Recent content by ILENGINE

Two most common issues are improperly torqued flywheel nut, and oil/grease on the flywheel or shaft taper.

Worked on a Poulan Pro years ago that would die if engaged at full throttle, and would run fine if engaged at idle and then brought up to full speed. Most likely due to newer engines with emissions making them run lean and can h'tandle the extra load when not completely warmed up.

Variable drive setup. Could be a seized transmission but I have only seen one in 23 years. Most likely scenario is the disc brake is stuck in the on position preventing it from rolling. Could also be stuck in gear but that is about as rare as the seized transaxle theory. I would start by...

The brake may be off but is it stuck in the on position. Post full model number so we can see what transmission configuration that you have.

If you killed the engine with the rebar I would check for a partially sheared flywheel key. Just because the crankshaft isn't bent doesn't mean the flywheel isn't damaged. Just thinking it could be a spark timing knock.

I don't remember when they started stamping the valve cover as opposed to a riveted tag or stamping the blower housing. There isn't a chance that the valve cover is upside down and the model number is on the bottom.

My local Kohler distributor not only sells Seafoam but recommends it use.

will require camshaft replacement. My policy is if I suspect a camshaft issue and have to go exploring I just go ahead and replace the camshaft. Just too much risk of it looking fine and then not working all the time.

Lets start here https://www.mcculloch.com/int/ click on support and the drop down will show user manuals. type 96041011800 into the search bar and that should give you the choice between the IPL and the owners manual.

No vent in cap. Most likely contaminated charcoal canister or plugged rollover valve in top of tank. OP can loosen cap to see f the problem continues. Trying to use a fuel filter with too fine of mesh will cause similar issues.

That almost sounds like the misfire related issue with the synchronization issue. Running on one cylinder will cause loss of power and rough running issue. Faulty spark plug or ignition module going goofy.

The bolts or bolts for the transmission support bracket either on the front or front corner has come out or broken allowing the transmission to rock and rolling the belt off of the pulley. If you find that is the case also need to check the frame at the axle mounting points because the rocking...

You have to remove the solenoid from the carb and snip the plunger off to make it work in bypass. You can leave the electric connected if you want. or replace with another carb bowl screw. What issue are you having with the solenoid. They get blamed for a lot of start run issues that they...

The diagnostics hints to a possible misfire or incorrect spark plugs used. Also could be an issue with the grounds. I don't think a sheared flywheel key would be likely since there is no direct connection to cause a sudden stop of the flywheel, unless the flywheel has been removed and then...

Sounds more like the variable speed drive pulley is not sliding freely and allowing the belts to sync correctly. May also be an issue with the belts being worn.

Why does it need adjusted.

Most likely you have bent the shifter. The hand shifter will get caught on tree branches etc, and get bent and throws the shift pattern off.

Either the vale adjustment is on the edge of what works, or the compression release on the camshaft is sticking in the disengaged position and causing problems. Have seem the sticking camshaft issue more than the valves slightly out of adjustment issue.

New one for the list. Gasket shellac used on the oil filter gasket, Briggs engine with a MTD filter installed and what looked like gaskets shellac on the oil filter mounting surface, that I had to scrape off before installed the new oil filter,

The 396-787 is 20 9/16 long with 1/2 inch offset. the 396-810 are 20 1/2 long with 5/8 offset both with 1 1/8 center hole. Most likely either one would work.

Emissions control system not venting tank correctly causing excessive vacuum preventing fuel flow from tank.

Oiling the pre filter was always the normal method but is no longer recommended mainly due to people over oiling the pre filter and leading to oil contamination of the main filter. Air filter plugging would result in running rich and poor performance. Shouldn't cause the mower to die without...

@perdueg97 Dry volume for your EZT2200 series is 56 ounces, You may not be able to put quite that amount in because the pump and motor, filter will hold a small amount.

@EatPreyMow It is that easy. Make sure the guides haven't walked out. They should be the same height between both valves. No guarantee that they won't walk later but if they are fine now just run it.

My biggest concern would be valve guide locations and have they migrated due to heat. The corrosion on the surface may of caused some damaged, but nothing to loose in running it if the guides are fine.

Just give us the long model number off of the tag.

The extra weight on the front may be creating more downhill drag

The head gasket normally blows between the cylinder and the push rod cavity. Not common to have external oil leak from head gasket at least of briggs. Could be valve cover gasket/rtv sealant leaking. Could be other things that would cause oil leaks. Need to either transport to the dealer...

Is there a hydrogear sticker on the transmission. Unlike most other pieces of equipment the engine and transmissions are considered separate items than the mower. so you can have parts diagrams for 3 different pieces of the same mower. If hydrogear it will use 20w50 motor oil. Need to...

May not be relative but several years ago was working on a Briggs twin replacing ignition modules, and Briggs had changed the style of module, this was pre CDI Briggs modules, but you had to grind the aluminum block between the two post that secured the module, because the coil pack would hit...

If that happened with the kill wires disconnected my next thought would be looking for a high amp short that is trying to find the path of least resistance and the coil is the weak point. Electric clutch shorted to the crankshaft of the engine or something similar or a faulty engine ground...

Used the Briggs 691035 style filters on all of the smaller Kohler, Briggs, Tecumseh powered riders for years without fuel flow issues. Started having issues with fuel not flowing properly out of fuel tanks in 2012 which is the year that they discontinued the vented fuel caps and started...

I would be checking the block for warpage also. Wouldn't be the first Briggs OHV that has a warped head mating surface on the block that I have seen.

Dirty carb. Need to remove clean and install carb repair kit.

Not rolling most likely sticking or stuck parking disc brake. Intermittent start could be valves out of adjustment or sticking compression release on the camshaft. Dying and running rough could both be related to a dirty carb, and crap in the tank obstructing fuel flow, or issues with fuel...

I suspect with normal starting and not long start times the battery should keep sufficient charge to start the engine for the entire mowing season, and may even be fine for part of next year without having to put it on the charger. it is kind of like starting the mower and then that little...

Briggs shop manuals are written from the standpoint that you are a trained mechanic with the knowledge to diagnose and work on something. So from a dealer standpoint they are a reference manual not the bible of repair procedures.

I would be removing the kill wire from the ignition module and then testing for a 12 volt feed through the kill wire. that picture of the module looks like it has been cooked.

How about providing the model number information from the engine so we are not guessing that is is either a flat head or overhead valve engine since both were made in 15.5 IC,

Double check that supercession. Partstree has a habit of throwing several parts up when they either don't have that part number or will list similar part numbers which may or may not be correct.. That part that you posted comes back being used on a FC600 tiller and two 2500 watt generators...

@ktrwn My two sources are dealer distributors and don't sell to the general public.

Most of the time the charge wire to the key switch is due to the product having a charge gauge or battery light. Nothing about the Briggs but Kohler recommends removing the wire to the key switch and connecting to the battery side of solenoid because of charging issues.

The two sources for Honda parts that I have both show the 30500-z9v-003 out of stock and both list the price as under $10

Never owned the protector set. Have been using old microfiche cards from day one. plastic covering from packaging works in a pinch also.

@rkf_bomb You are trying to take a simple charging system that has been in use over 60+ years and make it complicated. Connect the wire with the diode directly to the + side of the battery and stop worrying about it.

My guess is 790703

Double check your prefix and serial number. Not coming back as valid on the Honda dealer site. Engine is most likely a variation of a GCV160

You guys can argue your point with the Briggs factory service techs which is were I got the 5 hour recharge time for the single wire half wave rectifier non regulated charging system. This charging system and how it is not adequate for most homeowner operating periods has been discussed in...

@mitchstein443 This is a non regulated 3 amp charging system mower. Not enough amps output to damage the battery. Actually there isn't enough output to recharge the battery after a start unless run like 5 hours. This type of system runs at a deficit for recharging the battery...

Most of the time you remove the bolt from the end of the crankshaft and the clutch falls off on your hand. Other times may take a little work. the part with the wires coming out of it and the pulley are one piece and comes off as a unit. the bearings are not replaceable in most cases...

you need part number 532151785 idler pulley arm kit. https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-Roller-Replaces-151785-532151785/dp/B00TD4021Q

There is actually two bearings. I would drop the clutch and inspect the bearings.

the single diode charging system is only putting out about the same amount as a float charger. 3 amp max. Since the engine is set up for it might as well connect it to the battery and let it recharge the battery while running to slightly replenish what was consumed with the electric start.

@Blaine B. The quill rod has the tension spring around it, but is attached to the housing tube that contains the drive shaft and bearings..

The are calling the shaft assembly with the bearings the quill rod. doesn't look like they offered the individual parts for that assy.

Go to this website https://www.searspartsdirect.com/ put in your model number to get the parts diagrams. click on the mower deck and all the part numbers will be there. the part numbers given are actual Husqvarna part numbers available from your local dealer or for ordering from other locations.

Briggs for the most part eliminated the bottom drain plug on push mower engines a few years back. Either have to tip it on it side to drain out of the dipstick tube or use an oil vacuum. Imagine having to tip a tiller on its side to drain the oil. Actually happened.

For my area that is a $400-500 mower that you may have to sit on for a year to get that money. That mower may go for $75 at the community auction.

The rope pulley will warp. the housing will warp binding the pulley, and the plastic nose that the pulley rides on can also warp causing binding.

If it is the one that I am thinking about, you have to remove the entire transaxle from the mower because that stabilizer bracket locks into the grooves on the axle housing, and you have to drop the tranny to slide it down the housing.

@riceski@gmail.com @jimbocanuk the issue was due to a incorrectly installed fixed idler pulley arm on the deck. OP put the fixed idler in the location that I posted about and went to mow as posted in #21

Briggs does have a dry sump version of a Vanguard that holds 5 quarts with an external oil tank and a 45 degree operation rating. The engine he is talking about holds at least 2 quarts even though the manual says 78-80 ounces. My 35 vanguard holds 2 quarts to full mark.

Counterbalance weight retaining arm broke allowing the weight to get off center and pushing out the back of the block.

Two things. Oil on a slope may not be picked up by the oil pump slinger especially if slightly low. and can also effect gas in the carb which in some cases is the deciding factor.

The fixed idler pulley is incorrectly mounted. The plate that it is attached to needs to be rotated 180 degrees. The belt will actually go behind the deck hanger like the moveable idler pulley in your picture.

Faulty key switch or intermittent short backfeeding 12 volts to the kill wire

Definitely pull the deck off and get us a picture. something else to look at while the deck is off. Make sure the tension arm moves through its full range. That style of pivot with the brake arms will wear grooves in the back side where the brake arm rollers sit and will cause either binding...

No question that was foreign object ingestion.

The closest I came to a diagram was a breakdown, but they don't look like the actual internal pump parts are available, Just some of the inside parts and the outer shell parts. Maybe since failure of one part of the system can cause failure of other parts, don't actually expect it to be...

Depends on what you consider sharp. A .030 cutting edge is considered the sharp starting point according to Oregon which is probably who made the blades.

Hey Bert, it looks like the 37x144MA is the correct part number. I have checked Stens, Oregon, Pix, Gates, and Rotary and have not come up with an aftermarket belt Didn't find a size reference either sorry.

DTC P1694 Driver Circuit Shorted to Power (Non-Scan Diagnostics) This is a tachometer fault test. 1 1. Disconnect and reconnect engine, tachometer and ECM J1 (Grey) connectors. 2. Turn Ignition ON, Engine OFF. 3. Clear codes. 4. Turn Ignition OFF, and then back ON. 5. Does DTC return? Go to...

For us to help you we will need the model number of the engine so we can see what style of engine you are having issues with. To many variables in play to give much direction.

I would make sure the blade is tight, but I suspect that noise is the engine brake against the flywheel. Could also be a sheet metal vibration induced by the engine braking. I don't think it is anything serious.

Should be a model number sticker on the blower housing. Model number will start with 143.

Going to need the model number information on the engine. Most likely location is above the spark plug stamped into the metal blower housing.