Recent content by ILENGINE

Lets start with getting the terminology straight on an L head engines. The head is the part with the spark plug held on by 8-9 bolts. The valve cover is on the side of the engine with two 1/4 or 5/16 headed bolts and should have a rubber hose between it and the air intake side of the engine...

And also when cranking to start or during the last couple of seconds when shut down.

I would be leaning toward a faulty governor. Saw a similar issue with a MTD engine a couple years ago that didn't matter what you did including disconnect the governor spring would not idle below 3000 rpm. But if you went from idle to full speed would run at 3650 according to my tach.

Startech, The serial number of the engine given in the first post puts it in the Walbro range which is before 50xxxxxxx After 50xxxxxxxx uses the Nikki. Have to look at the fuel system page to get the carb part number to see the serial number break.

Had anybody checked the flywheel key to see if it is sheared. Wrong timing from sheared key will cause issues also.

If the engine is running at idle. and you manually move the throttle linkage toward full throttle at the carb, does it give you resistance trying to slow back down or acts like nothing is there.

Does the engine have a low oil shutdown sensor. Could be located either next to the oil filter or mounted in the V between the heads. should have a single wire going to it. the low oil shutdown will cause it to die 3-5 seconds after starting.

If it smokes like it is choking meaning it is blowing black smoke your problem isn't the fuel solenoid which has the single purpose of help to prevent the engine from going bang when shut off. It doesn't stop the fuel flow into the carb, From your description I would suspect that the fuel...

Most will drain out if the mower is setting level, But the fastest way is to keep cranking the engine and getting the oil out of the cylinder which may require installing and removing the plug a few times, and then when it starts just run it, Make sure the oil is at the proper level before...

Bert if the pictures I was just looking at are correct I worked on that exact spindle on a gravely a couple of months ago. the hub on the bottom does unscrew and needs to come off to remove the bottom bearing. I built a spanner with some flat steel, an old spindle nut and some rod to fit the...

I suspect what has happened is the breather is on the muffler side of the engine opposite the carb. when the carb is turned up it puts the breather on the downside which then fills with engine oil. Then after the blade was installed it was set back down level, but the breather is still full...

Lets start with the model number of the briggs engine. Depending on when it was made could be located above the spark plug, on the flap above the muffler or the newest location is on the side of the block somewhat obscured with paint.

The key is too short allowing it to move up the shaft groove until is pops out at the top of the taper area, and in some cases will also break the pump coupler. I made a longer key for one that I had to replace the pump on due to that exact issue. The longer key causes it to bind in the...

The black disc is part of the check valve, and now the carb is junk because it is not replaceable.

First question would be Dealer and the second is gas technician dealer. OEM is person that manufactures equipment and Votech is school KDI is Kohler diesel

The 794122 could be a different length diameter, or different keyway or some other change

The only way to check if it is a compression issue is to check with a compression gauge

I looked up a 33R877-0015-G1 and the 33S877-0015-G1 and both show the same crankshaft and connecting rod.

If there is a compression problem is could of be occurring prior to shutoff, but since the engine was running it was still enough to continue running, but not enough to restart. You could have spark, but a compression issue can prevent ignition

When you say that you have gas on the spark plug, are you saying the spark plug is wet after cranking. If so that would indicate that either there is a carb problem causing to much fuel or you don't have spark under compression, or the compression isn't as good as you think and can't ignite...

The main issue is the valves may not close all the way causing valve floating and loss of compression, low power, hard to start.

My generac distributors shows NLA and no alternative.

Did some more research and found that Craftsman is no longer claiming the mower, and since it was manufactured in partnership with Husqvarna you need to go see them, But Husqvarna isn't claiming as far as a parts diagram. If you could find your owners manuals the parts diagram should be in...

I think you have the correct model number but sears parts lookup is being goofy for some reason. If it put your model into the sears parts site it shows up in the dropdown list but says not found if you click on it.

For the average person there is no different between them. And it looks like the 33R is being replaced with the 33S according to my distributor. So even if you had ordered the R version you may of received the S version anyway.

Two things that would be helpful. the full model of the engine, and a picture of the part that you removed.

What you are calling the stator is what you are calling the alternator. So for correct terminology the stator is under the flywheel and the regulator is what goes between the stator and the battery. Now two things to check. Do you have battery voltage to the battery wire (believe red...

If you disconnect the fuel line at the carb what kind of fuel flow do you have. Some of those engines also had a filter in the tank and it could be restricted at that point causing issues.

I saw the fan moving around but can also see the entire engine shaking on start up and when it dies. The engine in most cases doesn't shake while running but will make a clunking sound on start up and shutdown, and will see the entire engine move

The solenoid would have a large cable to the battery, which the purple wire can also connect to, and a wire to the key switch. the other big lug would go to the starter with no other wires connects to it., Some of the CH20 had the solenoid on the starter which is the solenoid shift starter...

Sounds like it is loading up on fuel. Is it blowing black smoke when that happens.

The purple wire can hook directly to the battery side of the starter solenoid. the white wire would connect to the M terminal of the key switch. the M terminal would need to be grounded in the key off position to shut off the engine. Can't use a switch that supplies power to the M other wise...

The white wire without the insulation could be shorting to ground preventing spark. Repair the wire and see what happens.

Need to tighten the motor mount bolts up also since the engine is loose. Can be seen shaking in the video. Depending on ground wire locations could effect power to the fuel solenoid on the carb.

Cylinder walls show very little wear since part of the crosshatch is still present. But that heat glaze pattern is kind of unique. I would pull the lifters out next and see what the bottoms look like. See if they have a groove worn into them. The lifters would appear to be all the way up...

I would check the flywheel key to make sure that you didn't shear it again. Are you tightening the flywheel to factory torque spec.

Are you sure it is a battery problem and not a charger problem. I am constantly needing to wiggle the charger to computer connector on my HP because it likes to loose contact and stop charging.

MTD engine parts are sourced through MTD, and in most cases the engine parts diagram is part of the mower parts diagram that the engine is mounted on.

The first two numbers of the model number is the series, and also coincided with the displacement in Cu/in so you have a series 11xxxx which is 11 cubic inch displacement.

I plugged the engine model number that you listed into the Briggs dealer site and pulled the common specs from there.

That model number comes back to the 175 cc engine with .003-.005 intake and .005-.007 exhaust clearances

I am glad I could be of assistance for your issue. This use to be such a common problem that the reset instruction were actually on a sticker under the hood. You could open the hood and read the instructions to reset the drive belts. Just have to remember to move the speed selector to a...

I am not even going to ask why it was cut like that.

The Briggs push mower engines have the model number engraved into the side of the block covered with paint which can make it hard to find. The new CR engines have the model number engraved into the block next to the oil drain plug. And by the way the 8X65MU is a valid model number for the 159...