would help.

Amps and volts are inversely proportional. Higher voltage in a DC charging circuit means amps are low. How do you have AC voltage tractor lights ? Your charging coil is AC that is rectified into DC to run the mower. Unless the coil is a DC unit. If you have a voltage regulator you are going from...

That's what I just said.

Thanks for your input. Wanted to know your logic between numbers and letters. Still don't see how unknown bundle of wires on a terminal spade relates a single wire connection ?

As long as the fuel pump gets a vacuum signal from the engine crankcase it doesn't matter where the hose is connected to. There are some that connects to the valve cover, others go to the crankcase it self. If you want install an electric pump that puts out like 3 psi. I think the carb can hold...

Blowing a fuse is a short. When the fuse blows is it just when you turn the key on or when you go passed that and try to use the starter ? Replacing the switch isn't the problem, it's down stream from that. Does your ignition switch have 5 terminals ?

I have to ask, how to do know the routing of the wires when the diagram is a signal color wire ? The diagram also at the PTO switch has the labels A,C,D and E not 1,2,3,4. I do have have a dealer on Long Island that's about 12 miles from me. I'll call them and see if they might: A) Have a...

Ditto. Small light stuff can be put on racks inside to make room. Or get a bigger shed. Lol.

Google your question. Are you wanting electric or mechanical ? I did.

And so ? With all your poetic talk did you replace the pump and solve the problem ? " I learns something daily, but forget so much more at my age." Sorry, sounds like you might be like 90.

Info of the machine please. Model and serial number.

Looks like Fish posted faster than me. Lol. Real quick, you lost forward gears. Looking at diagram at the numbers of the one shown above. #202 is (transaxle link) that attaches to # 175 (shaft assembly gear shift) that intern connects to #22 (shifter on fender). A pin or nut has fallen off one...

That's for that info. The solenoids I've seen only have a steel plunger without that cap.

Your starter solenoid normally goes thru two safety switches first before letting the starter solenoid operate. In your system it might go from ignition switch, to brake switch and then to the PTO to operate the the cutting blades, and then to starter solenoid to turn the engine over. You have a...

If the engine does have a solenoid, that's a good point. Don't know what you mean by "rubber cap is on the end of the plunger" ? "If it is a fuel injected one I have just wasted my time" No you haven't. You did give valuable info into this problem. If it is injected, the pulse pump is a...

I ment on the tag for the machine. Model number and serial number.

Is that the correct wiring diagram for his machine ? In his photo you see there are wires of different colors bundled to one terminal connector. The diagram doesn't show that.

OK now your explanation of the wires makes sense. Have you looked into the two dealers in Michigan for posible help ? Are there any other numbers along with the one you have provided ?

As long as there is free shipping and free returns try one if you like. I've been lucky with them.

Chris agree with you. Yes you could use a dial indicator on the shaft to be really close to OEM but who does that. Grinding tree stumps with a lawn mower is never a good thing. Lol.

If the engine runs, look at the diagram. It tells you the values of the stator disconnected from the voltage regulator. 28 volts AC @ 3600 RPM. That will tell you if the stator is good or not. When stator is connected to regulator you will have 9-16 amps DC @3600 rpm going to the battery.

" I cannot understand how the "fuel pump" actually pumps gas." The pump is activated by the engine crankcase pressure. As the engine rotates there is a pulse made. This pulse pumps the fuel pump, which intern moves the gas from inlet to outlet of the fuel pump. Sometimes a new pump is dry. Try...

I posted it for you and others that may want to help out.

I know I missed it. But how did you bend the crankshaft? There are videos on how to straighten the blade end without replacing the crank itself. I am glad you went the correct way. Peace of mind is a good thing.

Don't know how to resize it sorry.

Try yourself to contact Scag. Email them if need be and say you're a dissatisfied customer.

Sounds like feed back to me. That's my first though. Test ground with ohm meter not a test light. Your hour meter should not have power to it with the key off.

Did you try contacting Scag directly and ask them ?

From the diagram posted Terminal A is white and black Terminal C is red and yellow Terminal D is yellow and black Terminal E is orange and black Your explanation is confusing. Like wire #1 can't see how the color can be red/yellow and black/white. Pictures would help.

Excellent.

Would you like to share what you did ?

Looking at the float gauge it looks like it's pressed in. Get two pry bars of some sort, one on each side on the top and pry it off. This is the best picture I could find.

Star Tech I found that diagram also but had trouble posting it. He says his PTO switch has 8 lugs on it and the diagram only shows 4. If his wires match the colors on the diagram it would be a start.

You could use penetrating oil like Blaster and a scotchbrite pad to remove the surface rust also. Numbers are deeper in the metal so they'll show up.

Can you post any pictures also ? Found contact info also. https://www.simplicitymfg.com/na/en_us/support/contact-us.html

You can order it on Tractor Supply's website and have it shipped to the store near you. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/super-s-cotton-picker-spindle-grease-00

I really can't believe this tread. 1) Bought a brand new transaxle. 2) Took it apart to put fresh lube in it. Don't you think the manufacturer knows what they are doing ? 3) Research of the Bentonite would explain how the stuff works. 4) Why buy a new unit when the old one is easy to repair. I...

MowerMike It was junk to begin with. Glad you didn't lose out.

That outer race can most likely be knocked out if you flip the part over. I do agree about #13, 14 and 28. Would like to see #48 better to make sure the groove for the spap ring is good.

I just reported this also.

Post #5 is spam

There are many youtube videos on how to put oil in the axel. A lot say pull the unit out to do it, but with some brain power putting oil in it in the machine can be done. Yes, cutting up the top by the battery is how to do it. Member upupandaway gave a suggestion on Pg. 4 post #32. Me myself and...

Bottom one that's junk: The inner part of the press in roller bearing (28) is gone and the internal snap ring (14) is missing also. Number (46) looks intact and the groove for part (14) looks good from this picture. I'm guessing part (13) is the bushing that presses into bearing (28). Number...

Go to post #3 on this thread. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/peerless-tecumseh-205-024c.253909/

For the rear spring I took a wire coat hanger and made a loop out of it. One end over the spring and the other end I used a bar thru it and pried off of the steel on the back of the machine. The bar acts as a lever. Same way to reinstall. Granted the deck is twisted, left forward, right back...