Recent content by outdoorpowermike

Did you replace fuel pump yet? If so what was the outcome?

.004 is correct. Both valves. At top dead center on compression stroke. Beware that intake valve is the lower valve. Sounds like valves not adjusted correctly, battery low or compression release broken.

Thanks, To hot? Remember that our military folks are wearing a lot of heavy stuff in temps much hotter. That's hot. Just sayin. Please let me know outcome.

Did the fuel pump help?

Did my reply happen, having trouble sending info.

Put vac gauge on suck port, should have -1.5 reading red side, put gauge on push port going to carb should have +1.5 reading green side. Test shows good pump is good. Ck for pulse any movement good. Ck for clog from tank to pump, ck power to carb solenoid and ground.

Put vac gauge on suck port, should have -1.5 reading red side, put gauge on push port going to carb should have +1.5 reading green side. Test shows good pump is good. Ck for pulse any movement good. Ck for clog from tank to pump, ck power to carb solenoid and ground.

Ok, from what you say the carb needs to removed and cleaned the correct way, with a ultrasonic cleaner, I use it every time with lean running carbs. Fixes 95% of the time with new intake gaskets. Or just replace carb with new carb. Some times cleaner can't fix it. Really never had any problems...

If these test show positive you have a defective fuel solenoid or fuel clog from fuel supply ( the fuel tank) to the fuel pump.

You can test the fuel pump. The suck side should have 1- 1/2 neg vacuum. Out side to carb should have 1-1/2 psi. You can check these with old time vacuum gauge. Green reading is push side to carb and red reading is suck side to gas supply. To test for pulse just put vac gauge at pulse outlet, if...

Make and model of mower?

I need make and model of your mower. A pic would also be nice. Maybe I can help you.

Thanks for a reply Freddie21. You are correct with angles of idlers. They have about a 1/4" lip that keeps belt on if brackets do bend some, normal after some time. Just like helping mower people. 32 years at outdoor power shop I've come across things most techs over look. I have comebacks like...

Also you can slowly pull pto handle back almost all the way but not complety and belt should not come off as a test the worn out brake pads, lets us know the outcome.

Might sound crazy but you need to replace the spindle brake shoes. Look at the brake shoes or pads that push against the right side spindle pulley and you will see deep groves in it. What happens is the deck belt gets pinched turning in oppiset dirrections and the belt will always come off. The...

Kill switch is not being pulled far enough so no spark. Adjust brake handle cable tighter, cable will slide after time and will need adjustment.

Is this a walk behind type mower with handle you pull to release the flywheel brake? If it is make sure the cable is not sliding upwards where the 7/16 nut is by pull handle. if it slide up the kill switch at the motor will not open and you will not have spark. Cable end should be about 1/2 to 1...

The Kohler motor has a vent tube that goes under the plastic air filter housing and will dry and crack then fall off and suck anything in. Maybe check there.

From what I read you have a intake valve seat loose in the head, a bent or warped intake valve, or guide sliding out of the head.

Did you do a compression test? Popping at high rpm is because intake valve is not seating properly, or valve seat and guide are not where they should be. Even with good compression you will still get popping.

Poor pto switch or connection at the pto switch will turn off engine, so will a poor contact at the 20 amp fuse that feeds the mower from the battery. Try checking these for possible problems.

Poor pto switch or connection at the pto switch will turn off engine, so will a poor contact at the 20 amp fuse that feeds the mower from the battery. Try checking these for possible porblems.