Recent content by Fish

Yeah, those are good too.

Or just use a business card....

I think that it means that it is not that critical. I just use a business card.

You can use the attachments on the fs91 trimmer.

Same goes for children!! Their magnets are quite brittle!!

Were you using 10w40?

https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/briggs_valve_gaps.asp

Also remove the valve covers and take a peek. Things may have rattled loose and messed up your valve clearances.

Look underneath, and look around the wheels.. You likely will see cracked and broken metal where the hardware is mounted.

These newer models have a coil with a weaker looking spark, and the rpms have to be pretty fast.

Was the top bushing wore out?

bigger too!

Yeah, I was never a fan of the "seal leaking when on its side" theory

Which one???

I see, it only shows 1 in the pic, and in the list it shows a quantity of 2.

Where is the other one? I see the one numbered #27.

Pop off the starter top and take a peek. Look closely at the kill wires/circuit, see what it looks like. On the ipl I only see 1 kill wire, I don't know it grounds to the block. But one of the terminals may be loose and shorting things out when turned on its side.

Go back with a smaller diameter one, that is longer, and use a locknut.

Yeah, likely water or dirt in the carb/bowl.

I don't know if it is what is happening in your case, but many folks make an observation of something, and immediately make it in their mind that the problem is there, and have a hard time looking elsewhere. So the engine runs fine until the engine gets hot?

Here is a bulletin.

Yours is bigger...........

The gas cap has no vent, the vent is in this pic, there were a couple different versions.

I have seen many fine running engines with clear filters that look empty. The problem is when the customer sees the phenomenon. He becomes so fixated on it, that anything that happens, in his mind the fault is fuel starvation, and he spends a whole lot of time and money in that direction...

Try loosening the cap when it starts to die. Also, is the tank higher than the carb? If you disconnect the fuel line at the pump, does the fuel flow? If so, drain it into a can and watch things flow. Is the tank clean, and the screen clear?

Compression gauges are pretty much useless on most of these engines.

Does the engine run fine? Or does the filter look like it is empty? Clear filters are nothing but trouble.

Take the top cover off and peek. Sounds like something up in there.

Usually on the twins, you don't have to remove the exhaust pipes, they usually set down into the muffler mounted on the tractor.

I've called them worse!!!

Have you tried richening up the mixture screws?

I remember encountering the problem before, and I don't remember the swap being able to work. Which is why I just sell the throttle cable with the carb...

The ones with the groove are still available. On making it work, did he say that you should swap the throttle shaft?

You might check your switches, as they may be the incorrect ones. They may look the same, but may work oppositely. Here is the schmatic that also shows the switch function. Also check the back of the keyswitch, there should be lettering on the back.

Well, if the carb in the pic is what they are selling, it will not work.

The carb in that ad shows a carb that takes the z-bend end.

Does your old carb have ref. #7?

It is worth $30 to not have to keep farkin' with it.

That looks like the newer style carb, your throttle cable might not work. That is why I include the throttle cable with mine.

You need a couple dashes of Slick50, and a teaspoon of MMO, to keep that oil slinger in good shape!

Sounds like a blown head gasket.

Can you put up some pics?

Zamas had a problem with the welch plugs falling out. Here is the 2019 retail price from the Stihl dealer around here: 4140 120 0619 Carburetor C1Q-S186 $34.50

Yes, you likely need new ones now. Leave the wires off until you figure it out. The kill wire goes to ground to shut the engine down, no voltage should be there. Have you recently replaced the keyswitch? Repaired any wires? Etc.??

This is a pretty good site. https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/briggs_valve_gaps.asp

It looks like it should work OK.

16mm and 5/8" are pretty much the same. Put up a pic of the top of the bolt. It should have some markings on it.

Sounds like it could be one of the newer crap engines, use a 15 mm. See if that fits better.

Also remove the cables and wire brush the terminals, as well as where it grounds to the frame.

You must be careful as to not accidently send voltage to the kill wire terminal, or you will burn up the brand new coil.

Put the "gear selector" on a lower setting. Put up the model number off of the tag under/behind the seat.

No, looks like the r.p.m.s are fairly close, and the fs130 will have more than enough power.

My wife probably bent it. She is real good at that sort of thing. She could tear up an anvil.

Here is a pic of the new one, from that site.

Is that part# 163?

The number off of the drive cable, and the date, and we should be able to come up with a model number that would be helpful.

Look on the cables for their part numbers, and put up the engine's numbers so we can get an approximate date.

Set the valves at .003 and .005 and see what happens. Turn the engine over by hand then, and watch the action of the rocker arms.

I do not see why not.

I would think so. I have a fs90 gearbox on my fs55, and it seems to work fine. The tube diameter and shaft are the same, correct?

Yeah, getting old, and fat, is why I don't work on mowers anymore.

Since you have the wheels off, disconnect the rod at the trans, and move all the parts. Move the lever on the trans, and compare the position of the pedal, you will likely see something as to the cause of your trouble.

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/craftsman-917986450-lawn-tractor-parts-c-158286_174089_491476.html

Loosen the nut on the bottom of the carb and drain the water/crap out. See if that helps.

You will have to give the model number off of the tag under/behind the seat.

Do not use cheap aftermarket junk, get a real Briggs gear.

Could be the muffler. Or one has an internal counter balance. Put up the complete set of model numbers of both. Mufflers usually are supplied by the tractor brand/company.

I mean jumped off where it rides on the engine pulley. If it jumped off, and is riding above the pulley on the shaft, things would still work, but much slower. And the belt won't last long either. Those belt covers cover things pretty close to keep debris out, so it is hard to look in there.

Take the top cover off and inspect as suggested. Just for fun, unplug the kill wire to the coil, then try to start it. Also check the wiring @ kill wire and fuel solenoid.

Take a better pic of the carb, and we can tell you where the mixture screws are. Backing them out a tad will likely get you running.

The engine is a Tecumseh. Take a closer pic of the numbers stamped here in the top cover, or type up the numbers.

The 536. prefix was for a company called "Noma", which got absorbed by Murray.

Likely the belt has jumped off. Don't run it long.

The engine is a Tecumseh, if you want to look for stuff on youtube on the carbs. If the float is brass, shake it to see if there is fuel inside.

Put up a pic of your old battery.

Also, put up a pic of the package that the new coil came in, it should look a little different than the old one.

You likely didn't torque things properly, and sheared the flywheel key.

A big lip will tell you a lot quickly. I would not buy any parts until you tear it down totally. An oversize piston and rings could be pricey.

Yeah, Hughesnet!!

I wanted to see pics to be able to talk you out of spending any money on this thing.

Put up some pics or a movie. I would have a hard time spending that much money on this mower. Noise could be from a loose engine, loose blade, or just a chunk of carbon. Pull the head off and take a peek before deciding or buying anything.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAKE-BAND-KIT-FOR-STIHL-CHAINSAW-028-BOX-2140-W/233691740638?hash=item36691cf9de:g:mscAAOSw4nVfRMD5

Find the part# 202 on your mower, that is the part more likely to break.

Here is a couple of snips of the blowup.

Disconnect the kill wire to the ignition while you figure things out, voltage will damage an ignition coil.

Also, re-look at the repair on the wiring to the fuel solenoid, generally wiring problems are where there was some repairing.

What do you mean negative charge to the coil? Did the new solenoid match the old one? Was the keyswitch you put on the correct one? The letters on the back must match, the same number of prongs don't mean that they are the same?

If you take some emory cloth and go over it, you should be able to clean it off to read the numbers.

Where did you find the av mounts?