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First time Buyer
#1
LawnoftheDad
LawnoftheDad
Hello everybody!
I'd like to start off by saying how amazed I am at the level of expertise and experience on here. I discovered this forum today as I began research to purchase my very first ride-on lawn mower and have been very appreciative of the knowledge that's floating around these threads.
With that said, while I am actively researching the old posts on here, I am in a bit of a time crunch because I need to decide if I'll be continuing with my lawn service next week and so I wanted to simultaneously start a thread here to take a more direct approach at information-gathering.
My property is roughly 1 acre with a small-medium slope at two locations. Most of what I found online pointed to the Cub Cadet XT1 Enduro line as a budget-friendly but reliable residential tractor. Of those, the 46" or 50" stands out to me as a good width. I used my neighbor's 2010 Troy Bilt (42" deck) to establish the time I'll need to commit if I make this switch, and I finished the mowing part in an hour and 15 minutes. So, I figure the 46/50 will shave some time off that while still allowing me to reach the tight spots that I was able to get into with my neighbor's tractor.
As to those two models, besides the cutting width, the other factors are the engine size (kohler 22hp vs. 24hp) and the deck (stamped vs. fabricated). I have a CC snowblower that has served me well for several years so I am partial to the big yellow SOBs, but I'm also receptive to hearing if someone recommends going a different route (Deere, Toro, etc..). I should say, I am not terribly interested in a zero turn as I don't have much property and I think I'll be using this in the winter for some light plowing as well.
The other X-factor that I've had a hard time finding info on is whether the XT2 is worth the bump in cost for the "premium" parts. Not sure if that's more marketing or actual substantial and superior quality.
Thank you in advance for any and all contributions and happy mowing!
I'd like to start off by saying how amazed I am at the level of expertise and experience on here. I discovered this forum today as I began research to purchase my very first ride-on lawn mower and have been very appreciative of the knowledge that's floating around these threads.
With that said, while I am actively researching the old posts on here, I am in a bit of a time crunch because I need to decide if I'll be continuing with my lawn service next week and so I wanted to simultaneously start a thread here to take a more direct approach at information-gathering.
My property is roughly 1 acre with a small-medium slope at two locations. Most of what I found online pointed to the Cub Cadet XT1 Enduro line as a budget-friendly but reliable residential tractor. Of those, the 46" or 50" stands out to me as a good width. I used my neighbor's 2010 Troy Bilt (42" deck) to establish the time I'll need to commit if I make this switch, and I finished the mowing part in an hour and 15 minutes. So, I figure the 46/50 will shave some time off that while still allowing me to reach the tight spots that I was able to get into with my neighbor's tractor.
As to those two models, besides the cutting width, the other factors are the engine size (kohler 22hp vs. 24hp) and the deck (stamped vs. fabricated). I have a CC snowblower that has served me well for several years so I am partial to the big yellow SOBs, but I'm also receptive to hearing if someone recommends going a different route (Deere, Toro, etc..). I should say, I am not terribly interested in a zero turn as I don't have much property and I think I'll be using this in the winter for some light plowing as well.
The other X-factor that I've had a hard time finding info on is whether the XT2 is worth the bump in cost for the "premium" parts. Not sure if that's more marketing or actual substantial and superior quality.
Thank you in advance for any and all contributions and happy mowing!
#2
7394
7394
Welcome Aboard !
#3
TonyPrin
TonyPrin
Starting with your last question, the XT2 costs about $300 more than the XT1. The upgraded parts would cost that much if you did them all. I think the bumper is most important starting out and the armrests are least. My suggestion would be to stick with the XT1 until you see which upgrades, if any, are important to you.
In terms of size, you can certainly save time with the larger deck but how much would depend on the lawn dimensions. For example, where you have tight spaces up to about 25', the number of passes is likely to be the same because you're only saving a few inches per pass. Open areas (like a football field) will save the most time with the larger deck. Engine size can be important, particularly if you add a cart, vacuum, or other accessories. A fabricated deck will last longer but you should maintain either one. Overall, I'd choose the 50", not so much for the size as the power and fabricated deck.
Deere is an excellent brand, at least on par with Cub Cadet. If the models were comparable and money about the same, I'd probably take the Deere. Having said that, the XT1 with today's Kohler engine is a good machine and one that will serve you well. If the models are comparable and the Cub Cadet is cheaper, I'd have no problem with the Cub Cadet. Overll, I agree with your description of the Enduro as "a budget-friendly but reliable residential tractor".
In terms of size, you can certainly save time with the larger deck but how much would depend on the lawn dimensions. For example, where you have tight spaces up to about 25', the number of passes is likely to be the same because you're only saving a few inches per pass. Open areas (like a football field) will save the most time with the larger deck. Engine size can be important, particularly if you add a cart, vacuum, or other accessories. A fabricated deck will last longer but you should maintain either one. Overall, I'd choose the 50", not so much for the size as the power and fabricated deck.
Deere is an excellent brand, at least on par with Cub Cadet. If the models were comparable and money about the same, I'd probably take the Deere. Having said that, the XT1 with today's Kohler engine is a good machine and one that will serve you well. If the models are comparable and the Cub Cadet is cheaper, I'd have no problem with the Cub Cadet. Overll, I agree with your description of the Enduro as "a budget-friendly but reliable residential tractor".
#4
Tiger Small Engine
I would go with a low end big box store zero turn. Brand doesn’t matter, they are all cheaply made at the approximate $3500 price point. Cub Cadet, John Deere, Troy Bilt, etc. (riding mowers) at the low end big box store equipment, there is very little difference in quality or features.
Tiger Small Engine
Hello everybody!
I'd like to start off by saying how amazed I am at the level of expertise and experience on here. I discovered this forum today as I began research to purchase my very first ride-on lawn mower and have been very appreciative of the knowledge that's floating around these threads.
With that said, while I am actively researching the old posts on here, I am in a bit of a time crunch because I need to decide if I'll be continuing with my lawn service next week and so I wanted to simultaneously start a thread here to take a more direct approach at information-gathering.
My property is roughly 1 acre with a small-medium slope at two locations. Most of what I found online pointed to the Cub Cadet XT1 Enduro line as a budget-friendly but reliable residential tractor. Of those, the 46" or 50" stands out to me as a good width. I used my neighbor's 2010 Troy Bilt (42" deck) to establish the time I'll need to commit if I make this switch, and I finished the mowing part in an hour and 15 minutes. So, I figure the 46/50 will shave some time off that while still allowing me to reach the tight spots that I was able to get into with my neighbor's tractor.
As to those two models, besides the cutting width, the other factors are the engine size (kohler 22hp vs. 24hp) and the deck (stamped vs. fabricated). I have a CC snowblower that has served me well for several years so I am partial to the big yellow SOBs, but I'm also receptive to hearing if someone recommends going a different route (Deere, Toro, etc..). I should say, I am not terribly interested in a zero turn as I don't have much property and I think I'll be using this in the winter for some light plowing as well.
The other X-factor that I've had a hard time finding info on is whether the XT2 is worth the bump in cost for the "premium" parts. Not sure if that's more marketing or actual substantial and superior quality.
Thank you in advance for any and all contributions and happy mowing!
I would go with a low end big box store zero turn. Brand doesn’t matter, they are all cheaply made at the approximate $3500 price point. Cub Cadet, John Deere, Troy Bilt, etc. (riding mowers) at the low end big box store equipment, there is very little difference in quality or features.
#5
G
GearHead36
G
GearHead36
If $300 bumps you up to a fabricated deck, I'd go that route. Upgrading the deck would be cost prohibitive. Like others have said, you still have to maintain either one. If you ever have some brush that, even though you know you shouldn't, you decide to mow it anyway, you'll be glad for the fabricated deck. I'd also go with a v-twin engine. All of the v-twins, whether from Kawasaki, Kohler or Briggs, are better than their singles.
#6
bkeller500
bkeller500
I have seen too many bad reviews on Cub units. Even looking at them in a showroom I see weaknesses that turn me away. With simplicity exiting the game, that leaves JD as a better option. Anything less than the 300X series from JD is subject to wear issues but then again depending on your use on 1-acre you could get 5 or 6 years of good service life and go from there. To me it's all about the deck and the look after the mow. Simplicity Fabricated decks preformed very well.....might be a good Simplicity out there! Look at your neighbors yards...which one looks best to you? What do they use?
#7
LawnoftheDad
Thank you for the info. As to your question, unfortunately there are very few houses in my development that actually cut their own lawn. Of those that do, only two use a ride-on tractor. The Troy Bilt that I borrowed from my neighbor did a good job on my property for the test run, while my other neighbor uses a zero-turn, but for aforementioned reasons I'm not particularly interested in that level of mower. Also, I like but don't need the clearly defined lines that the commercial guys roll into the lawn.
LawnoftheDad
I have seen too many bad reviews on Cub units. Even looking at them in a showroom I see weaknesses that turn me away. With simplicity exiting the game, that leaves JD as a better option. Anything less than the 300X series from JD is subject to wear issues but then again depending on your use on 1-acre you could get 5 or 6 years of good service life and go from there. To me it's all about the deck and the look after the mow. Simplicity Fabricated decks preformed very well.....might be a good Simplicity out there! Look at your neighbors yards...which one looks best to you? What do they use?
Thank you for the info. As to your question, unfortunately there are very few houses in my development that actually cut their own lawn. Of those that do, only two use a ride-on tractor. The Troy Bilt that I borrowed from my neighbor did a good job on my property for the test run, while my other neighbor uses a zero-turn, but for aforementioned reasons I'm not particularly interested in that level of mower. Also, I like but don't need the clearly defined lines that the commercial guys roll into the lawn.
#8
LawnoftheDad
Thank you for the info, that's a good point about the lawn dimensions. A fair amount of property is wide open so I do think that speaks to the 50". Another thing I saw was that the 50" has 3 blades while the 46" only has 2...does the larger number of blades typically equate to better results?
What is the significance of the bumper, is it that it allows you to get close to things without fear of cracking the front end?
LawnoftheDad
Starting with your last question, the XT2 costs about $300 more than the XT1. The upgraded parts would cost that much if you did them all. I think the bumper is most important starting out and the armrests are least. My suggestion would be to stick with the XT1 until you see which upgrades, if any, are important to you.
In terms of size, you can certainly save time with the larger deck but how much would depend on the lawn dimensions. For example, where you have tight spaces up to about 25', the number of passes is likely to be the same because you're only saving a few inches per pass. Open areas (like a football field) will save the most time with the larger deck. Engine size can be important, particularly if you add a cart, vacuum, or other accessories. A fabricated deck will last longer but you should maintain either one. Overall, I'd choose the 50", not so much for the size as the power and fabricated deck.
Deere is an excellent brand, at least on par with Cub Cadet. If the models were comparable and money about the same, I'd probably take the Deere. Having said that, the XT1 with today's Kohler engine is a good machine and one that will serve you well. If the models are comparable and the Cub Cadet is cheaper, I'd have no problem with the Cub Cadet. Overll, I agree with your description of the Enduro as "a budget-friendly but reliable residential tractor".
Thank you for the info, that's a good point about the lawn dimensions. A fair amount of property is wide open so I do think that speaks to the 50". Another thing I saw was that the 50" has 3 blades while the 46" only has 2...does the larger number of blades typically equate to better results?
What is the significance of the bumper, is it that it allows you to get close to things without fear of cracking the front end?
#9
LawnoftheDad
Duly noted. In regards to the engine, all of the CC Kohlers are "twin cylinder"; is that the same as v-twins?
LawnoftheDad
If $300 bumps you up to a fabricated deck, I'd go that route. Upgrading the deck would be cost prohibitive. Like others have said, you still have to maintain either one. If you ever have some brush that, even though you know you shouldn't, you decide to mow it anyway, you'll be glad for the fabricated deck. I'd also go with a v-twin engine. All of the v-twins, whether from Kawasaki, Kohler or Briggs, are better than their singles.
Duly noted. In regards to the engine, all of the CC Kohlers are "twin cylinder"; is that the same as v-twins?
#10
G
GearHead36
G
GearHead36
Yes.Duly noted. In regards to the engine, all of the CC Kohlers are "twin cylinder"; is that the same as v-twins?
#11
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
If you ever need to transport it in a pick up truck , a 42 inch will fit but a 48 inch wont and maybe a 46 inch won;t go in . For deck cleaning and blade maintenance i prefer a 42" cut .
I'd be looking at the J Deer mods .
vanwall.com
I'd be looking at the J Deer mods .
John Deere S130 Lawn Tractor
Shop the affordable, comfortable, easy-to-use John Deere S130 Lawn Tractor at Van Wall Equipment, the Midwest's clear first choice for over 70 years.
vanwall.com
#12
TonyPrin
TonyPrin
The bumper is only on the front and just protection. It helps when going around things, when you put it away, or if other things bang into it.What is the significance of the bumper, is it that it allows you to get close to things without fear of cracking the front end?
#13
old yooper
old yooper
Whatever mower you choose, try to buy from a (local) dealer that does maintenance on mowers and other small engine equipment.
Even if you do most or all the maintenance yourself, the reason for this is that the dealer will usually have parts in stock and should be able to answer questions and not just questions about the mower you purchased.
Even if you do most or all the maintenance yourself, the reason for this is that the dealer will usually have parts in stock and should be able to answer questions and not just questions about the mower you purchased.
#14
MyGrassHasCrabs
MyGrassHasCrabs
SeniorCitizen has a great point - I have a couple of acres & have used a 42" (JD) for 20+ years. It fits fine in the bed of a pickup, but anything larger would be a problem. Also, if you have any flower beds or natural areas you mow around, it's easier to maneuver around those with a smaller deck. You might end up spending 10 minutes more mowing with a smaller 42" over a 50", but it's less expensive to purchase initially too. Then again, if you're looking to do some heavy tasks such as winter plowing, etc., then you might benefit from the bigger footprint of a 50".
#15
B
barny57
B
barny57
I have a JDX 485 and a JD 425 I have snow blowers for both and leaf carts if you look around you can Find some good deals I have $5600 in everything I’ve had both for many years neither one has ever been in the shop but you have to do your maintenance both the machines the decks and snowblowers are shaft drive no beltsHello everybody!
I'd like to start off by saying how amazed I am at the level of expertise and experience on here. I discovered this forum today as I began research to purchase my very first ride-on lawn mower and have been very appreciative of the knowledge that's floating around these threads.
With that said, while I am actively researching the old posts on here, I am in a bit of a time crunch because I need to decide if I'll be continuing with my lawn service next week and so I wanted to simultaneously start a thread here to take a more direct approach at information-gathering.
My property is roughly 1 acre with a small-medium slope at two locations. Most of what I found online pointed to the Cub Cadet XT1 Enduro line as a budget-friendly but reliable residential tractor. Of those, the 46" or 50" stands out to me as a good width. I used my neighbor's 2010 Troy Bilt (42" deck) to establish the time I'll need to commit if I make this switch, and I finished the mowing part in an hour and 15 minutes. So, I figure the 46/50 will shave some time off that while still allowing me to reach the tight spots that I was able to get into with my neighbor's tractor.
As to those two models, besides the cutting width, the other factors are the engine size (kohler 22hp vs. 24hp) and the deck (stamped vs. fabricated). I have a CC snowblower that has served me well for several years so I am partial to the big yellow SOBs, but I'm also receptive to hearing if someone recommends going a different route (Deere, Toro, etc..). I should say, I am not terribly interested in a zero turn as I don't have much property and I think I'll be using this in the winter for some light plowing as well.
The other X-factor that I've had a hard time finding info on is whether the XT2 is worth the bump in cost for the "premium" parts. Not sure if that's more marketing or actual substantial and superior quality.
Thank you in advance for any and all contributions and happy mowing!
#16
2
2muchgrass2mow
2
2muchgrass2mow
Howdy!
I am 73, and since '92 I have owned 2 Craftman's, a Cub, a lesser JD, a Husq YT42DXLS and now a JD X-370 - all 42 in. decks (I can't get anything larger in my basement but wouldn't want a larger deck even if I could)! For me, the absolute worst lawn tractor I ever owned (for like a minute
) was the Cub. I bought it new from a dealer, and the very first time I mowed with it the left front tire fell off, the gas cap leaked to the point it was dangerous and eventually the tank wound up being replaced. It was loud and, worst of all, used way more oil than acceptable. I don't remember the engine, HP or the model #, but it was a POS . . . Finally, it reeked of cheapness all around. Perhaps I just got hold of a bad one, but no second chances for CC.
If I had your lawn - which sounds rather flat to rolling, with few or no rocks, trees, etc., and only an acre, I likely would go with the 42 in. deck. You may find that a huge deck is not nearly as maneuverable and will not follow as closely the undulations of the lawn. Additionally, you may get into a 3-blade situation - more difficult and costly blade maintenance.
I mow 1/2 acre of rolling chain link fenced yard with an outbuilding, a few large rocks and some basketball sized, and an open, one-acre field which is at best rough, and which also is about 1/3 hillside - so steep that a locking differential was necessary until that Husqvarna I mentioned kept trashing trannys. I got rid of it and paid over 6K for the best tractor I've ever owned - a JD X-370. Maneuverability is everything to me. 42 in. deck, hydraulic power steering and deck lift and 2 JD 45lb. weights to conquer those hills - which are FAR too steep for a zero turn! It's a horse! You don't need weights, but the power steering is effing WONDERFUL. It's almost like a zero turn in that respect. Check one out at a dealer and give it a spin!
One other thing whatever you get: armrests are a bonus, but the bumper I bought is now hanging on my basement wall. All it does is keep you 6-8 in. from maximum cutting coverage. Happy shopping!
I am 73, and since '92 I have owned 2 Craftman's, a Cub, a lesser JD, a Husq YT42DXLS and now a JD X-370 - all 42 in. decks (I can't get anything larger in my basement but wouldn't want a larger deck even if I could)! For me, the absolute worst lawn tractor I ever owned (for like a minute
) was the Cub. I bought it new from a dealer, and the very first time I mowed with it the left front tire fell off, the gas cap leaked to the point it was dangerous and eventually the tank wound up being replaced. It was loud and, worst of all, used way more oil than acceptable. I don't remember the engine, HP or the model #, but it was a POS . . . Finally, it reeked of cheapness all around. Perhaps I just got hold of a bad one, but no second chances for CC.If I had your lawn - which sounds rather flat to rolling, with few or no rocks, trees, etc., and only an acre, I likely would go with the 42 in. deck. You may find that a huge deck is not nearly as maneuverable and will not follow as closely the undulations of the lawn. Additionally, you may get into a 3-blade situation - more difficult and costly blade maintenance.
I mow 1/2 acre of rolling chain link fenced yard with an outbuilding, a few large rocks and some basketball sized, and an open, one-acre field which is at best rough, and which also is about 1/3 hillside - so steep that a locking differential was necessary until that Husqvarna I mentioned kept trashing trannys. I got rid of it and paid over 6K for the best tractor I've ever owned - a JD X-370. Maneuverability is everything to me. 42 in. deck, hydraulic power steering and deck lift and 2 JD 45lb. weights to conquer those hills - which are FAR too steep for a zero turn! It's a horse! You don't need weights, but the power steering is effing WONDERFUL. It's almost like a zero turn in that respect. Check one out at a dealer and give it a spin!
One other thing whatever you get: armrests are a bonus, but the bumper I bought is now hanging on my basement wall. All it does is keep you 6-8 in. from maximum cutting coverage. Happy shopping!
#17
2
2muchgrass2mow
2
2muchgrass2mow
Great point, SC!If you ever need to transport it in a pick up truck , a 42 inch will fit but a 48 inch wont and maybe a 46 inch won;t go in . For deck cleaning and blade maintenance i prefer a 42" cut .
I'd be looking at the J Deer mods .
John Deere S130 Lawn Tractor
Shop the affordable, comfortable, easy-to-use John Deere S130 Lawn Tractor at Van Wall Equipment, the Midwest's clear first choice for over 70 years.
#18
T
TobyU
It's not convenient and you have to pull the deck up above one side onto the wheel well but it can be done.
T
TobyU
I've cut 48-in deck riding lawn mowers in a standard Chevy 8-ft pickup bed many times.If you ever need to transport it in a pick up truck , a 42 inch will fit but a 48 inch wont and maybe a 46 inch won;t go in . For deck cleaning and blade maintenance i prefer a 42" cut .
I'd be looking at the J Deer mods .
John Deere S130 Lawn Tractor
Shop the affordable, comfortable, easy-to-use John Deere S130 Lawn Tractor at Van Wall Equipment, the Midwest's clear first choice for over 70 years.
It's not convenient and you have to pull the deck up above one side onto the wheel well but it can be done.
#19
T
TobyU
T
TobyU
To be honest, if I were the neighbor to the OP and we had identical lots. He could go out and buy whichever new one he wanted and I can get on Craigslist or market price and buy a used 42 or 48-in rider.
We could go 15 years or 20 into the future if you want to and I very well might be on my second or even third riding mower but I'm guessing I would still be on the 2nd maybe even the first, but we could total up how much money I spent on my rider(s) and how much he spent on his one new one.
I guarantee he would have spent a lot more money than I would.
This doesn't account for repairs but not really worried about that at this point.
I really don't see the use in buying new equipment.
The further we go into the future the cheaper quality and worse it gets and the price keeps going up.
It's simply a tool to get the job done.
I'm currently mowing my lawn with a grasshopper that's either a 92 or 94 model that I bought used for $750 back in 2009.
It will more than likely last another 15 years.
I haven't done anything to it but change the hydro oil one time after I got it and change the oil a few times but certainly not a lot.
I did have to put a new belt on it as the old one was out of adjustment and had a lot of rubber dust on it but it's been fairly trouble-free.
We could go 15 years or 20 into the future if you want to and I very well might be on my second or even third riding mower but I'm guessing I would still be on the 2nd maybe even the first, but we could total up how much money I spent on my rider(s) and how much he spent on his one new one.
I guarantee he would have spent a lot more money than I would.
This doesn't account for repairs but not really worried about that at this point.
I really don't see the use in buying new equipment.
The further we go into the future the cheaper quality and worse it gets and the price keeps going up.
It's simply a tool to get the job done.
I'm currently mowing my lawn with a grasshopper that's either a 92 or 94 model that I bought used for $750 back in 2009.
It will more than likely last another 15 years.
I haven't done anything to it but change the hydro oil one time after I got it and change the oil a few times but certainly not a lot.
I did have to put a new belt on it as the old one was out of adjustment and had a lot of rubber dust on it but it's been fairly trouble-free.
#20
M
Midnight_Rider
M
Midnight_Rider
See if you can borrow the other neighbors zero turn and see if you really dislike them as most people love the faster cutting times,no gear selecting,better handling and steering of zero turns.. 3 blades vs 2 blades is a much better,faster cut in my opinion,and 50" zero turns can be found reasonably priced vs bigger fancier ZTs.. On the other hand most 2 bladed 42,46,48 standard riding mowers are all built by 1 or 2 companies such as AYP, and almost all the same other than paint,decals,engine choices and they generally have the same problems, wear the same,about the same maintenance costs,etc.
Major brands like JD,Skag,Grasshopper,and other higher end mowers and ZTs get pretty pricey quickly and often have higher parts costs than the more generic AYP brands ; Husqvarna, Craftsman, Murray,Cub Cadet,Troy Bilt,box stores Toro,etc... if price is no object then go find a Kubota stealership and throw down on one of their diesel models which are pretty good if you want super fast cutting,and don't mind the costs..
Major brands like JD,Skag,Grasshopper,and other higher end mowers and ZTs get pretty pricey quickly and often have higher parts costs than the more generic AYP brands ; Husqvarna, Craftsman, Murray,Cub Cadet,Troy Bilt,box stores Toro,etc... if price is no object then go find a Kubota stealership and throw down on one of their diesel models which are pretty good if you want super fast cutting,and don't mind the costs..
#21
M
MParr
MTD is now Stanley Black and Decker. They build the majority of lawn tractors. Cub Cadet, Craftsman, Troy Bilt, and etc.
Toro is Toro and Exmark. Toro does not make lawn tractors.
Briggs and Stratton makes Snapper, Simplicity, and Ferris. Ferris doesn’t make lawn tractors. Snapper and Simplicity are becoming an endangered species in the lawn tractor world.
John Deere makes all of their lawn tractors and do not subcontract out their manufacturing.
M
MParr
AYP was gobbled up by HusqvarnaSee if you can borrow the other neighbors zero turn and see if you really dislike them as most people love the faster cutting times,no gear selecting,better handling and steering of zero turns.. 3 blades vs 2 blades is a much better,faster cut in my opinion,and 50" zero turns can be found reasonably priced vs bigger fancier ZTs.. On the other hand most 2 bladed 42,46,48 standard riding mowers are all built by 1 or 2 companies such as AYP, and almost all the same other than paint,decals,engine choices and they generally have the same problems, wear the same,about the same maintenance costs,etc.
Major brands like JD,Skag,Grasshopper,and other higher end mowers and ZTs get pretty pricey quickly and often have higher parts costs than the more generic AYP brands ; Husqvarna, Craftsman, Murray,Cub Cadet,Troy Bilt,box stores Toro,etc... if price is no object then go find a Kubota stealership and throw down on one of their diesel models which are pretty good if you want super fast cutting,and don't mind the costs..
MTD is now Stanley Black and Decker. They build the majority of lawn tractors. Cub Cadet, Craftsman, Troy Bilt, and etc.
Toro is Toro and Exmark. Toro does not make lawn tractors.
Briggs and Stratton makes Snapper, Simplicity, and Ferris. Ferris doesn’t make lawn tractors. Snapper and Simplicity are becoming an endangered species in the lawn tractor world.
John Deere makes all of their lawn tractors and do not subcontract out their manufacturing.
#22
M
MParr
Do yourself a favor and go to the local John Deere dealer to purchase any new John Deere lawn tractor.
M
MParr
For your particular application, I would look at a 48” John Deere lawn tractor.Hello everybody!
I'd like to start off by saying how amazed I am at the level of expertise and experience on here. I discovered this forum today as I began research to purchase my very first ride-on lawn mower and have been very appreciative of the knowledge that's floating around these threads.
With that said, while I am actively researching the old posts on here, I am in a bit of a time crunch because I need to decide if I'll be continuing with my lawn service next week and so I wanted to simultaneously start a thread here to take a more direct approach at information-gathering.
My property is roughly 1 acre with a small-medium slope at two locations. Most of what I found online pointed to the Cub Cadet XT1 Enduro line as a budget-friendly but reliable residential tractor. Of those, the 46" or 50" stands out to me as a good width. I used my neighbor's 2010 Troy Bilt (42" deck) to establish the time I'll need to commit if I make this switch, and I finished the mowing part in an hour and 15 minutes. So, I figure the 46/50 will shave some time off that while still allowing me to reach the tight spots that I was able to get into with my neighbor's tractor.
As to those two models, besides the cutting width, the other factors are the engine size (kohler 22hp vs. 24hp) and the deck (stamped vs. fabricated). I have a CC snowblower that has served me well for several years so I am partial to the big yellow SOBs, but I'm also receptive to hearing if someone recommends going a different route (Deere, Toro, etc..). I should say, I am not terribly interested in a zero turn as I don't have much property and I think I'll be using this in the winter for some light plowing as well.
The other X-factor that I've had a hard time finding info on is whether the XT2 is worth the bump in cost for the "premium" parts. Not sure if that's more marketing or actual substantial and superior quality.
Thank you in advance for any and all contributions and happy mowing!
Do yourself a favor and go to the local John Deere dealer to purchase any new John Deere lawn tractor.
#23
G
GearHead36
G
GearHead36
My problem with 2-blade mowers is that most of them have single cylinder engines. The twins from Briggs, Kaw, and Kohler are all better than their singles, and run smoother with less vibration.
#24
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
I have a much easier suggestion to load a 48 " tractor mower . Leave the tail gate down allowing the rear wheels to rest on the gate .I've cut 48-in deck riding lawn mowers in a standard Chevy 8-ft pickup bed many times.
It's not convenient and you have to pull the deck up above one side onto the wheel well but it can be done.
#25
2
2muchgrass2mow
2
2muchgrass2mow
They run much cooler too.My problem with 2-blade mowers is that most of them have single cylinder engines. The twins from Briggs, Kaw, and Kohler are all better than their singles, and run smoother with less vibration.
#26
M
MParr
Example: https://www.deere.com/en/mowers/lawn-tractors/100-series/s140-lawn-tractor/
M
MParr
My problem with 2-blade mowers is that most of them have single cylinder engines. The twins from Briggs, Kaw, and Kohler are all better than their singles, and run smoother with less vibration.
That’s not necessarily the case. Look at the John Deere lineup.My problem with 2-blade mowers is that most of them have single cylinder engines. The twins from Briggs, Kaw, and Kohler are all better than their singles, and run smoother with less vibration.
Example: https://www.deere.com/en/mowers/lawn-tractors/100-series/s140-lawn-tractor/
#27
S
stirs
S
stirs
I have 1 acre all flat with trees, gardens and a wild spot. I been using my 2005 Super Bronco Troy 42'' cut and it still going strong. I do all the service which has been belts, blades, oil service etc. My neighbor has 2 acres using a Toro Zero turn. Last Fall he was having trouble so he burrowed my Troy. He just bought a Cub Cadet rider hope he gets a good one. At my 1/3 acre primary residence I bought a 12hp Ranch King (MTD) that lasted 32 years. I replaced it with a cheap Lowe's JD 17hp. New is nice time will tell. They rate it 10 year life span.Hello everybody!
I'd like to start off by saying how amazed I am at the level of expertise and experience on here. I discovered this forum today as I began research to purchase my very first ride-on lawn mower and have been very appreciative of the knowledge that's floating around these threads.
With that said, while I am actively researching the old posts on here, I am in a bit of a time crunch because I need to decide if I'll be continuing with my lawn service next week and so I wanted to simultaneously start a thread here to take a more direct approach at information-gathering.
My property is roughly 1 acre with a small-medium slope at two locations. Most of what I found online pointed to the Cub Cadet XT1 Enduro line as a budget-friendly but reliable residential tractor. Of those, the 46" or 50" stands out to me as a good width. I used my neighbor's 2010 Troy Bilt (42" deck) to establish the time I'll need to commit if I make this switch, and I finished the mowing part in an hour and 15 minutes. So, I figure the 46/50 will shave some time off that while still allowing me to reach the tight spots that I was able to get into with my neighbor's tractor.
As to those two models, besides the cutting width, the other factors are the engine size (kohler 22hp vs. 24hp) and the deck (stamped vs. fabricated). I have a CC snowblower that has served me well for several years so I am partial to the big yellow SOBs, but I'm also receptive to hearing if someone recommends going a different route (Deere, Toro, etc..). I should say, I am not terribly interested in a zero turn as I don't have much property and I think I'll be using this in the winter for some light plowing as well.
The other X-factor that I've had a hard time finding info on is whether the XT2 is worth the bump in cost for the "premium" parts. Not sure if that's more marketing or actual substantial and superior quality.
Thank you in advance for any and all contributions and happy mowing!
#28
G
GearHead36
G
GearHead36
I DID say, "most", didn't I?That’s not necessarily the case. Look at the John Deere lineup.
Example: https://www.deere.com/en/mowers/lawn-tractors/100-series/s140-lawn-tractor/
#30
T
TobyU
While it is true that Toro does not currently (and hasn't for some time) their own lawn tractor style mowers BUT they do make all of their zero turns and there walk behind mowers.
We're not really talking about the 21 and 22 in walk behind mowers but they do make those too.
I'm talking about the larger walk behind that are typically from at least 30 in up to 60 or maybe even more.
Just like with their zero turns, they have a residential line of these like the time master (which I really just don't like because of maintenance and durability issues) and then they that I believe they called proline for a long time and many of them had the t-bar handle as opposed to pistol grips like many of the other brands had.
On the zero turns, they had the residential line which they used to call TimeCutter and then they had the commercial line which were their z master
They've changed a bunch of the names around now and are using a couple of letters and then a number but they still have the residential style zero turns and the commercial grade ones and they make all of these themselves because those are not actually lawn tractors.
On the John Deere part, they might make everything they sell now but that's only because they stop selling most of the things they were having made for them!.
Over the past 3 decades they have sold a number of string trimmers etc that were made for them by other companies.
The last walk behind mowers they were selling like all of the JS series mowers we're all made by snapper.
A few years ago, probably around 2016 or so they got out of that market and stop carrying any types of smaller walk behind mowers of the John Deere brand at the dealerships.
T
TobyU
Have to be careful how we state the things about Toro and lawn tractors...AYP was gobbled up by Husqvarna
MTD is now Stanley Black and Decker. They build the majority of lawn tractors. Cub Cadet, Craftsman, Troy Bilt, and etc.
Toro is Toro and Exmark. Toro does not make lawn tractors.
Briggs and Stratton makes Snapper, Simplicity, and Ferris. Ferris doesn’t make lawn tractors. Snapper and Simplicity are becoming an endangered species in the lawn tractor world.
John Deere makes all of their lawn tractors and do not subcontract out their manufacturing.
While it is true that Toro does not currently (and hasn't for some time) their own lawn tractor style mowers BUT they do make all of their zero turns and there walk behind mowers.
We're not really talking about the 21 and 22 in walk behind mowers but they do make those too.
I'm talking about the larger walk behind that are typically from at least 30 in up to 60 or maybe even more.
Just like with their zero turns, they have a residential line of these like the time master (which I really just don't like because of maintenance and durability issues) and then they that I believe they called proline for a long time and many of them had the t-bar handle as opposed to pistol grips like many of the other brands had.
On the zero turns, they had the residential line which they used to call TimeCutter and then they had the commercial line which were their z master
They've changed a bunch of the names around now and are using a couple of letters and then a number but they still have the residential style zero turns and the commercial grade ones and they make all of these themselves because those are not actually lawn tractors.
On the John Deere part, they might make everything they sell now but that's only because they stop selling most of the things they were having made for them!.
Over the past 3 decades they have sold a number of string trimmers etc that were made for them by other companies.
The last walk behind mowers they were selling like all of the JS series mowers we're all made by snapper.
A few years ago, probably around 2016 or so they got out of that market and stop carrying any types of smaller walk behind mowers of the John Deere brand at the dealerships.
#31
M
MParr
The lower end Toro residential zero turn mowers aren’t all that great. I had one and I could never get the deck to level.
If I were buying a lawn tractor, I would go with a John Deer, Husqvarna, or Kubota.
M
MParr
Yep. I was focusing on what the OP was looking for.Have to be careful how we state the things about Toro and lawn tractors...
While it is true that Toro does not currently (and hasn't for some time) their own lawn tractor style mowers BUT they do make all of their zero turns and there walk behind mowers.
We're not really talking about the 21 and 22 in walk behind mowers but they do make those too.
I'm talking about the larger walk behind that are typically from at least 30 in up to 60 or maybe even more.
Just like with their zero turns, they have a residential line of these like the time master (which I really just don't like because of maintenance and durability issues) and then they that I believe they called proline for a long time and many of them had the t-bar handle as opposed to pistol grips like many of the other brands had.
On the zero turns, they had the residential line which they used to call TimeCutter and then they had the commercial line which were their z master
They've changed a bunch of the names around now and are using a couple of letters and then a number but they still have the residential style zero turns and the commercial grade ones and they make all of these themselves because those are not actually lawn tractors.
On the John Deere part, they might make everything they sell now but that's only because they stop selling most of the things they were having made for them!.
Over the past 3 decades they have sold a number of string trimmers etc that were made for them by other companies.
The last walk behind mowers they were selling like all of the JS series mowers we're all made by snapper.
A few years ago, probably around 2016 or so they got out of that market and stop carrying any types of smaller walk behind mowers of the John Deere brand at the dealerships.
The lower end Toro residential zero turn mowers aren’t all that great. I had one and I could never get the deck to level.
If I were buying a lawn tractor, I would go with a John Deer, Husqvarna, or Kubota.
#32
LawnoftheDad
LawnoftheDad
Thank you everybody for the information! Some of this arrived after I already made my decision, but I still appreciate it very much.
It seems like for the mechanically capable looking for and buying an older machine may have been the best course of action; however, weighed against the time needed for such a venture plus the requisite ability to recognize a good condition machine, I ended up buying new.
And to that end...drum roll....I ended up going with the Cub Cadet XT2 50" model. I jumped up to the 2nd tier because it is supposed to be made with higher quality parts than the big box XT1s (ball bearings instead of plastic bushings, stronger engine, and better battery). For the size, I went to a store and measured the deck on the 42, 46, and 50 and then walked my yard to see that width against some of the actual tight spaces in my yard. Based on that, a 50" fit everywhere I needed it to, I have alot of open flat grass, and my only garden is around my house so tight maneuvering around smaller, isolated garden beds will not be required. Also, transportation will be done by trailer and not truck, so that was a wash.
I definitely considered the JD, but comparable models were around 2k more, so for better or for worse, I went with the more economic choice (ofcourse, time will tell if that's true....).
Anyway, I plan on being religious about routine maintenance on it and with any luck it will last me for many years. Based on the cost of the lawn service I had been using, I'll begin saving money in 2 years. So, I kinda see anything beyond that as a win (but expecting much more, obviously)
As a follow-up, does anyone swear by any particular care plans? Unfortunately, nowhere around me sells ethanol-free gas, but I was told that it helps to run it dry of 87 at the end of the year and then put in a quart of ethanol-free gas (from a can), run it for a few minutes, and then store it that way. Any other pro tips?
Thanks again, everybody
It seems like for the mechanically capable looking for and buying an older machine may have been the best course of action; however, weighed against the time needed for such a venture plus the requisite ability to recognize a good condition machine, I ended up buying new.
And to that end...drum roll....I ended up going with the Cub Cadet XT2 50" model. I jumped up to the 2nd tier because it is supposed to be made with higher quality parts than the big box XT1s (ball bearings instead of plastic bushings, stronger engine, and better battery). For the size, I went to a store and measured the deck on the 42, 46, and 50 and then walked my yard to see that width against some of the actual tight spaces in my yard. Based on that, a 50" fit everywhere I needed it to, I have alot of open flat grass, and my only garden is around my house so tight maneuvering around smaller, isolated garden beds will not be required. Also, transportation will be done by trailer and not truck, so that was a wash.
I definitely considered the JD, but comparable models were around 2k more, so for better or for worse, I went with the more economic choice (ofcourse, time will tell if that's true....).
Anyway, I plan on being religious about routine maintenance on it and with any luck it will last me for many years. Based on the cost of the lawn service I had been using, I'll begin saving money in 2 years. So, I kinda see anything beyond that as a win (but expecting much more, obviously)
As a follow-up, does anyone swear by any particular care plans? Unfortunately, nowhere around me sells ethanol-free gas, but I was told that it helps to run it dry of 87 at the end of the year and then put in a quart of ethanol-free gas (from a can), run it for a few minutes, and then store it that way. Any other pro tips?
Thanks again, everybody
#33
T
TobyU
Riders are much more forgiving than smaller engine push mowers.
I have found is better to store them full of fresh stabilized fuel than to run them dry as it's better for rubber parts and inlet needle valve in carb.
Just don't use old gas that you've had in your can all season for your last cut add fill up
Go to the station the day you are going to cut and put it away (with a bottle of stabilizer) - pour your has can gas into your car to get an empty can -
put 1oz of stabilizer (I use regular Sta-bil) into your can for each gallon of fuel you are getting, then get your fresh gas.
Go home and fill your mower tank then mow.
Top of tank when done and put it away for of season.
You might charge battery right before you get it out of storage next season.
Some unhook battery or use s maintainer and some take battery inside but I find all that unnecessary.
T
TobyU
Not necessary at all for the gas.Thank you everybody for the information! Some of this arrived after I already made my decision, but I still appreciate it very much.
It seems like for the mechanically capable looking for and buying an older machine may have been the best course of action; however, weighed against the time needed for such a venture plus the requisite ability to recognize a good condition machine, I ended up buying new.
And to that end...drum roll....I ended up going with the Cub Cadet XT2 50" model. I jumped up to the 2nd tier because it is supposed to be made with higher quality parts than the big box XT1s (ball bearings instead of plastic bushings, stronger engine, and better battery). For the size, I went to a store and measured the deck on the 42, 46, and 50 and then walked my yard to see that width against some of the actual tight spaces in my yard. Based on that, a 50" fit everywhere I needed it to, I have alot of open flat grass, and my only garden is around my house so tight maneuvering around smaller, isolated garden beds will not be required. Also, transportation will be done by trailer and not truck, so that was a wash.
I definitely considered the JD, but comparable models were around 2k more, so for better or for worse, I went with the more economic choice (ofcourse, time will tell if that's true....).
Anyway, I plan on being religious about routine maintenance on it and with any luck it will last me for many years. Based on the cost of the lawn service I had been using, I'll begin saving money in 2 years. So, I kinda see anything beyond that as a win (but expecting much more, obviously)
As a follow-up, does anyone swear by any particular care plans? Unfortunately, nowhere around me sells ethanol-free gas, but I was told that it helps to run it dry of 87 at the end of the year and then put in a quart of ethanol-free gas (from a can), run it for a few minutes, and then store it that way. Any other pro tips?
Thanks again, everybody
Riders are much more forgiving than smaller engine push mowers.
I have found is better to store them full of fresh stabilized fuel than to run them dry as it's better for rubber parts and inlet needle valve in carb.
Just don't use old gas that you've had in your can all season for your last cut add fill up
Go to the station the day you are going to cut and put it away (with a bottle of stabilizer) - pour your has can gas into your car to get an empty can -
put 1oz of stabilizer (I use regular Sta-bil) into your can for each gallon of fuel you are getting, then get your fresh gas.
Go home and fill your mower tank then mow.
Top of tank when done and put it away for of season.
You might charge battery right before you get it out of storage next season.
Some unhook battery or use s maintainer and some take battery inside but I find all that unnecessary.
#34
2
2muchgrass2mow
2
2muchgrass2mow
That's precisely what I do, except I do unhook both battery cables.Not necessary at all for the gas.
Riders are much more forgiving than smaller engine push mowers.
I have found is better to store them full of fresh stabilized fuel than to run them dry as it's better for rubber parts and inlet needle valve in carb.
Just don't use old gas that you've had in your can all season for your last cut add fill up
Go to the station the day you are going to cut and put it away (with a bottle of stabilizer) - pour your has can gas into your car to get an empty can -
put 1oz of stabilizer (I use regular Sta-bil) into your can for each gallon of fuel you are getting, then get your fresh gas.
Go home and fill your mower tank then mow.
Top of tank when done and put it away for of season.
You might charge battery right before you get it out of storage next season.
Some unhook battery or use s maintainer and some take battery inside but I find all that unnecessary.
#35
T
TobyU
As far as the battery or anything else goes though besides this physical connection or cleanliness of the connection, it is not any better or safer to take off both battery terminals then to simply take off just one and it doesn't really matter which one you take off.
I know that old habits die hard for most of us but I am all about efficiency, the fastest, best, easiest way of doing most anything I have to do..
I say most and I really want to stress the word "have" in have to do..
See, most things that I have to do I really would rather not. Other things that I'm not in a hurry and trying to be efficient and all this, I do because I want to do them and I enjoy them. I often enjoy the process so it is not a goal too hurry up or accomplish it or whatever but rather I'm enjoying it from start to finish.
Not so much the case with most of the things throughout the day that I have to do.
I'm rather odd though.
I play a whole lot, slack off a whole lot, don't really run on any type of schedule, etc so when I do work or get around to doing the things I have to do, I need to be darn effective and efficient at doing them or I'd never get anything done.
T
TobyU
About the only purpose removing both cables can do is the fact that it gives you a chance to inspect both cables for corrosion and taking them apart and putting them back on is liable too knock some corrosion off if there's any there and make a better connection than if it just sat there forever and if something were to be slightly loose you would catch that and tighten it up next time.That's precisely what I do, except I do unhook both battery cables.
As far as the battery or anything else goes though besides this physical connection or cleanliness of the connection, it is not any better or safer to take off both battery terminals then to simply take off just one and it doesn't really matter which one you take off.
I know that old habits die hard for most of us but I am all about efficiency, the fastest, best, easiest way of doing most anything I have to do..
I say most and I really want to stress the word "have" in have to do..
See, most things that I have to do I really would rather not. Other things that I'm not in a hurry and trying to be efficient and all this, I do because I want to do them and I enjoy them. I often enjoy the process so it is not a goal too hurry up or accomplish it or whatever but rather I'm enjoying it from start to finish.
Not so much the case with most of the things throughout the day that I have to do.
I'm rather odd though.
I play a whole lot, slack off a whole lot, don't really run on any type of schedule, etc so when I do work or get around to doing the things I have to do, I need to be darn effective and efficient at doing them or I'd never get anything done.
#36
T
TobyU
They also seem to have some of the highest blade speed I've seen for residential mowers or maybe it's just deck design but they have a lot of vacuum and noise and do a very good job of being powerful and cutting even thick overgrown grass at good speeds.
NONE of these units are as durable as I wish they were and I have some major complaints about these entry level hydros they put in stuff that just barely adequate for the job.
Just like the k46 they put in your 42 and even 48-in riding mowers.
If you'll recall over the past 15 or 20 years with the hydros on zero turns, they started out calling them something like a 2100 or 2200 and then they started putting an ezt in front of them or making it completely different model.
And then you had basically the 21/22s and you had a 2400.. if I'm remembering correctly.
Then you had the 2800 which was about as good as it would get on consumer grade stuff.
Then they had the 3100 which was about the biggest you could get on a consumer grade machine and in just a few years they started calling that entry level commercial but it still has the smaller diameter output shaft and rated for far less torque and probably weight.
Then, they started making it a 2,800/3100.?? Which one is it folks?
It's all just marketing and it's kind of deceptive.
Just because they may put a transmission into certain entry commercial marketed machines doesn't mean that transmission is commercial grade or quality or size.
3400 is what I consider to be the first true commercial size transmission and it has the larger output shaft and is far beefier.
On a new mower I would gladly pay five or $600 more to get these larger units for the peace of mind that I actually could use the machine 15 to 20 plus years without having a hydro get weak or having to replace one with the 2800/3100 or smaller.
We've been through some real cycles in outdoor power equipment where they were trying to hide what kind of transmissions they have and then others were clearly displaying it on the features list on the unit on display on the floor.
I remember the larger snappers were doing a good job of this but then again they were commercial machines anyways and had good transmissions.
I'm sure they had some other creative wording for their smaller residential ones with the not so durable transmissions to make them sound good too.
T
TobyU
Toro actually does one of the better jobs of the residential grade ZTRs out there.Yep. I was focusing on what the OP was looking for.
The lower end Toro residential zero turn mowers aren’t all that great. I had one and I could never get the deck to level.
If I were buying a lawn tractor, I would go with a John Deer, Husqvarna, or Kubota.
They also seem to have some of the highest blade speed I've seen for residential mowers or maybe it's just deck design but they have a lot of vacuum and noise and do a very good job of being powerful and cutting even thick overgrown grass at good speeds.
NONE of these units are as durable as I wish they were and I have some major complaints about these entry level hydros they put in stuff that just barely adequate for the job.
Just like the k46 they put in your 42 and even 48-in riding mowers.
If you'll recall over the past 15 or 20 years with the hydros on zero turns, they started out calling them something like a 2100 or 2200 and then they started putting an ezt in front of them or making it completely different model.
And then you had basically the 21/22s and you had a 2400.. if I'm remembering correctly.
Then you had the 2800 which was about as good as it would get on consumer grade stuff.
Then they had the 3100 which was about the biggest you could get on a consumer grade machine and in just a few years they started calling that entry level commercial but it still has the smaller diameter output shaft and rated for far less torque and probably weight.
Then, they started making it a 2,800/3100.?? Which one is it folks?
It's all just marketing and it's kind of deceptive.
Just because they may put a transmission into certain entry commercial marketed machines doesn't mean that transmission is commercial grade or quality or size.
3400 is what I consider to be the first true commercial size transmission and it has the larger output shaft and is far beefier.
On a new mower I would gladly pay five or $600 more to get these larger units for the peace of mind that I actually could use the machine 15 to 20 plus years without having a hydro get weak or having to replace one with the 2800/3100 or smaller.
We've been through some real cycles in outdoor power equipment where they were trying to hide what kind of transmissions they have and then others were clearly displaying it on the features list on the unit on display on the floor.
I remember the larger snappers were doing a good job of this but then again they were commercial machines anyways and had good transmissions.
I'm sure they had some other creative wording for their smaller residential ones with the not so durable transmissions to make them sound good too.
#37
M
MParr
M
MParr
The first Toro that I had was the MX5050 with the EZT2200 transmissions. It was a decent mower except for the deck leveling setup. One adjuster on the front and one on the left side. I never could get the thing to level. I moved up the the Timecutter HD54 ZX5400. It had ZT3100 hydros. The deck was held by four chains. It was very easy to level. It cut great. However, it beat me to death.Toro actually does one of the better jobs of the residential grade ZTRs out there.
They also seem to have some of the highest blade speed I've seen for residential mowers or maybe it's just deck design but they have a lot of vacuum and noise and do a very good job of being powerful and cutting even thick overgrown grass at good speeds.
NONE of these units are as durable as I wish they were and I have some major complaints about these entry level hydros they put in stuff that just barely adequate for the job.
Just like the k46 they put in your 42 and even 48-in riding mowers.
If you'll recall over the past 15 or 20 years with the hydros on zero turns, they started out calling them something like a 2100 or 2200 and then they started putting an ezt in front of them or making it completely different model.
And then you had basically the 21/22s and you had a 2400.. if I'm remembering correctly.
Then you had the 2800 which was about as good as it would get on consumer grade stuff.
Then they had the 3100 which was about the biggest you could get on a consumer grade machine and in just a few years they started calling that entry level commercial but it still has the smaller diameter output shaft and rated for far less torque and probably weight.
Then, they started making it a 2,800/3100.?? Which one is it folks?
It's all just marketing and it's kind of deceptive.
Just because they may put a transmission into certain entry commercial marketed machines doesn't mean that transmission is commercial grade or quality or size.
3400 is what I consider to be the first true commercial size transmission and it has the larger output shaft and is far beefier.
On a new mower I would gladly pay five or $600 more to get these larger units for the peace of mind that I actually could use the machine 15 to 20 plus years without having a hydro get weak or having to replace one with the 2800/3100 or smaller.
We've been through some real cycles in outdoor power equipment where they were trying to hide what kind of transmissions they have and then others were clearly displaying it on the features list on the unit on display on the floor.
I remember the larger snappers were doing a good job of this but then again they were commercial machines anyways and had good transmissions.
I'm sure they had some other creative wording for their smaller residential ones with the not so durable transmissions to make them sound good too.
#38
2
2muchgrass2mow
2
2muchgrass2mow
Duly noted, Toby . . .About the only purpose removing both cables can do is the fact that it gives you a chance to inspect both cables for corrosion and taking them apart and putting them back on is liable too knock some corrosion off if there's any there and make a better connection than if it just sat there forever and if something were to be slightly loose you would catch that and tighten it up next time.
As far as the battery or anything else goes though besides this physical connection or cleanliness of the connection, it is not any better or safer to take off both battery terminals then to simply take off just one and it doesn't really matter which one you take off.
I know that old habits die hard for most of us but I am all about efficiency, the fastest, best, easiest way of doing most anything I have to do..
I say most and I really want to stress the word "have" in have to do..
See, most things that I have to do I really would rather not. Other things that I'm not in a hurry and trying to be efficient and all this, I do because I want to do them and I enjoy them. I often enjoy the process so it is not a goal too hurry up or accomplish it or whatever but rather I'm enjoying it from start to finish.
Not so much the case with most of the things throughout the day that I have to do.
I'm rather odd though.
I play a whole lot, slack off a whole lot, don't really run on any type of schedule, etc so when I do work or get around to doing the things I have to do, I need to be darn effective and efficient at doing them or I'd never get anything done.