Recent content by Fish

Put up your engine's model numbers.

Thread the bolt in a ways, but not to snug the pulley back to the shaft. Your goal is just to get it to start moving. Once you get it moving, unthread the bolt. You must thread it in a fair bit, otherwise you will booger up your threads.

No, using an impact brings a tight nut/bolt loose, but the stuck flywheel or pulley need a force that pushes or drives the crankshaft off. Once the pulley starts moving, then you unthread the bolt and take the pulley on off the shaft. Here is an instructional video I made to help folks. It is...

You are hitting the bolt, thus the crankshaft. The bolt threaded most of the way in protects the crank when striking.

The original trimmer's engine had a problem with carbon buildup, which can cause all kinds of freaky performance. Here is a bulletin for what they came out with.

4130 FS 36 1990-2000 FS 40, 44 1990-1999 FC 44 1994-2000

They are the same. One is a lot cheaper.

You got any pics??? It makes my wife mad....

I have seen Briggs with a bad cam run poorly, and tend to spit out gas.

Yeah, that water likes to sit in the bottom of things, and is hard to get rid of totally.

Empty out the gas totally, then start and run the engine. Run it until it runs out of gas and dies from that. See if it starts running better there at the end, to see if it is a carb problem.

Do the quick test. Unplug one spark plug wire, and try to start. Then try it the other way around. If it runs on one side and not the other, that will narrow it down. You may have an intake valve not fully closing, or the like.

Try jiggling it first, sometimes that will make it "click".

It freaks my dog out!

The only real problem is that you might hear a bang from the muffler when the engine shuts down. If not, don't worry about it.

Loosen the nut on the bottom of the carb, and let it drain. Look for beads of water. Water sits in the bottom and stays there, and causes all types of intermittant symptoms. Also why alcohol is used in the fuel, it mixes with the water and it burns off eventually...

On the lower side of the carb is a brass nut/plug. Remove it and watch the fuel dribble out a little. Inside there is a jet that can be removed using an allen head wrench, remove it. Then crank the engine a little and fuel should pulse out. Clean the jet out thoroughly, and reassemble...

Why did it break? Is something locked up, or was it old and badly cracked? Transmission belts don't normally "break"...

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/cub-cadet/huskee-husky/13-lawn-tractors/2016-models/13w878st031-lt-4600-2016/engine-accessories Lol, I am glad I don't work on them anymore!!

If there is still the old belt, you may be able to read the part number off of it.

Maybe we need to step back and look at it differently.......... Sorry about the crude graphics, but it was just easier for me...

Put up the tractor's model numbers on the tag under the seat. We might be able to look it up that way. https://www.amazon.com/huayi-carburetor/s?k=huayi+carburetor

Could be several things, but also could be as simple as some water in your fuel. Put up your engine's model numbers, or some pics, and we can try to help.

A layer of water in the bottom of the carb.

Sounds more like water in your fuel.

You check it for more than that. Just unplug the plug wire on one side, and try to start. Then do so on the other side. If it starts on one side only, then you know what side your problem is on.

Here, I think I was using this long before, but on this site, that was the earliest. https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/do-i-need-a-new-gasket-for-the-cylinder-or-can-i-use-the-old-one.58889/#post-848328

Yes, I remember seeing that video. Why, did he steal my space shuttle line? I've been using that one for a long time.

Who is Taryl?

This forum is about working on lawn mowers, not the space shuttle.

If I had an employee that wasted any time testing a spark plug, I would fire him.

Yeah, it looks just like the old one, just larger on the coarse thread end. Double nutting works fine on installing.

Could be a stuck intake valve. How is the compression when you pull the rope?

1123 664 2405 COLLAR SCREW $8.58

Stihl has an oversixed stud to fix this. Usually caused by running a saw with a totally wore out sprocket.

Yeah, I need to kidnap a teenager, to show me how to work the damn thing.

Usually neglected, generally not harmful. Even raises the compression ratio. If it is hard jagged carbon, it usually indicates oil/blowby carbon, and the rings are shot. Normal will be a dark powdery buildup, that can be easily removed.

Well, if you have 2 of the same engine, swap parts until you figure out what the problem is. I have done that a few times.

Flywheels and/or clutches, their removal and installation.

I have always been a big fan of knockers!

I am pretty much clueless on I phones, I was just happy to get a video that wasn't rotated 90 degrees on its side!!

That's all Greek to me!!!

The newer coils produce a weaker looking spark, I am guessing that your problem is elsewhere. What is or isn't it doing?

I like the videos of the guys taking a half hour to remove a chainsaw flywheel or clutch off of a chainsaw. Here is one I filmed a while back to show how easy it can be. It was my first attempt at making videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUhcXVMZKt4

I really didn't watch it. I just scrolled through it to see how he got the bolt/nut loose. I just zip it off with an impact wrench, but have done the "whacking the ratchet" technique before.

Yeah, it mimics an impact wrench. Why are you removing the flywheel?

Here, this guys imitates an impact wrench, using a ratchet/socket and a hammer.

Then, invest in the Briggs puller, after you get the bolt/nut loose.

No, just get someone with an impact wrench, don't use prybars

Folks usually just pop in a 30 and don't worry about it.

You are need to give us the model number and put up some pics, for anyone here to be of much help.

OK, I was mis-reading that. Glad it was an easy fix.

If it does the same thing when you moved plugs to the other side, then your problem is not that.

Now if you swapped plugs and it started again on the same side? Or started on the other side?

You need to do a quick diagnostic test. Unplug one spark plug wire and see if it starts, Then plug it back on, and remove the other side and see if it starts.

Take a cheap screwdriver and touch it to both of the big posts on the solenoid momentarily, and see if the engine turns over. Don't do this a lot, but that will tell us if the battery/starter is the problem or not.

Try it in a dark room, make sure that the side of the plug is touching the metal of the block.

Here, read the stuff @ the alternators.

Just swap the flywheels and alternators.

Yeah, if you have a bad cam, you would have to tear it completely down. Can you take a video of the rocker arms, while you rotate the flywheel 2 full revolutions? With the plug out, I mean. That is why the exhaust would be coming out of the intake, if the exhaust lobe was wiped out.

If you can take out a spark plug, then you can easily take off a rocker arm cover, usually takes a 10mm socket, and 4 fasteners come off. Look for the intake rocker arm-pushrod to be loose.

Take off the valve cover, and rotate the engine by hand, and watch the rocker arms. See if the rocker arms are both moving the same amount of travel. You may have a badly worn cam lobe.

I go by the crank engine, sparky or no sparky, diagnosis strategy....

Have you disconnected the kill wire, then checked for spark? These newer ignitions produce a very weak looking spark.

And was the detent ball in place correctly?

Were there little notches/tabs on the bushings, and did you make sure that they were lined up correctly?

Why did you replace the old one?

Valve adjustment just adlusts the clearance of the low part of the cam lobe and valve/rocker arm, I am talking about the tip of the lobes. The performance of the engine gets wonky if one lobe gets worn way down. Here is a video off of youtube. Like I was saying, just remove the valve cover...

Put it back together and on the tractor.....

On the older models, the pulley sheave would get sticky, and would not want to change speeds correctly. I would give a well aimed shot of wd-40 toward the center to try and get some lube in there. Also try moving the speed selector while moving without depressing the pedal when it starts...

If not, you should take off the valve cover, and rotate the engine by hand and observe the rocker arms, and make sure the both move the same. There was a problem with cam lobes wiping out on the cam shafts there for a while.

I had one brought to me with similar problems, I put in a new {good brand} spark plug, and it fixed it. Another time, the plugs were carboned over so bad that the carbon was almost touching.

Sorry, this one. Page 37... http://www.kohlerengines.com/engines/onlinecatalog/pdf/32_690_01_EN.pdf

Page 38-39. http://www.kohlerengines.com/engines/onlinecatalog/pdf/24_690_30_EN.pdf

SV735-0018 https://www.partstree.com/models/sv735-0018-kohler-courage-twin-engine-made-for-b-s-26hp-19-4kw/igniton-charging-group-5-32-24-10/ This parts list says that you have a S.A.M. unit.

Normally the kill wire would go to a terminal on the keyswitch. But we would need to know what keyswitch you have to tell you which one.

We need to know what kind of engine you have. Can you at least take a quick pic of it? Do you have a S.A.M. module on it?

If it suddenly got overfull on its own, then likely a flooding carb, and you have fuel in your oil. Better fix it correctly.

On the gray switch, look closely at the terminal blades for letters.

Or a quick pic or two.

Also, find and post the model numbers off of the engine.

It would be dependant on which engine you have on that tractor. Also, what is the model number on the hood? Is it 212-5?

Look like this?

You should look for a schematic of the model tractor that it is.

Sounds like a slipping belt to me.

How did you attach the spring/thingee to the wire? It is a pain to do.

Do these help?

Have you tried another spark plug? Take it off and look at it.

Yeah, mainly peek at the piston for damage, or it could be badly carboned over as well.

Looking at your video, I would suggest you remove and inspect the muffler and screen, look for obstruction, and peek at the piston. Also, when it is back together, while it is running, remove the air filter and see if things change drastically.

Sounds like the needle is leaking, or you have lost a welch plug. Here is a bulletin that discusses carb adj.

Doesn't matter, they won't vibrate loose and fall off.

Personally, if you have access to both sides, I would use bolts and locknuts.

Rapid clicking could be a burned or corroded connection that is weak. Test at night in the dark, look for sparks when trying to crank. Look at the ground connection.

Chinese junk is a roll of the dice. They are not all equal.

Yeah, examine the fuel line, they develop cracks. The also can get soft and gummy, and collapse and pinch together.

I haven't shipped anything to Europe for years, too many losses.

You need to try and start with the blade on the mower. Starting without the blade can cause the kickback.

The third number is the date code. 2003....

The second one is the type number, and is critical in determining the correct carb.

How could anyone know this? So you can only order from sellers in Belgium?

https://www.milfordpower.com/Tecumseh-Carburetor-Bowls-Bowl-Nuts-Floats-Float-Pins-s/2269.htm

Yeah, It slowed me down!!

Look from the top at what I circled in red, looks like they are there.

Snap a pic of the front and sides of the engine, the numbers should be there.

Put up the model numbers off of your engine, the Sears site is not too reliable.

Look at the side of the switch with the prongs, there should be a letter on or around each prong. Compare it with your old one. Improper switch can damage your ignition coil, so be careful.

Just use the choke to start it only. See if it stays running if you take the tape off and let the choke flapper spring open. You could rig up a cable or pull to move the choke, so it can easily be opened or closed.

Great, glad to hear it!!

Yes, the choke being shut causes a lot more fuel to get sucked up into the engine, kind of like a shot of gas from the primer...

Put a piece of tape on the top that will hold the choke closed, and then try to start. It probably will. But once it does, it will run very rich, unless you pull the tape off quickly.

When did oil coming out the exhaust come into the discussion? The oil is likely from turning the engine on it's side to work on it. It will burn off after a while. Your running/starting problem is likely your engine's old points/condensor ignition, older folks know about things like this...

No need to remove the flywheel.

Just clip the wire to the points, and pop on the new coil, and go. Hook up the kill wire, if it has one

Points. Replace the coil with the newer version with ignition chip inside.

Just have someone crank the engine, while holding your finger over the spark plug holes. No compression, get a new mower.

Take off your air filter and look into the throat, and then press the primer bulb firmly several times. You should see a pulse of fuel splash up with every button press. The gasket between the air filter base needs to be perfect for this operation to succeed, sometime beefed up with a little...

If you can at least put up any pic of the engine, we can have a better idea of what you have.

Yeah, if it is flooded, you ought to drain all of the fuel, and pull start it with the trigger wide open, until you get a hit. Otherwise, you should remove the muffler and take a peek at the piston. Also check the flywheel key. But try the flooding thing first.

Well, if it is plugged, it will run rich for a while. So do not use the choke for the first pulls, it may be flooded too.

Have you checked the screen in the muffler?

Could just be water in your fuel system. It likes to sit in low spots and will get sucked up into the engine from time to time, like turning, bumps, uphill, etc..

Put up some pics.

You need to put up some pics, and an engine model number.

What color?

No, sounds like it is fine. You need to go back with the correct belt though, one "the same length" won't work.

This one would be a pain to make. Call a few Stihl dealers, they may still have one in stock. When looking for parts, the fs36, fs40, and fs44 all used pretty much the same engine. https://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-2-Carburetor-Mount-Gaskets-Fits-Stihl-41301290900-FS36-FS40-FS44-Trimmer-/293126174951

Buy a new tractor, sell the old one for $100 or so.

It should look like this one. The screen would be under the hood scoop looking thingy.

Those models were actually old Ryan/Ryobi models, and the standard k20-WAT should fit it fine. There will be extra/different gaskets, as those kits cover many different carbs, the k10-wat kit is pretty close to the same, but the k20 has both sizes of the needles, so I like to get that one.